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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:53 am 
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^^Bump to answer most recent question?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:28 pm 
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Location: Bellflower, CA
Adding 10% extra should do it, but I think I'd add a little more, just to be on the safe side...

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 5:06 pm 
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Gayle (or anyone else who's built this),

Is there any way you can tell me exactly what the finished height of the Flying Saucer should be? (Minus steering wheel and windshield, just looking for the height of the hull with the decking in place per the plans). I'm trying to figure out if it's possible to build it in my basement, I have a walk-out with a 35" wide door.

Thanks!

Matt


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 9:24 am 
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Matt, the hull depth of the Flying Saucer is just under 2'-6" per the plans.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 2:55 am 
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That's what I thought, just wanted to make sure it wouldn't be any wider than 30". If that's the case I can easily get it through the door of my basement but if it's a few inches taller I wouldn't be able to, hence my concern. The last thing I want to do is build it and have a really expensive boat-shaped couch in my house!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:43 am 
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Hopefully taking the first step toward the Glen-L today. Well, not the first step because I have a gift card, a couple books, and plans, but I'd consider it one of the first major steps. About a quarter mile away from me I found a boat that someone listed on craigslist, it's a 1978 Chrysler 13' fiberglass closed-bow runabout with a 35hp Chrysler engine on it. It runs although it needs a tune-up (checking compression before I buy!) and the boat itself is lakeworthy (no leaks) and the trailer is roadworthy. It needs new seats and a windshield...The seats are cheap and easy to make and the windshield isn't even really needed and can also be made on the cheap if need be. When it comes time I can salvage the motor, steering, controls, and trailer from this boat along with the lighting, cleats, etc. If I get a decent windshield for it I can salvage that too as the contours of the boat are similar. It's listed for $400 OBO and if I give him the $290 I have I'll be totally cleaned out...Cross your fingers for me!

I plan on tinkering on the engine over the winter to get it to run right and register and use the boat next year while I'm building mine. It'll be difficult but I'll make sure I find time to work on mine while I'm enjoying this other one. I'm getting ahead of myself though, check in for updates and pictures later if necessary...


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:43 am 
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Location: Pontiac, Michigan
Matt, Check out this article by Art Atkinson. He was concerned about getting his squirt out of his basement so he used the "Stem" and made a little mock up for his squirt build. It was the size of the proposed boat and light enough to carry.. We were able to see if it would get out of the space that he had to work with.

http://artatkinson.blogspot.com/2009/12 ... ut-of.html

It worked out great... we carryed his finished boat up the stairway and over the top of his wifes granite kitchen island out into the garage.

I hope this helps.

Ted Gauthier -Zip

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:29 am 
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Ted,

Thanks for the link. I'll make some time and read it soon.

In other news I did go ahead and buy that boat, for $290. It is all fiberglass besides the backing on the dash and transom. It's all solid besides that transom backing plate so I need to replace that with some pressure treated plywood and call that good along with making some back-to-back seats out of the same. Can't wait to just get out on the water. Pics:

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324 ... 121634.jpg

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t324 ... 21634a.jpg


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:14 am 
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Sounds like this was a solid investment. I just need to flush the fuel line and screen out, change the gear case oil (which was included), change the spark plugs (they're almost new, but it's worth the few bucks), and figure out why only one cylinder has spark. The boat floats and looks good doing it :).


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 11:03 am 
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End-of-season update on the Chrysler boat,

At the tail end of the season I managed to get the 35 horse Chrysler running quite well. We'll see if it will continue to run in the spring next year but it sounded pretty solid. If I just lube up and adjust the shifter cables it should all be in pretty good shape.

All I need to make the repairs to the transom and seats is the lumber, fasteners, and marine grade vinyl. I already got 4 sheets of 3" high density foam for the seats. If they come out well enough I may use them for the Flying Saucer instead of two separate cockpits. My idea is to make them out of 5/4 cedar decking so that they are light, strong, and won't break down over time. Then I'll make the cushions easily removable for cleaning, maybe sew some hook-and-loop velcro fasteners or something in place.

I'll be alternating light and dark wood stain for the bench planking as well so it should fit the theme of the rest of the boat.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 3:08 pm 
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Hey all,

I had a quick question about buying hardwood for the Flying Saucer. I am planning on stretching it the full 10%, so I need to know what dimensions (according to the bill of materials) I need to stretch out ten percent.

I am going through the BOM shown here:

http://www.glen-l.com/designs/outboard/ ... r-bom.html

And I need to know what the lengths for the chines, sheer, battens, keel, etc should be (the ones that need to be changed). I've got a few hundred bucks so I am hoping to be able to afford the framing, keel, breasthook, maybe chines? We'll see where it'll get me. Looking forward to your replies, I plan on buying the lumber to get started on this project within the next few weeks!

I'll be using 6mm Meranti which is $62 per sheet (cheaper than AB Fir marine ply), and Phillipine Mahogany, which is $5.55 per board foot for 4/4. WAY cheaper than Sitka spruce, which is $12.00 per board foot 4/4.

Matt


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 3:25 pm 
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Location: Fingerlakes and Marthas Vineyard
Matt,I stretched my TNT and all I did was check the plans for the distance between the frames and added 10%. So if the distance from #1 to#2 is 30",add 3" and so on.I was even able to add to the stem.The TNT has 4 sections to it so it worked out to an extra foot.
Worked out great for me. :)

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 10:24 am 
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So,

Anyone else have any suggestions for it as well? Looking forward to this for sure, starting to order parts in the coming couple of weeks!


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 5:41 pm 
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I'm happy to report I made the first materials purchase that will be used on the boat in the form of a LED stern light. It's a 24" tall LED unit with a chrome base and it's a stowaway style light that can be removed when not in use. Price of that was about $40, along with the Boatbuilding with Plywood book at $40 used and plans at about $90 when they were purchased for me last year.

I'm doing some more research on what kind of wood to use for framing and planking, Retroman (Jim) has been a big help in the last couple days. If anyone else has suggestions on what wood to use and why that'd be very helpful. I am working on a very tight budget but also can't afford to do it twice so I can definitely justify spending more up front that way.

Thanks again.

Matt


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 6:44 am 
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The LED stern light is on its way and will be here tomorrow. If the base is the same between that and what is already on the Chrysler then I'll just save the brand new base for a single installation on the Glen-L and use the mast and light on the Chrysler in the interim.

I have all the board feet calculated for the stretched 10% flying saucer and money set aside for the transom and all frames, battens, chines, etc.--Everything besides the planking, decking, and spray rails.

In terms of the Chrysler project, we got the boat out of the elements and into the shop that I'll be building the Glen-L in, and made the back-to-back seats. I just need to put some Thompson's Water Seal on them and then they will be ready for final mounting into the boat. Given that they were made out of half scrap material and total investment was about $50, I'm happy with how they came out.

Image

Image

Now all that remains is cleaning the ignition system, staining the seats, replacing the fuel lines and transom board, and cleaning the hull a bit with some simple green. Sounds like quite a bit but I'm willing to bet my buddy and I can get it done in a couple weeks. Then it's on to the Glen-L :).


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