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HP alone is useless when dealing with a jet drive. Not to mention, PWC builders seem to make the numbers up to suit their advertising needs.
20', and all that weight with a PWC drive? Well, you won't need a speedometer! A calendar, yes, a speedometer, not so much. That hull would be decent with a high-mass drive, like the hamilton, or the old jacuzzi YJ drive, but a small pump would be a disappointment.
Shallows and a piece-of-crap berk pump... you are going to get really familiar with feeler-gauges, and impeller shims! Any mixed flow is not something you want to pump ditches with. one tiny little 3/16" pebble can destroy the pump, leaving you needing a new impeller (360.00USD for a cheapo cast imp) and a new wear-ring (90.00USD) One of Duane's polymer rings will save you some damage, but it's still got the potential to cost! A bigger stone usually goes through the impeller, then shatters the back of the blades when it lodges against the bowl vanes. It vibrates like something from an "adult" store... then damages the tail bushing. Those "cool" jet boats you see racing in some ditch in NZ will almost exclusively have Hamilton pumps-not the best for speed, but they would pump a pond full of buckshot 'n beer bottles and keep going.
Jets suck in the low end??? Have you ever even had any jet drive??? HP to HP jets will holeshot any similar prop in a big way. There is a ram-effect to consider, never the less, a jet will produce nearly the same thrust in a dead-stop condition, as they will when the hull is moving at top speed. (and why there are so many commercial heavy transports using jets over props) There is significantly less drag at high speed. Theoretically, a jet pump can produce better fuel economy than a screw. None of the energy is spent slinging water radially, there is no transmission loss, and it's efficiency is not changed by angle of attack. In practice, mass-produced pumps with rough castings, internally leaky pumps, too much intake/not enough intake area, and just plain the wrong pumps, wrong nozzles, make for horrible economy. Proper matching, and setup are a must. It's harder than just bolting a new screw on.
Short life? Depends more on a properly maintained engine than drive line. lifespan=cool/not cold oil changed often, multiple filters, moly rings, and correct clearances. Again, build it right, and it lasts, build it wrong, and do it again.
_________________ Some plan to stroll through Saint Peter's Gates, I plan to go through them at 150mph... backwards... in a screaming ball of flame, with a glimmer belt wrapped around my head, and a NOx button in my hand.
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