Jet Bracket Installed - pics

About using jet ski motors to power small boats

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steve crawford
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Location: K.C. MO.

Post by steve crawford » Mon Jun 04, 2007 9:31 pm

Another pic. of the jet drive. Note the drain hole location , after the ride plate is installed it is impossible to get to. I'll have to slott a piece of tubbing to be able to twist it , like a hydrolic jack handel sort of.

Notice the straks that run the length of the hull. This TNT is no longer a flat bottom boat. It might need a 750. They do bolt up the same way.



Image

More pics.
http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r302 ... rd_photos/

terrymc
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Location: San Jose, CA, USA

Post by terrymc » Fri Jun 08, 2007 7:52 am

Steve,

Question: Have you/are you planning to install the "rev limitor" with you engine fule system, or just plug the carb connections? I haven't decided what to do yet, but leaning toward hooking it up.

TRM

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steve crawford
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Post by steve crawford » Sun Jun 10, 2007 5:49 am

Terry,

I have it mounted in the boat in one of the previous pic.
I used the original bracket which holds the fuel filter also.

Question:
Where did you run you're gas tank vent line?

terrymc
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Location: San Jose, CA, USA

Post by terrymc » Sun Jun 10, 2007 4:38 pm

Steve,

I put an overboard vent through the side of the boat, just aft of my bilge pump discharge. The vent is supposed to only let air into the gas tank, but I wanted it aft of the scoops for the bilge ventilation anyway. Here's a picutre:

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I had a custom built 10 gallon gas tank fabricated - this boat has always been intended as a tender for our big cruiser - and I wanted enough range that I wouldn't always be worried about gas. With this tank, the boat should run 3 hours or so on one tank. With my big tank, I did not use the "reserve" valve and deeper tank supply that came with the donor ski.

I did have fits with the tank connections - NOTHING was the size it needed to be to interface between the ski engine equipment and the gas tank. The tank vent (and the overboard thru-hull) were both 5/8", but the check valve is 5mm. Finding the right fittings (often more than one!) just about drove me up the wall. Here's a picture of the front of the gas tank, including the vent and the return from the rev limitor. I put a tee at the top of the tank vent/return. The horizontal run is the retrun line from the rev limitor. You can also see the check valve (and reducer fittings)

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Like you, I use the original rev limitor bracket (It's on the deck beam, forward and to starboard of the engine). The fuel filter in my donor ski didn't have an element, however, and Kawa wanted $65 (!!) for a new one, so I just went with a NAPA auto parts in-line filter. I'm also seriously considering adding a primer bulb to the fuel line to help get fuel to the engine on a "cold start". One more trip to West Marine...

Peace,

TRM

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M_Holmes
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Post by M_Holmes » Thu Jun 21, 2007 10:32 pm

Hello,

Your boat is coming along nice, Terry. It seems like we have been working at exactly the same pace for the last year, haha. I'm getting really close to being finished with mine too. Here are a couple pics of my pump bracket/engine installation, and overall progress. Most of these
were taken last weekend, one is a little older.

(Hopefully this shows up, it's my first attempt at posting photos here, hehe.)


Image

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I finished the exhaust, hooked up the 'ol garden hose, and fired it up for the first time yesterday. Man, what a thrill to finally be at this stage!

You mentioned that a lot of people report having engine vibration issues. You can add me to that list ;-) Those mounts flex a lot more than i expected. I have the alignment of the couplers super close from an angular/side to side standpoint, but I think they may be a little bit too close together. The vibration really resonates through the entire hull, so I need to get it whipped into shape before I take it out on the water.

I suspect that the rubber insulator is getting pinched between the two coupler halves, and binding up. I want to try increasing the clearance a bit and see if that helps. Do you happen to have the spec for this clearance from the kawasaki service manual?

I'm shooting for having it 100% complete by August 1 (a couple weeks in advance of our big family reunion at Lake Cushman). steering, gas pedal, seat brackets. and that's more or less it. Oh yeah, Still Have to weld the bunk brackets to the trailer, too.


Later,

Matt
Jet Ski Powered Squirt Video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IljNkJjNnw

terrymc
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Post by terrymc » Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:34 am

Matt,

Wow, your boat really is comming along. LOOKS GREAT! It never ceases to amaze me how DIFFERNT people can make the same basic design look - and most all of them look good! I'm going for the '50s Chris look, and yours is definitely early '60's "ski boat"!

Have you gotten the "What year is it?" question yet? I had my hull out at the muffler shop getting the exhaust piping fabricated, and I'll be I got that question 20 times.

To answer your question on the coupler clearance, the Kawa specs are 0.020 inch MAX as the sum of the clearances on both sides of the rubber. They don't give a minimum, so I doubt that's the cause of your vibration.

Looks like you didn't install the rev limiter - true? How did you route your exhaust? is it hose all the way? Also looks like you went a similar direction to me with the steering from the original jet ski. Have you figured out how to hook it up to a steering wheel yet? I have some pics of how I tied to a teleflex "rack" if you are interested.

I'm hoping to start my engine this week. I'll let you know how much vibration I get.

Peace,

TRM

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M_Holmes
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Post by M_Holmes » Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:29 pm

I would most definately like to see your teleflex rack installation. I'm trying to figure this part out right now myself. How many rotations of the wheel do you get from lock to lock with the rack system?

I saw a couple of "jet boat" helms, and they were both 360 degrees of rotation or less. Is this common for a jet boat?

If I try to attach the cable directly to the end of my steering mechanism, (like it was on the jet ski) the max I can hope to attain is 180 degrees from full left to full right. That seems a little bit scary... but I'm not ruling it out just yet ;-)

As far as the vibration goes, I think I discovered the major cause of the problem. I removed the pump from the boat but left the drive coupler / bearing housing bolted in place. This eliminated a great deal of the vibration, and it also eliminated virtually all of my "mystery noises".

The main pair of bearings in the pump that support the shaft and impeller are totally destroyed. I never noticed before, but it's binding up a little bit at random points when you turn the shaft. This would explain why the pump was out of the boat and partially disassembled when I bought it, hehe.


My donor ski wasn't equipped with a rev limiter that I'm aware of. Could be that 440s don't have them and 550s do? or maybe it's a year of manufacture thing. mine was an '85 model JS440.

The exhaust is all hose. I used a car radiator hose with a formed 180 degree bend to redirect the exit of the pipe toward the back. I sifted through the back room at my local NAPA for 1/2 Hour until I found the one I wanted, then threw it down on the counter. haha. I let the engine run for 5 minutes with the flusher on and the hose stayed cool to the touch, so I'm confident that it will hold up OK for a year or two.

I have a video of it starting up, but don't know how to go about posting it anywhere.

Later,
Matt
Jet Ski Powered Squirt Video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IljNkJjNnw

terrymc
Posts: 579
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 11:05 am
Location: San Jose, CA, USA

Post by terrymc » Tue Jun 26, 2007 10:24 am

Matt,

I'm surprized you don't have a rev limiter - it's very easy to over-rev the engine when a ski get's jumped out of the water. Since I don't anticipate "jumping" my Squirt, I considered just eliminating it, but in the end, since I had all the parts, I went ahead with it.

I used a Teleflex "THE RACK" steering system - I'm not sure if they are still in production - they got dropped out of this year's West Marine catalog. I get about 2-1/2 turns, lock-to-lock, with the same 3" span for the jet steering. To connect the cables I welded the ball assembly from the original jet ski handlebar onto the end of the teleflex cable assembly, then used the existing connector on the jet ski steering cable:

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Then I built two clamps from a split 2x2, drilled just smaller than the fixed parts of the two cables. I put a couple of 1/4-20 stainless bolts through the clamps, potted in Marine-Tex, and set them in between the coaming and sheer. this is the best picture I have - isn't very good, but I think you can get the idea:

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Took a lot of "adjusting" but it seems to work just fine.

I had a very similar experience on the exhaust system. Mine has some pipe that you can see in some of the pictures, but getting the right hose pieces really was a hoot - like you said, about an hour just lookign at the stock.

Peace,

TRM

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steve crawford
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Post by steve crawford » Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:56 pm

Matt,
I wouldn't want to pull that beautiful boat up on that trailer either
without some side suports keeping it off the fenders.

I was wondering which Kawasaki motor it was with that different spark arrester mounted on top of the head. A 440 explaines it.

AS far as a rev-limiter go to Kawasakie.com to their parts scematics.
You can cross reference which parts interchange with what. Has great pics. of parts and numbers and all the years and models. You can see if that ski originally had a rev-limiter.That web sit is excelent.

It is amazing the different personalities into these jet-powered little KICK A-- boats. After my little time on the water ,these are WAY COOLER than those -----other outboards those prop nuts use--HA'HA.

These take some real thought and research (that is half the fun).
Boat buzzing arround with no moter hanging off the back' MAN'.

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