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Decision time for a Squirt with Jet

Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 6:46 pm
by BulldogBoater
I have frames and chines complete and installed on a lengthened Squirt. I am reversing the angle of the transom and making it convex instead of flat.

I have purchased a 93 Seadoo SP and will be installing the engine. I would prefer the pump not to stick out past the transom but it could some because I plan on installing a "swim platform" that the outlet could go under.

Question is:

Should I design the framing around the part of the jet ski hull that I will be grafting into the Squirt hull? OR

Should I build the hull complete and then cut away the area where the grafted SeaDoo hull will go and then install any needed support?

Any advice would be appreciated.


Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:02 pm
by leakcheck

I once had a squirt frame kit with the intentions of making it a jetboat...I have since moved to the dynojet or the Bingo idea still with jet...

But..when I had the squirt, what I was GOING to do is build the boat and then graft the parts from the donor jet ski onto the existing hull..cutting away what I did not need and adding whatever would be required for support.

Terry will probably jump in here, as well as other guys that have actually done the jets and let you know how they managed..if you don't hear from them shortly PM them and they will let you know, bunch of great guys.

I have the Yamaha 701 and the rreverse bucket ready..just have to get through my honey-do list and start A BOAT !


my experience

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 6:43 am
by slowcarguy
I'm building my ski king with a berkeley jet and after I finished the frame I roughed out the area for the intake taking into account the thickness of the 2 layers of bottom ply. I then framed in the intake and made sure to bolt it to the keel andaffix it to the transom. After that I faired it all and layed down my ply bottom. I considered just building the bottom and cutting out what I needed but it's harder to build up that area once it's all together.

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 7:59 am
by marksa1458
Build the hull complete first and then "graft" the jet ski part in. You should mock the entire setup in before final installation. Once you have everything aligned, bolt the grafted peice in, epoxy both sides with large fillets. When you coat the hull with Epoxy & Cloth overlap your fillets and lay the cloth directly on to the grafted peice. Once sanded and painted, it will be impossible to distinguish between the grafted peice and hull.

see pictures here: and here

I think you will have good luck with the Seadoo setup and I don't think anyone on this forum has used a Seadoo yet. Please take lots of pictures...

You will probably have some of the pump hanging out of the back and this is not necessarily undesirable

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 5:23 pm
by BulldogBoater

Thanks for the advice. I had already stumbled across your website in researching this build.

I picked the SeaDoo because it was the best PWC I could find in my budget - only 10 hours on rebuild, great shape, etc. It almost seems a shame to cut it up - but I'm going to anyway.

I'll post some pics as I go but I work slow. I travel with my real job and can only work on it every other weekend.

Thanks again that's some very nice work on your Dynojet


Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 12:25 pm
by terrymc

I haven't posted for quite a while, but Boat-Bill-der kicked me in the head yesterday, so here's my 2 cents worth.


I know this is 180 degrees different advice than you got from Mark, but the reason I'm so emphatic is that he is building a DynoJet stich&glue boat. You are building a Squirt, and there is a bunch of structure "in the way" in a Squirt that is just not there in the DynoJet. You may need to make mods to Frame #1, you will have to remove the keel of the boat, as your jet intake is right were this is. Ditto the transom knee. I wouldn't quibble with Mark on the boat he is building...I don't think he is right for a Squirt.

I didn't graft in any jet ski components into my hull, but just FYI here's what my structure in the engine bay looked like:


And here's the jet inlet.


I think you will have to have the jet behind the transom, but putting it under a "swim platform" is a good idea.

PM me if you have any specific questions.



Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:44 am
by Caber-Feidh
You want to keep as much pump out the back as possible.

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 3:18 pm
by BulldogBoater
You want to keep as much pump out the back as possible.
Why is it important to keep as much out back as possible?

It looks better - to me - to tuck as much as possible. But if it adversely affects the handling, it can hand out back as much as it needs to.

Terry, that's good looking work. Fortunately, I have not gotten to far that I cannot change my course of action. I have a lot of measuring to do and templates to make next week!


Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 2:25 pm
by Caber-Feidh
Handling will be better with the C(t) moved as far away from the point of balance as possible. Normally pumps have a slight downward angle, moving it aftward will put the nozzle closer to (in) the water. Ideally the center-line of the nozzle would be parallel to the bottom surface of the hull. Last, but not least, it moves the weight as far rearward as possible, reducing the wet area at speed.

Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:22 pm
by terrymc

My installation is Kawasaki, and I don't know the total drive train length in your Sea-do, but I seriouly doubt you will have any choice except to let the jet hang out the back. My boat is lengthened to 11'-4" and there is just enough space for me to lift the engine out behind the seat.

The Squirt IS a SMALL boat!