harpoonhedd in Chincoteague

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harpoonhedd
Posts: 17
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 6:13 pm

harpoonhedd in Chincoteague

Post by harpoonhedd » Sat Mar 26, 2011 7:02 pm

new member from Chincoteague Virginia...have been looking at plans for a 18-20 foot carolina style skiff (dory)...have been a cabinet maker and carpenter for 40 years...also have worked on many boats both power and sail doing repairs and likewise...I have been on the water all my life enjoying surfing,sailing and related ...

I would like to build a boat that resembles the old style work boats from this area( Maryland to the Carolinas)...I have some nice douglas fir available...also a good quality mahogany 1/2" plywood...I will coat the hull w/ fiberglass(west system)the plans I found here fit that target well...looking forward to reading the post's here learning from others...I am sure there is a wealth of information available here!

I really like the "little hunk" #560 ...maybe in a 20 foot version...possibly pull in the rear section a bit...
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ted...artist/woodworker
chincoteague island,virginia

http://harpoonheddgallery.shutterfly.com/

Oyster
Posts: 4440
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:10 pm
Location: North Carolina

Re: harpoonhedd in Chincoteague

Post by Oyster » Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:49 am

In regards to pulling in the rear, the issue in well boats is that if you wish to own a planing boat, you cannot afford to loose additional bottom area aft.

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kens
Posts: 4763
Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 5:25 pm
Location: Coastal Georgia

Re: harpoonhedd in Chincoteague

Post by kens » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:25 am

I like the dory/skiffs as well. Sweet Caroline is my favorite
Oak is over rated, everything about it takes extra time; then it warps, splits or checks !!! :roll:

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harpoonhedd
Posts: 17
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 6:13 pm

Re: harpoonhedd in Chincoteague

Post by harpoonhedd » Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:22 am

thanks for the response, I really appreciate it...I hear you about losing planing surface...I was thinking of only bringing in about 6 inches on the side...the same as the amount the gunwales project past the waterline...I am not sure whether or not I will use the motor well or just transom mount the outboard(probably a 25hp)...I have never been around a well mount, and dont know anything about that configuration...

I am basically trying to recreate a boat similar to the workboats I have been on( and worked and fished on) back when I lived on Ocracoke Island(NC) ...if you have ever seen one ...all white hulls with red bottom paint...the tradition back then(and now still)...very similar to the "little hunk" also other work boat plans I have seen on the net...I have been advised that a "slight" return would be advisable to assist w/ following seas and smoother turns...less skaty.....but would like to hear any remarks you have about that...

http://www.oldwharf.com/ow_wide_guide.html

http://www.oldwharf.com/ow_workskiffs.html

I plan on using the basic 2X4 frame risers to maximize on cockpit area...but will add gussets under the gunwales to faccilatate a wider washboard...also the angle on the last three or four risers would be reduced (in progression rear to mid) from about a 10-12 inch pitch to only 6...to do as you said max the amount of planing surface...

also any thoughts on running a simple 2X3" strip directly in line w/ the keelson??( 3" up)full length of the boat(flat bottom) to aid in pointing up...many of the old school waterman way back all swore by this...this would be added after fiberglassing and be something like a rub rail that could be replaced easily after wear...they also say that this would be a point of contact rather than directly rubbing the flat botton ...

I understand the plans from Glen dont require any "lofting" ...which would be a good starting point fo me too, giving me something I can cut out and apply to some masonite etc to make templates......also they said that the lengths can be modified easily...thanks again for any thoughts...t
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ted...artist/woodworker
chincoteague island,virginia

http://harpoonheddgallery.shutterfly.com/

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