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Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 7:23 am
by speedracer
Josh,
Your cutwater looks great. I especially like the way in which you’ve incorporated the bow eye into it. I was thinking of getting my cutwater made for my Monaco but I understand the guy doesn’t use a bow eye. As such, I am considering making the cutwater myself. I also like to learn new stuff and a challenge. My steel welding skills are good but never tried SS or mig welding. I assume I would need a different welder adn not sure about cutting SS.

I’ve read your details on welder setting, wire size, etc. Do you have suggestions on what I need for SS cutting and welding? Such as machine makes, models, etc.

Sure appreciate your advice and look forward to following your build.

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 8:22 am
by BayouBengal
Speedracer, We used this jigsaw blade https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X4TZHW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1for cutting the 18 guage SS sheeting used to make the cutwater. The blade goes through the stainless without much problem but begins to get extremely hot after about 10 to 12 inches of cutting; so, the solution was one of us would run the jigsaw while the other followed along with the air hose spraying air across the blade.

Also, I had to buy a 4 x 10 sheet of 316 SS to make the cutwater. I can't promise you this because I know that my brother used some of what was leftover to make a meat smoker, but I probably have enough for you to make your cutwater if you'd like to have it. Let me know if you want it and I'll check to see if I have enough.

Josh, Great cutwater! I also like how you accommodated your bow eye.

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 6:07 pm
by joshuab
I used a jigsaw to cut my sheet stainless as well, the more tpi (teeth per inch) the better, i used 36 tpi and it cut like butter, same issue as mentioned above, i would cut abount an inch then cool the blade in water then cut another inch, it still cut fast, once the blade starts glowing its done, pitch it and grab another.

If i were to guess mike won't weld a bow eye to a cutwater because alot of stress/liability if one broke off and you lost your boat going down the freeway, that is why i welded mine to the cutwater but kept the allthread as well, this way the boweye is still being used "as designed" and takes the weight not the weld attach point or cutwater, just a guess i could be wrong.

P.s. i had never welded stainless with a wire feed prior to this cutwater, easy as pie, almost identical to mild steel, seemed easier than mild steel to be honest.

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 7:47 pm
by speedracer
Thanks guys. I’ve been researching welders and welding methods for stainless. Seems pretty straight forward. I use a Lincoln wire fed machine now for regular steel. Works much better than a stick welder as long as the material is relatively light gauge. Too bad, it just isn’t the model that can use the shielding gas. I’ve just about decided to do the cutwater myself – any excuse to buy another tool, right?

BayouBengal – I would certainly take you up on your offer for the left over SS. Size it up and let me know. I assume I will use the same material for the SS pieces on the two aft corners (not sure if those have a nautical name). Anyway, if you have enough, I’ll be glad to come get it. Give me an excuse to see your build as well. Please let me know.

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 9:39 pm
by joshuab
So here is the result so far after sanding with 180 Grit, in the bottom picture you can see the 100% penetration of weld on the backside of the cutwater, the middle picture kind of gives you an idea of how the all thread protrudes through the cutwater, and the final top picture shows the cutwater mounted back to the bow of my zip, I still have plenty of sand work to do but it's starting to take shape and I'm very happy with the overall look.

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 6:45 am
by BayouBengal
Anyway, if you have enough, I’ll be glad to come get it.

Speedracer, What's left of the sheet is a piece 53" x 48" inchers. If that's long enough for you, you're welcome to it.
If i were to guess mike won't weld a bow eye to a cutwater because alot of stress/liability if one broke off and you lost your boat going down the freeway, that is why i welded mine to the cutwater but kept the allthread as well, this way the boweye is still being used "as designed" and takes the weight not the weld attach point or cutwater, just a guess i could be wrong.

Josh, the way he was describing it to me was that he had a bad experience with making a cutwater for someone's boat with a bow eye and he didn't want anything to do with them. My bow eye was already fastened to the boat and just needed a slot cut in the cutwater to accommodate it. His response was, he'd make the cutwater, but I'd have to cut the slot in it.

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 12:53 pm
by PeterG
Josh that welding looks great. The cutwater looks awesome, the bow eye looks like it's an integral part.

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2017 6:17 pm
by joshuab
Well today marks three years i have been building my Zip, i started july 14th 2014, here is a year end recap video talking about my experience building a boat complete with plenty of Glen-L plugs along the way.......

https://youtu.be/QGW849AJvAs

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 3:53 pm
by joshuab
Here are some Zip cutwater update pics, port, starboard and an under pic, still have plenty of sand work and smoothing to do especially around the bow eye but progress is being made. 8) slowly working through grits. I threw a quick polish on it to locate areas that need more attention.

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 7:48 pm
by vupilot
As your youtube video said, you are saving some good money having the skills to do that yourself! Coming along extremely nicely.

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 10:46 pm
by joshuab
Thanks everyone for the compliments, here is another zip cutwater update, after coming to the realization that to achieve the best fit on my cutwater i must actually screw it to the hull. Although painful, the fit is much better than before, i did double my screw holes from 4" spacing to 2" and like chris suggested i am adding 1 1/4" mahogany backing blocks 1/2" thick behind each screw for a more solid bite instead of just hull ply, i will use #6 X 5/8" screws to attach. Making progress, i will use 3M 4200 on every screw during final assembly to guarantee it is sealed/protected, if my waterline is accurate all cutwater screws will be above water anyhow. :shock: :shock: :shock: whats to worry about?....its only 30 more holes in my boat :lol:

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 5:50 am
by vupilot
I thought you would be able to get away with leaving the bottom two rows screw-less and not have any screws below the water-line. Bummer. Im sure it pulls it in tight with the screws though. I dont think youll have any problems at all though. Let me know in 30 years ok? :D

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 12:35 pm
by joshuab
vupilot wrote:Let me know in 30 years ok? :D


I am probably just being paranoid but have avoided hull penetrations like the plague. :lol:

Today i glued and screwed the last of the subdeck down never to be removed again. Cutwater work continues and soon deck planking, this boat just might see water yet. 8)

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 4:34 am
by BayouBengal
Josh, Just got around to watching your three year review. I've not watched all your videos, but from what I've seen; wow, what a great resource for anyone thinking about building a boat. Great work!

Re: New member from oregon

Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 6:50 pm
by mrintense
The deck really makes a huge difference on these boats. What are your plans for the cover boards?