Hello from Colorado

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hpcrank
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2016 1:15 pm

Hello from Colorado

Postby hpcrank » Mon Nov 28, 2016 1:58 pm

Greetings from Cascade. Colorado

I am currently renovating a 1981 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer with a 330 hp, 454 Chevy Mercruiser I/O. Sorry, it is plastic but it does have a good amount of wood on and in it.

Years ago I restored a 14' walk thru wood runabout with a rebuilt 35 hp. Johnson OBM. Long story but I no longer have it. I used to pull this runabout behind my 22' 1941 American Travel trailer (alum. over wood framing) and pulled the boat and trailer with my 1971 Pontiac 8 pass. Grand Safari station wagon with the 345 hp. 455 engine. I/we still have the car and the trailer so we need a wood runabout to complete our train.

Once I complete the Sea Ray (Spring of 2017) I intend to build a Squirt 10' runabout with a 1940's or 1950's outboard to pull behind the travel trailer on the many occasions that we will go camping and won't be using the sea ray. This is my motivation in joining this forum. It is said that an Engineer knows almost everything about almost nothing where as an Architect knows almost nothing about almost everything. As a retired Architect I find myself in the second group. One thing I am sure of is what I do not know so I will have many questions as I research and plan my build.

Looking forward to interacting with the many skilled and knowledgeable folks on this forum.

Hpcrank

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Roberta
Posts: 5882
Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: East Troy, Wisconsin

Re: Hello from Colorado

Postby Roberta » Mon Nov 28, 2016 2:46 pm

Welcome aboard!! Feel free to ask questions and post pics. We love all kinds of boats.

Roberta :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

hpcrank
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2016 1:15 pm

Re: Hello from Colorado

Postby hpcrank » Mon Nov 28, 2016 5:27 pm

Roberta

Thank you. I am going to search the forum as I want to know how to do the bright work. After completely fiber glassing mahogany plywood how do you get to the gleaming wood finish? I am a proficient auto-body and paint fellow but only a rough carpenter so need some coaching.

From high school wood working class I am familiar with multiple coats of varnish with sanding in between coats. On my last car paint project I did a base coat-clear coat paint job. I sanded the clear with 1000 grit wet and dry then 1200, then 1500, then 2000 , then 2500 and then 3000 then I buffed with medium grit buffing compound, then fine then polishing compound and then swirl remover so you can see I am a glutton for punishment!

I need to learn the most painful way to achieve the best results on my wood boat finish!

Thanks!
Hpcrank

joshuab
Posts: 396
Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2015 4:10 pm
Location: southern oregon coast
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Re: Hello from Colorado

Postby joshuab » Mon Nov 28, 2016 10:19 pm

Welcome, i am in the process of building a Zip, currently two and a half years worth, I'm not far from starting on the top deck and have planned from the start to protect/finish the bright sides and top deck with automotive clearcoat, there have been a few other builders that have done this and it seems to me to be a perfect finish for a trailered boat, some may disagree but i like the idea of a cut and buff every 10 years vs. Sanding and re-varnishing, as you know auto clear produces an incredible shine, is low maintenance and most importantly UV stable (the reason for covering epoxy) perhaps others with more building experience will have reasons to avoid auto clear but I'm stubborn and have gone all in on my clearcoat plan not to mention there have been several occasions on my build that i have deviated from "common practice" time will tell if this is a good idea but as they say "it looks good on paper" alot of builders use varnish (traditional finish) while others use a two part polyurethane clear (tough and relatively easy to apply) hope i have not confused you further.........josh
I cut twice and it's still too short :mrgreen:

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Roberta
Posts: 5882
Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:23 pm
Location: East Troy, Wisconsin

Re: Hello from Colorado

Postby Roberta » Tue Nov 29, 2016 5:59 am

I have used both the varnish and Two-Part Poly- U with great results. Both require lots of sanding and prep with sanding between the coats. Poly-U works best over the epoxy base. Varnish (especially Epifanes) should be applied over a good wood sealer like Pettits. Staining should be the first thing done after the surface is smooth and flat. Then the subsequent coats are applied. Follow directions from the MFG.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

hpcrank
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2016 1:15 pm

Re: Hello from Colorado

Postby hpcrank » Tue Nov 29, 2016 7:58 am

joshuab wrote:Welcome, i am in the process of building a Zip, currently two and a half years worth, I'm not far from starting on the top deck and have planned from the start to protect/finish the bright sides and top deck with automotive clearcoat, there have been a few other builders that have done this and it seems to me to be a perfect finish for a trailered boat, some may disagree but i like the idea of a cut and buff every 10 years vs. Sanding and re-varnishing, as you know auto clear produces an incredible shine, is low maintenance and most importantly UV stable (the reason for covering epoxy) perhaps others with more building experience will have reasons to avoid auto clear but I'm stubborn and have gone all in on my clear coat plan not to mention there have been several occasions on my build that i have deviated from "common practice" time will tell if this is a good idea but as they say "it looks good on paper" alot of builders use varnish (traditional finish) while others use a two part polyurethane clear (tough and relatively easy to apply) hope i have not confused you further.........josh


Josh

Thanks for your input (I think) now you have provided me with the first of many choices I will have to make in this adventure.

As I understand it the deck has a first layer of plywood planking over the framing and then a finish wood overlay epoxied in place. At that point is the finish layer covered with epoxy and then varnished or just varnished or just clear polyurethained or just clear coated? As you can see I am "unclear" about the process.

Please keep me informed about your decking and finishing work.

Thanks
Hpcrank (Hank)

hpcrank
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2016 1:15 pm

Re: Hello from Colorado

Postby hpcrank » Tue Nov 29, 2016 8:01 am

Roberta wrote:I have used both the varnish and Two-Part Poly- U with great results. Both require lots of sanding and prep with sanding between the coats. Poly-U works best over the epoxy base. Varnish (especially Epifanes) should be applied over a good wood sealer like Pettits. Staining should be the first thing done after the surface is smooth and flat. Then the subsequent coats are applied. Follow directions from the MFG.

Roberta


Thank you much Roberta, more questions to follow. :)

Hpcrank (Hank)


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