Introduction

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Cyberguy
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 12:39 pm
Location: Auburndale, FL

Introduction

Postby Cyberguy » Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:11 pm

Good evening all,
For Christmas, my wife got something for me that I have only dreamed of for the last few years while we were waiting for our builder to finish our custom lake front home... the plans and a check for all the tools I might need to build the 19 foot Bow Back inboard boat. She also got me the book on plywood boat building as well as cold bending. I have no idea what I am getting myself into but am anxious to get started. Any tips on the initial set up. I will be building this boat in the two car section of a three car enclosed garage and although I know the form needs to be anchored to the floor, I would like to have the anchors removable so that when the boat is finished I can re-use the garage for parking.

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Bill Edmundson
Posts: 10318
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Re: Introduction

Postby Bill Edmundson » Wed Jan 04, 2017 6:43 am

Cyberguy

Welcome! Anchoring the form is recommended. But, for some of us it just isn't practical. Some people even use rolling forms. The key here is working balanced side to side. Pulling from the form or the other side of the boat. Like picking yourself up by the bootlaces.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Cyclone
Posts: 53
Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:26 pm
Location: Barrie, Ontario

Re: Introduction

Postby Cyclone » Wed Jan 04, 2017 9:03 am

If you anchored your building frame to a concrete garage floor using some concrete screws like the "tapcon" type, then you would be able to remove the screws when you are finished and use a concrete repair product to fill the screw holes. This is a assuming there is nothing in the concrete you would not want to hit when drilling the screw holes. I doubt there would be as your garage floor is likely a concrete pad. There is a small chance you might happen to drill into some steel rebar reinforcement depending on how deep you drill, but if you did I would just drill a new hole over a bit to miss it. Sorry if I am getting too detailed, as you may not need it.

I am sure you will enjoy your build, sounds like you have plenty of room for it.

Have you picked out some plans?

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hoodman
Posts: 1057
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Introduction

Postby hoodman » Wed Jan 04, 2017 9:29 am

Congrats on the new lake house! Good luck getting your build started. If you need any help there are lots of helpful folks here on this forum. I'm assuming you mean the Barrelback 19?

I used sleeve anchors to bolt my form to the floor. They are not removable but I can cut them off flush with a grinder later. Any way you do it you can repair with some type of concrete product or some leftover epoxy from your build. Then treat your garage to a nice epoxy floor paint?

Cyberguy
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 12:39 pm
Location: Auburndale, FL

Re: Introduction

Postby Cyberguy » Wed Jan 04, 2017 6:49 pm

I chose the Barrel Back 19' inboard. As I am just getting started, does anyone have specific instructions on building a form for a barrel back?

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gap998
Posts: 371
Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 5:40 pm
Location: Wales, UK

Re: Introduction

Postby gap998 » Fri Jan 06, 2017 5:09 am

Gotta say man, that's some wife! :lol:

What I would say is read, read and then read some more!

Circumstances have meant I have had to delay starting my build, but as a result I've built it many times over in my head (and on CAD) after reading the Glen-L books, website, threads on this forum & youtube videos too. There are a few Barrelback threads on here and also a couple of linked threads on the Glen-L website. In addition to that, the build procedure of many Glen-L boat designs is common and builders of other design will have useful information.

Good luck!
Gary

Planning a whole fleet, but starting with a Zip...I think.

"Just when you think you've made something idiot-proof, someone builds a better idiot!"

Cyberguy
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 12:39 pm
Location: Auburndale, FL

Re: Introduction

Postby Cyberguy » Fri Jan 06, 2017 9:23 pm

gap998 wrote:Gotta say man, that's some wife! :lol:

What I would say is read, read and then read some more!

Circumstances have meant I have had to delay starting my build, but as a result I've built it many times over in my head (and on CAD) after reading the Glen-L books, website, threads on this forum & youtube videos too. There are a few Barrelback threads on here and also a couple of linked threads on the Glen-L website. In addition to that, the build procedure of many Glen-L boat designs is common and builders of other design will have useful information.

Good luck!

I was reading the instructions and book. While they tell you to use mahogany for framing, they don't tell you what wood to use for the form. Any ideas?

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Bill Edmundson
Posts: 10318
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Re: Introduction

Postby Bill Edmundson » Sat Jan 07, 2017 7:46 am

Cyberguy

Cheap wood! Except the top rails. I believe on the BB the top building form rails are also the engine/motor stringers. Then they should be mahogany or white oak. Most of us laminate and splice the stringers. Some people even laminate a layer of marine plywood to the solid wood. The stringers will be set so that inside face of the stringers are 26" apart.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Cyberguy
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 12:39 pm
Location: Auburndale, FL

Re: Introduction

Postby Cyberguy » Sun Jan 08, 2017 5:28 pm

I didn't understand what you meant about a rolling form until i watched a few YouTube videos. a rolling form will give me a lot more options so i will likely go with that. Thanks

Brad Tucker
Posts: 284
Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:20 am
Location: Washington, GA

Re: Introduction

Postby Brad Tucker » Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:32 am

I used weightlifing weights to hold my form down. That's the most use they ever had! :lol: for the form/strongback, use cheap wood. Here it's spruce or pine. Or something that makes a great campfire/flip celebration centerpoint. The motor stringers should be made of whatever you intend to stay in the boat, as they are part of it. As said above, be sure to build symetrically so you avoid any twisting if you don't "secure" the thing to the floor. On the Tahoe at least, the chine I'd quite a bear. I'd recommend a smart pencil line on the floor down the edge of the strongback to verify its trueness. Congratulations on the lake house! My wife wants one BADLY.

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hoodman
Posts: 1057
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Introduction

Postby hoodman » Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:41 am

I'm glad that I bolted my form to the floor. The boat can't move and its on a stable level platform. When you are bending chines and especially the plywood I don't know how you can keep a rolling platform from shifting. I know folks have used rolling building forms but I don't know how they solved those issues. In the instructions for the Geronimo it says the hull has the possibility of racking even after the flip before all the internal framework is in place. I'm not saying don't do a rolling form but there are some issues to think about.


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