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New members please include your location - Other members close to you may be of great help in locating materials and other needs.

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wsquam
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:38 pm

New Member

Post by wsquam » Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:52 pm

Hello,
I am from New Hampshire and I am building the squirt.
I started in October 2017 and have the frames and transom built, as well as the form.

DSR
Posts: 270
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:11 pm
Location: Allegan, Michigan

Re: New Member

Post by DSR » Sat Feb 10, 2018 5:35 pm

Hi wsquam, welcome to the forum! :D

The Squirt is a great design and has a lot of experience and support behind it around here.

Thanks,
Dave
DSR Performance - Home of yet another jet TNT build :D
Codename "Just A Little....."
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=29753

JimmY
Posts: 665
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: New Member

Post by JimmY » Sat Feb 10, 2018 5:37 pm

Welcome!

I love my Squirt, it's a great little boat.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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hoodman
Posts: 1910
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: New Member

Post by hoodman » Sat Feb 10, 2018 8:42 pm

Awesome, we'd love to see photos of your progress!
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

wsquam
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:38 pm

Re: New Member

Post by wsquam » Sun Feb 11, 2018 11:44 am

Thanks Everyone. Could someone point me in the right direction to ask some questions about the 10%
extension? I understand the spacing but discovered that the 7’ keel is not long enough and
now I am wondering what else I am going to be short on. My Chines and Sheers are cut at just a couple
of inches over 12’. Not sure what else I should have had cut longer.
Thanks

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hoodman
Posts: 1910
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: New Member

Post by hoodman » Sun Feb 11, 2018 2:40 pm

More or less all longitudinals will have to be lengthened by whatever percent you choose. In my case, I did a 1 foot stretch which is less than ten percent. So I had to add a foot to the keel, battens, sheers, chines, planking and the list goes on after the flip. I marked all the updated lengths on my bill of materials.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

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Bill Edmundson
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Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Re: New Member

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sun Feb 11, 2018 2:46 pm

Matt is correct. The stem doesn't change. All of the stretch is aft of the stem. If you stretch 12" then the keel, shear, chine, and battens all add 12".

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

wsquam
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:38 pm

Re: New Member

Post by wsquam » Mon Feb 12, 2018 8:36 pm

Thank you. I wish I would have joined the forum earlier.
I already purchased all lumber and many cuts I have only allow for the standard bill of materials. I suppose this should have been common sense so I guess I am stuck with 10’ or perhaps a few more inches.

I was also wondering about the notches in the transom. I cut the 12 degree angle with the table saw, that part came out OK, but the notches are fairly shallow and won’t accomodate the keel and batten thickness. Is it OK to fair taper them at the ends so they are flush?
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Hercdrvr
Posts: 718
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: New Member

Post by Hercdrvr » Tue Feb 13, 2018 4:51 am

You could cut the notches a little deeper with a router or an oscillating saw if the battens and keel are too proud, save you some fairing. If you left the keel proud and only faired it flush at the transom, the bottom of the boat wouldn’t be flat. Ideally you want the centerline of the keel flush with the transom and the edges proud to minimize how much you need to fair off. I hope I said that right. The Squirt has only a 3 degree deadrise so it’s not a big deal.
All that said, don’t cut them too deep or you’ll be adding thickened epoxy to build it back up. I always sound stupid when trying to explain fairing, just make sure the bottom of the dang boat is flat.
Matt B
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JimmY
Posts: 665
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: New Member

Post by JimmY » Tue Feb 13, 2018 10:44 am

Hi,

Get yourself a few hand chisels, and they will make quick work of adjust your batten notches. Try to fit your battens and keel even wit the frames, it will save time in fairing.

As far as your concern over the sheers and chines being cut too short, I think 12' is long enough to wrap around an 11' boat. I stretched my Squirt to 10' 10" (because that's what I could fit out of the basement), and was able to scarf join the sides from 8' and 4' plywood. If the sheers and chines do come up a bit short, you can always scarf in a new piece to extend them. Just put the scarf joint near the transom where the longitudinals are not bent so much, and make the joint ratio at least 8:1.

Also it is easier to laminate the sheer and chine from 2 or more layers, so you might consider this and you can stagger the joints.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

wsquam
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:38 pm

Re: New Member

Post by wsquam » Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:49 am

Jim and Matt
Thanks so much. You have given me new hope. I have been at a stalling point here for a while wondering what to do.
Thank you!

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hoodman
Posts: 1910
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: New Member

Post by hoodman » Tue Feb 13, 2018 1:19 pm

Yup, as Jim said you can scarf the longitudinals. I made a little sled for the table saw to cut mine. I used some chisels to adjust the batten notches in the transom on my boat.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: New Member

Post by Bill Edmundson » Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:18 pm

There have been very few problems that somebody here can't help get you through!

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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BarnacleMike
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Re: New Member

Post by BarnacleMike » Wed Feb 14, 2018 5:02 pm

wsquam wrote:
I was also wondering about the notches in the transom. I cut the 12 degree angle with the table saw, that part came out OK, but the notches are fairly shallow and won’t accomodate the keel and batten thickness. Is it OK to fair taper them at the ends so they are flush?
Yes. You can taper the ends of the battens and keel. That's what I did on my Utility, and it worked just fine:

Image

Image

Image

It will work this way, but you'll be better off if you cut the notches deeper to accommodate the full depth of the battens and keel. In the end, you'll get a stronger joint.

Although the plans and instructions call for you to notch the transom frame only, but NOT the plywood... you don't have to do it that way. You CAN cut all the way through the frame and the plywood, if this will make it easier for you to deepen the cut.

Then, once the framework is built, you can cover the full transom with another layer of 1/4" plywood. Or, you can also cap the back of the transom with a piece of solid stock. This is simply a different technique for building a transom. This is the method I'm using on my Zip. Here's a photo showing the full-depth notch for the keel:

Image
-Michael

"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly

Blog (Utility & Zip): http://barnaclemikeboats.blogspot.com/
Website of Boat Photos: https://michaelsmaddox.wordpress.com

wsquam
Posts: 15
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:38 pm

Re: New Member

Post by wsquam » Wed Feb 14, 2018 8:42 pm

Thank You. So many different techniques!

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