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New members please include your location - Other members close to you may be of great help in locating materials and other needs.

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bobf13
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2019 9:22 am
Location: Campbell CA

New Member

Post by bobf13 » Tue Mar 12, 2019 9:34 am

Bob Fritch, Campbell CA. Building my first boat, a 17' Whitehall. I look forward to getting advise and guidance as I work my way through the building process.
I'll ask my first question. For the transom, it appears the initial cut needs to be at least 3/4" larger than the drawing shows so a 30 degree angle can be cut. Is this correct?
But the angle changes along the transom as the planking is attached. Is this angle determined as you go? Thanks

TomB
Posts: 544
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: New Member

Post by TomB » Tue Mar 12, 2019 11:25 am

bobf13 wrote:
Tue Mar 12, 2019 9:34 am
For the transom, it appears the initial cut needs to be at least 3/4" larger than the drawing shows so a 30 degree angle can be cut. Is this correct?
But the angle changes along the transom as the planking is attached. Is this angle determined as you go? Thanks
Welcome Bob, Whitehall is a timeless design.

That's correct. Mark the outside of the transom and leave material around it. Fair off the surplus as you set the sheer and planks to bring the planks too the transom mark while making full contact between the transom edge and the planking. Using a long batten is really helpful to sneak up on the ever changing angle.

Good luck, post pictures.

Tom

PeterG
Posts: 682
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:08 am
Location: Connecticut

Re: New Member

Post by PeterG » Tue Mar 12, 2019 11:59 am

You are correct, extra material is needed along the edge of the transom. Just as TomB suggested, a batten is really helpful to determine the angle or bevel of the edges, a smoothly transitioning angle as you move along the edges. You could use a 3/4" square piece of clear softwood like pine or fir, the longer the better to give more accuracy (maybe as long as your hull) and lay it against the edges of the frames at even spaces intervals from the sheers to the keel and use it to determine the bevel angles of the transom (and frames).

Keep us posted with your progress and with photos, ask any and all questions and most of all have fun!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

bobf13
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2019 9:22 am
Location: Campbell CA

Re: New Member

Post by bobf13 » Thu Mar 14, 2019 7:52 pm

Thanks for your answers and support as I go through this process.
Another key question that unfortunately I think I know the answer, as I cut the keel to final size 1 3/4" x 3 1/4" with angles according to design, the keel has a slight bow to the right. Since the piece is at final sizing there are no options to re cut.
So do I need to buy a new 17' piece of wood or is there any way to salvage this 17' board?
Is it even possible to get a perfectly straight board? Thanks again for any support.

TomB
Posts: 544
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: New Member

Post by TomB » Fri Mar 15, 2019 6:28 am

The forms have to be straight and true and perpendicular to the centerline and then anchored so they stay put. Set the keel on the form and use the form to straighten the keel board. Tom

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Bill Edmundson
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Re: New Member

Post by Bill Edmundson » Fri Mar 15, 2019 6:40 am

How much is the bow? If it's small, strike a line down the true centerline and fair to that line.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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hoodman
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Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: New Member

Post by hoodman » Sat Mar 16, 2019 9:27 am

If it is a small bow then setting it in the frame notches should straighten it out.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

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