building the Sabotina transom.

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Kenneth E
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu May 09, 2019 6:11 am

building the Sabotina transom.

Post by Kenneth E » Mon May 13, 2019 9:18 am

I'm a new member living in Rhode Island. I've built a few small boats in the past, but haven't built one for about 20 yrs. My granddaughter talked me into this one as part of a Senior Year project. I'm thrilled to do it so I can spend time with her.
So I have some skills but it's been a long time. Anyhow, working on Sabotina and am puzzling a bit over the transom. I have the idea of building a "false transom" with some cheap 1/4 inch plywood to help me tie in the chines and keel. I'm thinking I could cut through a false transom at the intersections with chines and keel and saw chines and keel flush with outside of the false transome. The false transom would be temporarily nailed or screwed to transom frames. When I get all this tied together I remove false tansom and put on the real one. I'm thinking it will be a 1/4 inch longer than the plans call for, but this should not be a problem. I'm not sure. I hope I've explained what I'm thinking of trying well enough to be understood. Perhaps not. In any event I'll be working with a throw away piece of plywood and if this doesn't work out, hopefully I haven't lost anything. Thanks to anyone wanting to give me some guidance on this.

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vupilot
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Re: building the Sabotina transom.

Post by vupilot » Mon May 13, 2019 12:24 pm

Cool project with your granddaughter. Trying to picture where you are at? Do you have the chines, sheer and transom framework in place yet? Or is this to hold things together until you can get the chines and sheer attached?

Kenneth E
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu May 09, 2019 6:11 am

Re: building the Sabotina transom.

Post by Kenneth E » Tue May 14, 2019 3:22 pm

Thanks for responding. I have the forms in place. I do not have the chines, sheer, or transom framework in place. This is to hold things together before attaching chines, etc, a way to help shape and hold the chines and sheer (and keel) before final attachment to the real transom. I would dry fit everything with the false transom. It just looks difficult to assemble the real transom frames with only butt joints. I hope this explanation makes sense. Thanks

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vupilot
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Re: building the Sabotina transom.

Post by vupilot » Tue May 14, 2019 4:46 pm

I dont see any reason why you can't do what you are talking about. The building jig is there to help hold the frames and transom in place while the longitudinal's are put in place so you may find it to work out when you get to that point. https://www.glen-l.com/designs/hankinso ... pho-1.html

Kenneth E
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu May 09, 2019 6:11 am

Re: building the Sabotina transom.

Post by Kenneth E » Wed May 15, 2019 2:40 pm

Thanks. I'll let you know how it works out. One thing I have learned is not to screw and glue anything until I'm pretty darn sure I've got it right. I did look at the pics you sent. I'd studied them before and found some others on line. I'm just being cautious. Your comments are encouraging.

Kenneth E
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu May 09, 2019 6:11 am

Re: building the Sabotina transom.

Post by Kenneth E » Wed May 22, 2019 5:21 am

I'm not sure this is the best place to put this post, but I'm trying to stay in sequence with my three previous posts and replies. I'm using the false transom mentioned in a previous post as a means for keeping transom frames together as I cut and fit. This seems to be working. I figured out that if I cut away the areas of the false transom where the longitudinals connect with the framing I would be able to let them extend beyond the joint and then cut flush with framing. Anyhow, I had a chilling thought in the middle of the night: I may have misunderstood the full size paper plans for the transom and bow. Someone please confirm that the paper plans show the inside of the frames (the "fattest" side) and due to the bevels on some frames the transom and bow plywood pieces will not be identical to the bow and frame shape on the plans. The bevels will cause the plywood pieces to be smaller on all sides that receive a beveled frame. There may be an easier way to find the answer to my question than posting it here, but I am new to this. I don't know how to navigate through forum material very well yet. I appreciate any help

TomB
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: building the Sabotina transom.

Post by TomB » Wed May 22, 2019 6:15 am

Kenneth,

The patterns provide a profile for the boat. The patterns for the frames show the wide edge of the profile, at the front of the boat that would be the back edge of the frame, in the back of the boat it would be the front edge. At the bow and transom of your boat, the template shows the profile on the water side. Cut those pieces oversize, mark the profile on the outside, and then fair to the profile as you fair the frames.

Tom

Kenneth E
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu May 09, 2019 6:11 am

Re: building the Sabotina transom.

Post by Kenneth E » Wed May 22, 2019 1:43 pm

I tired to send a reply just to Tom B, but I don't think it went out. Anyhow, this is pretty devastating news. If the templates for the bow and transom are from the water side, then I just made my frames backwards. I treated the frames as from the inside of the boat. Not sure what I'll do. I haven't cut all of the relevant frames but most of them. For sure this is a big step backwards. Is there any chance what I've done could work? It would mean a greater bend in all longitudinals to reach a slightly more narrow transom and bow. Perhaps this would take the lines of the boat out of "fair". Maybe the chines etc, would not take the extra bend. If the words "water side" are not in the directions for building the boat, they should be. That makes it very clear how the templates work for the bow and transom. Any advice will be appreciated.

TomB
Posts: 544
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: building the Sabotina transom.

Post by TomB » Wed May 22, 2019 2:54 pm

Kenneth,

The PM came through but without a message...

All is not lost, it never is, my explanation could have been better. The frame pattern is for the inside of the hull and the plywood hull gets bent over it like ribs and skin. The pattern takes into account the thickness of the hull. The bow is transom pieces are patterned on the water side and, to make the shape of the boat, need to be bigger on the inside edges. If you've already cut those pieces...make the boat a little longer...move the transom back a bit (inch or two) so the forward edge will intersect the hull planes and then you can fair off the back edge...move the bow forward a bit. Make sense? Or just put a little more bend in the sides so they meet up with the transom and bow.

Tom

Kenneth E
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu May 09, 2019 6:11 am

Re: building the Sabotina transom.

Post by Kenneth E » Thu May 23, 2019 7:18 am

Just found this after writing you a private email. You've given me my answer here. Thanks Thanks Thanks. Ignore private email

Ken

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