Glen-L.com

Hello All,
I have a very stupid question, one that I should definately have answered by now. Anyway, here goes.... On the full size patterns (I'm building the Amigo) it shows the sheer point at each frame. Is this the top of the sheer/hull, or is it the start of the sheer clamp notch? I have gone back and forth over this so many times that I just built all of my frames assuming that the point noted on the plans is the beginning of the sheer notch, and if I'm wrong I can cut 2 1/2" off the frames, which is a lot easier than stretching them.
On a side note if the sheer point noted on the plans is the top of the sheer clamp will it really screw the boat up to leave th e hull 2 1/2" taller? I'm 6'2" and would definately like all the head room I can get.
Thanks as always
Dan

Not really sure. I know on my plans it showed the sheer notches in the frames. But mine's not a sailboat, so probably not the best reference.

Maybe you could post a close up pic of one of those sections in the plans?

_________________
Jeff

My Celerity build.

Thanks for the suggestion Jeff,
Heres a photo of the full size pattern page of the plans. The plans say "Sheer point @ station #..."
To make things a little more difficult some of the frames have sheer clamp notches cut into them and some of them have sheer clamps applied after they are laminated.....
Also, I know this isn't sayin' much but looking at the plans esp. the page with the frames on the building form they look like they are correct having been cut long ( with the sheer point, as stated in the plans being, the bottom of the sheer clamp not the top of the sheer/hull).
Anymore help, and suggestions, as always very much appreciated.

Dan

You're right, this can be confusing. Here's what Hankinson says in FBfA:

SHEER CLAMP

"The foundation often used for attaching the deck to the (fiberglass) hull is the sheer clamp. The sheer clamp is usually made from wood and is located on the inside of the hull at the sheer (for discussion purposes, the sheer is the point where the deck joins the hull, although this is not always technically the case)"

I dug out my plans for the F. Drake (fiberglass) which look a lot like your Amigo plans, with one exception: The F.D. has a bulwark, such that the deck point is (guessing) 3" to 6 " below the sheer (each station is different). This is shown on my plans, i.e., in addition to the reference "sheer point" (the top of the bulwark), my plans - unlike yours - also show a "deck point" some inches below the 'sheer point'.

So, I beleive the answer to your question "Is this the top of the sheer/hull, or is it the start of the sheer clamp notch?" is: Top of the hull.

Hope this helps...?

MW

Thanks Mike,
I think you are probably right.
I would like to be 100% sure before I go cutting all the frames, so anymore feedback would sure be appreciated.
On a side note, is there a difference between bronze and silcon bronze?(as far as fasteners are concerned)
Thanks,
Dan

From what I understand there is really no such thing as elemental bronze. There are a large number of alloys used commercially which contain zinc. Originally bronze used tin until the tin trade was disrupted and iron became cheaper to produce. Silicon bronze uses a small amount of silicon (3%) in the copper alloy along with some iron and perhaps manganese and that sort of thing. Silicon bronze is ideal for use in seawater and is therefore used in marine hardware. If someone is selling you bronze fasteners, I doubt it is tin or zinc bronze but silicon bronze is what you want.

Stuart

Full size frame templates on my project also show the sheer point as the intersection of the under surface of the deck crown with the inside surface of the hull planking on the station side of the frame.

It makes sense to leave the frames a few inches long with the sheer point marked on the station surface (aft surface of forward frames, forward surface of aft frames as indicated on plans). Then you can use an appropriate batten to get the "best fit" sheer curve and determine the size and bevel of notches for the sheer clamp. On my project minor adjustments were necessary to get a smooth curve on the batten. Looks like you're on track...frames look great!

Good luck!

Regards,

Steve Hansen

Thanks Stuart, and Steve,
I appreciate the info, and the encouragement.
Just when I think I have done irreparable damage, you guys know how to give me the confidence to stop second guessing myself, and to continue trudging onward.
Thanks again!
Dan

Sometimes you have to sit and ponder (C&C time), sometimes walk away for a while, sometimes get some other eyes on the matter!!!

Carry on looks great!

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

so how long does it take before you learn to understand the language?

I like the idea of building but I can not makes sense out of what is written here> Is there hope for me?

lEN

Len,
I am by no means an expert at the language, but you learn as you go. I had no idea what anyone was talking about a couple of years ago, but I really wanted to build a sailboat. Honestly, after a few hours studying the plans, and a few days on this forum and you'll be just fine.
GOOD LUCK!

Dan

try this out it might help http://www.glen-l.com/resources/glossary.html
I found this to be very helpful also http://www.boatdesigns.com/prodinfo.asp?number=12-430
even though I was in the navy for more years than I like to tell nautical terms still give me problems but you do gain them with time

_________________
Don't be afraid to attempt anything. You might surprise your self in the attempt.
http://www.facebook.com/Home.Made.Boat.Building
Modified Jubilee-"Wild Flower" 40' house boat
14' Mr John-Wild Flower 2
32' Supper Huck- Wild flower 3

Rod H

Dan

If you are having issues of apparent inconsistencies between frames, try the prinicple of longitudinal continuity/fairness. Run a sufficiently flexible temporary batten along the boat, and see whether all the spots line up along the batten curve.