adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

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Mike c
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:25 pm
Location: Katy, TX just outside Houston

adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby Mike c » Thu Jan 11, 2018 5:42 pm

I've run into a problem in my build that I can no longer put off. I want to add a rub rail made of oak. There is almost no conversation about how to do this in the plan notes. I plan to make it in to parts. The top on the deck I plan to cut from a wide piece from the bow to where the gunnel starts to straight. From there an inch and a half piece to the transom.

My problem is the piece along the side planking. Is steaming the best way to get the curve and twist I need to make a snug fit. Also the chine already has a set of nails and screws in it for the deck and side. Will it be OK to put two more sets in that same chine?

All help appreciated

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JoeM
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby JoeM » Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:46 pm

Can you do a laminate with thinner strips? Might be easier to make the bend and twist.

As far as the extra amount of fasteners into the chine, I'm a little too inexperienced to feel comfortable answering so will let someone else do so.
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JimmY
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby JimmY » Fri Jan 12, 2018 8:38 am

If you have to curve AND twist the piece, I think you will have to steam it. Even thin strips will buckle under this scenario. I added a 1/4" "rub rail" along the sheer on my Squirt and I had to spile it (cut a curved piece) at the bow to handle the twist from the changing angle between the deck an the sides.

Steaming will allow the wood fibers to slide against each other, and conform to the twist and bend.
-Jim
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Mike c
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:25 pm
Location: Katy, TX just outside Houston

Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby Mike c » Fri Jan 12, 2018 7:42 pm

Thanks guys. Guess I better watch more of those U-tube videos on steaming.

dbischa
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby dbischa » Sat Jan 13, 2018 5:24 am

I wrapped towels around and poured boiling water over the members I needed to bend and twist. I left them to sit for about 15 minutes or until they become more supple. Then I removed the towels, bent into place and drilled the screws. They were left to dry out and then they were undrilled, epoxied and re-bent and screwed into their final place.

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Stuart
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby Stuart » Sat Jan 13, 2018 10:09 am

Wish I had thought of that. I put a 1/2" x 4" oak rub rail on the Glen L 25. I scarfed it first. Worst experience I have ever had. I drilled it for bronze nails ever few inches. Routed the edges. I maybe should have started at the bow and should have had help. I also had to work fast because of the epoxy and I had to hold 25ft of oak in place and nail it. What I didn't consider was that at the bow there are two curves, one going in and one twisting out. If I had started at the bow I would have lots of wood to use as leverage. As I approached the bow the wood was twisting up and I had only a foot or two of material to pull on. As the epoxy dried and after falling off the ladder I swore this was the last time. Then I finished with a 3/4" square oak stringer on the inside nailed between the rub rail and the deck. It looks ok by my standards and has been in place for 2 years without problem. Never want to do it again though.

Stuart

dbischa
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby dbischa » Mon Jan 15, 2018 4:47 am

That's sounds like an awful ordeal. Well done for pulling it off.


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