adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

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Mike c
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Location: Katy, TX just outside Houston

adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby Mike c » Thu Jan 11, 2018 5:42 pm

I've run into a problem in my build that I can no longer put off. I want to add a rub rail made of oak. There is almost no conversation about how to do this in the plan notes. I plan to make it in to parts. The top on the deck I plan to cut from a wide piece from the bow to where the gunnel starts to straight. From there an inch and a half piece to the transom.

My problem is the piece along the side planking. Is steaming the best way to get the curve and twist I need to make a snug fit. Also the chine already has a set of nails and screws in it for the deck and side. Will it be OK to put two more sets in that same chine?

All help appreciated

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JoeM
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby JoeM » Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:46 pm

Can you do a laminate with thinner strips? Might be easier to make the bend and twist.

As far as the extra amount of fasteners into the chine, I'm a little too inexperienced to feel comfortable answering so will let someone else do so.
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JimmY
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby JimmY » Fri Jan 12, 2018 8:38 am

If you have to curve AND twist the piece, I think you will have to steam it. Even thin strips will buckle under this scenario. I added a 1/4" "rub rail" along the sheer on my Squirt and I had to spile it (cut a curved piece) at the bow to handle the twist from the changing angle between the deck an the sides.

Steaming will allow the wood fibers to slide against each other, and conform to the twist and bend.
-Jim
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Mike c
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Location: Katy, TX just outside Houston

Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby Mike c » Fri Jan 12, 2018 7:42 pm

Thanks guys. Guess I better watch more of those U-tube videos on steaming.

dbischa
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby dbischa » Sat Jan 13, 2018 5:24 am

I wrapped towels around and poured boiling water over the members I needed to bend and twist. I left them to sit for about 15 minutes or until they become more supple. Then I removed the towels, bent into place and drilled the screws. They were left to dry out and then they were undrilled, epoxied and re-bent and screwed into their final place.

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Stuart
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby Stuart » Sat Jan 13, 2018 10:09 am

Wish I had thought of that. I put a 1/2" x 4" oak rub rail on the Glen L 25. I scarfed it first. Worst experience I have ever had. I drilled it for bronze nails ever few inches. Routed the edges. I maybe should have started at the bow and should have had help. I also had to work fast because of the epoxy and I had to hold 25ft of oak in place and nail it. What I didn't consider was that at the bow there are two curves, one going in and one twisting out. If I had started at the bow I would have lots of wood to use as leverage. As I approached the bow the wood was twisting up and I had only a foot or two of material to pull on. As the epoxy dried and after falling off the ladder I swore this was the last time. Then I finished with a 3/4" square oak stringer on the inside nailed between the rub rail and the deck. It looks ok by my standards and has been in place for 2 years without problem. Never want to do it again though.

Stuart

dbischa
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby dbischa » Mon Jan 15, 2018 4:47 am

That's sounds like an awful ordeal. Well done for pulling it off.

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BayouBengal
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby BayouBengal » Tue Jan 16, 2018 11:08 am

Mike, There's more to installing rubrail around the bow than bending and twisting. In addition to bending the rubrail around, you also must bend it downward. This is extremely difficult and I found this out the hard way on my first build. On my second build I made it easy on myself by making a pattern for the downward bend and cut down a wide plank with that curvature so that I only had to bend the wood rubrail around the bow, not down at the same time. I also built up the rubrail to 1/2" width using two 1/4" laminations, but this probably won't be necessary if you steam it.

My boat has a wood rubrail capped with stainless half round. Each boat's vertical bend will be different, but the drawing below shows my pattern for the rubrail vertical bend around the bow. I'd used this pattern to send to the folks at http://www.marineind.net/ so that they would prebend the stainless steel half round so that it could easily be bent around the bow without any twisting or vertical bending, and fit nicely over my wood rubrail section. As you can see, the amount of vertical bending necessary is signicant. Hope this description helps.

Rub Rail Bend 01.jpg

Mike c
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby Mike c » Thu Jan 18, 2018 11:16 am

Guys thanks for all the good input. Sorry I'm slow getting back weather has kept me on other projects.
I used hot towels earlier in the build. Worked well,but don't remember, did it discolor the wood?
Bayou Bengal can you give me a few tips on the template. I was thinking thin plywood or heavy paper and marking the outer edge then drawing a parallel line for the inside edge?
Geaux Tigers.

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BayouBengal
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Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby BayouBengal » Thu Jan 18, 2018 11:45 am

The width of wood for my rail was 1.5" inches. I used cardboard to get a "close-enough" template and used that template to rough cut my plank about 3" in width. I screwed the plank (future rail) to the shear with some amount of it protruding above the deck at all points, and then planed off the top to even with the deck. Then I removed it and marked the width from the planed top to 1.5" and cut the bottom at the 1.5" line. I'd already spoken with Lowell over at Marineind.net and discussed them bending the stainless and he assured me that he could bend precisely in accordance with whatever drawing I gave him. I say this so that you understand, the drawing template in the above post was made using the actual finished-cut rubrail piece laid flat out on paper for the stainless bender to use. My actual cutting of the rubrail was made from the close-enough template and refined while temporarily screwed in place on the boat. I included the drawing to show how much curvature you can expect in the rubrail, not to say that it's possible to make such an accurate template for initially cutting your rubrail.

BTW, my rubrail is even with my plywood deck underlayment and then the coverboards go over the top (so I actually planed the top to the level of my plywood underlayment before putting on the mahogany coverboards). But I've seen it both ways, even with the actual deck so that a seam shows on top, or like mine, even with the underlayment so that the seam is on the side.

Mike c
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:25 pm
Location: Katy, TX just outside Houston

Re: adding a rub rail to my Glen-l 15

Postby Mike c » Fri Jan 19, 2018 12:10 pm

Thanks Think I will give that a try.


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