Glen-L.com

This question relates to a plastic boat that I bought a few weeks ago.

It is a 2007 Cutter (by Grew) with a 90 HP Merc.

http://grew.ca/CutterBoats/2010Boats/17 ... index.html


Basically, the battery drains in a day. From fully charged to "dead as a doornail". I just put a brand new battery in, and face the same problem.

My guess is that there is some sort of short or ongoing drain on the battery.

The battery is a PITA to access, so it is not fun to disconnect the terminal every time. I was thinking of installing an accessible main battery switch. But the real solution is to find and fix the root cause.

Does anyone know of a troubleshooting checklist that I should follow to diagnose the problem?

(my guess is that I just turn the boat off, and start prodding around with my multimeter looking for current).


Suggestions are welcome.

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

Bruce; The simplest way is to put your voltmeter between the positive post and the disconnected battery cable. If there's a reading, then something is "on". Keep disconnecting things till you find something.
Good Luck.
Doug

If you have a multi meter that can read current then you can disconnect the negative or positive cable and connect the leads of the ammeter between the terminal and the lead, be sure your ammeter can handle any current there may be and do connect ammeter leads appropriately. If there's current flowing through the ammeter when everything is 'OFF' start pulling fuses until the current draw stops.

Here's a trick I will share with you for someone who may be working solo. You can disconnect one lead from the battery terminal but instead of an ammeter you can use a 'good' headlight or bulb and connect the 'bulb' in series between the battery post and lead. This is particularly good if you have a 'dead short' (which doesn't seem likely) but if the current drain is large enough it will enable enough current flow through the 'bulb' to 'light' it - and all you have to do is 'look for the light'! Start pulling things until the light goes out, and if it doesn't - start pulling your hair out.

PS: Just noticed you are from 'TO' - hi from a displaced cannuk in Raleigh NC

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This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

Thanks to both for the ideas.

There are several wires from each battery post. (I don't know where some of the smaller ones go, but there is an aftermarket fish finder in the boat)

I have a good multimeter, but I will likely be working alone on this.

I'll start by testing current thru each of those wires. If that leads me to the main panel, I like the suggestion of just rigging a bulb in the circuit and then pulling fuses until it goes out!

Of course, the fuse block is where to start! (duh me! I hadn't thought of that)

(More suggestions are welcome, but I think I know how to proceed now.)

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

Bruce; Years ago I worked in automotive electrics and when we had a short that was blowing fuses ( usually something under the rear seat or trunk) we replaced the fuse with what we called a "heavy duty" fuse. It was actually a piece of 1/4" brass rod! Then you ran around looking for the flames or sparks. Worked every time.
Doug

An easy way to do this, without having to take wires off the battery is to pull a fuse and put your meter on to current, then stick the leads across the fuse terminals. You can then work your way along the fuse panel until you find your culprit.

This of course assumes that everything goes via the fuse panel, after market stuff may not have correctly installed. Still a quick and easy way to start.

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Building a Monaco....provisionally called "Serenity"
http://glen-l-monaco.blogspot.com/

It's either a dead cell in the battery or bad diodes in the alternator. You can have both tested at Auto-Zone.

You can use a 12V test light between the neg term of the battery and the cable. The light will be on whenever there is current flow. Pull fuses and disconnect items until the light goes out to isolate the circuit that is on and draining your battery.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"