Glen-L.com

I spent some time on the road this weekend and started thinking about wiring for the rebuild project and the Malahini. Most of my wiring experience has been residential...this dang marine stuff now has me confuzzed. I've read three books and was convinced I had it down pat...now the second guessing has begun. I did a quick basic Visio drawing while I was on the road...critique it please. What am I missing, what's wrong with it, I didn't leave a hookup for christmas lights or the margarita machine but I'm sure something's not right.

Please let me know what you think!

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

This looks to be helpful too from the USCG site.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

Looks good to me. My only suggestion would be to direct wire your stereo instead of running it through the ignition switch. You may want to have it on while taking swim break stops; no reason to exhaust your battery with instrumentation power just because you want to listen to the stereo.

Looks good, but you may want to run a 3 way bilge pump switch (Automatic, Off, Manual).
This will require unswitched 12 volt power to an SPDT ON-OFF-ON (Momentary) switch :

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... ePump.html

Another point would be to include a Neutral Safety Switch into your diagram. Safety First !
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Paul Kane Chelsea, PQ

Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.boats.chelseacoachworks.com

I highly recommend that if anyone needs panels made for wiring and console switching plates, this guy is top shelf and produces some incredible work and workmanship. Its a mom and pop run business with a limited website. Butif you e-mail him he can provide numerous shots of work that he has done. Sometimes it may take a day to get a reply as he does it all.

http://www.vectorled.com/

Bill,
I think the aft light/anchor light should either be switched separate or by a anchor/running light switch so it can be lit independently.

The bilge blower,bilge pump anchor light(aft nav light),and maybe stereo should be on a non-ignition circuit.

The other peoples ideas should be added too.

Maybe an electric horn,non-ignition switched too

Cockpit lights if running at night

Electrical plug for accessories,heavy enough for a spotlight.

Other than that,looks good to me(didn't get into size of wire or capacity of fuses)

Warren

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Thanks all...all great input! This was a first draft, I'll continue to make revisions along the way and will incorporate a lot of your recommendations. This is a really simple diagram and it will evolve when actual devices and circuit loads are known.

I'm not sure about leaving circuits off of the ignition though. I can just imagine one of the kids playing with the switches and leaving something on. I'll have to think about that one. Maybe a four position switch instead (off, accy, run, start).

I like the idea of a neutral safety and the automatic/manual bilge pump too.

Yea, there is still stuff to add. The wife will probably want convienence lights in the glove box, in the storage areas, and a place to plug in her heated blanked to take the chill off on evening excursions.

Keep the ideas coming. I update the drawing tomorrow night. Gonna be on the road again tonight and tomorrow.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

Oh, and thanks for the link Mike...that some nice work.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

You joked about the blanket,but they do make a 12v one for use in truck sleepers!!

I would just turn the batt selector switch off when the kids are playing

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

If you click on the couple of consoles, this takes you to some of his work. I have used him for several projects. His prewired panels have top of the line parts and wire ends for some rough exposures.

Are you letting the paying job get in the way of life again?

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Your Christmas lights go on a simple circuit and looks like this!

I don' t see anything wrong with your set-up either, but since you are in the design stage I have something else to offer that I did when I rebuilt my pontoon 5 years ago. We frequently boat at night and electrical problems at night are a big pain. I felt I could design in some diagnostics in my electrical controls if a problem occured. It had always struck me as strange that in the 21st century a lot of boats and vehicles still use fuses to protect a circuit. This use of fuses is strictly an economy measure and finding a bad fuse in the dark on a boat is not enjoyable. Here is what I did, I have 5 switches on the console, each switch has an internal light and shows red or green for ST switches or red/white/green for DT switches. Below each switch is a bi-polar LED, below the LED is a circuit breaker and behind the panel is a small SPDT relay for each LED. Turning on the main switch supplies power to the panel and lights the LEDs green. They stay green, regardless of switch posistion, as long as the circuit is OK. If a short developes an opens the circuit then the circuit breaker pops and gives a visual indication but only in daylight, the relay turns the LED from green to red specifically for night use but you can see them in daylight also and before I forget it the internal lights in the switches show their posistion at night and are activated by the running lights switch. Except in a total power failure this system will indicate any problems and enable them to be corrected quickly and easily.

Okay, took a break this evening from the Malahini and came back to work on the wiring diagram. I added the Neutral Safety, added the unswitched auto bilge line, and detailed the instruments. I don't show the bonding circuit yet or trim/tilt...but these will be easy to add in but I need to figure out how to draw a momentary on-off-on first. I also updated the labeling to better identify what's what.

Let me know your thoughts and what I've missed.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

Bill

I just e-mailed my wiring diagram. It's the same as on the web below. But, you can read it. If it doesn't come thru I can resend. I made a few last minute changes. It's close though.

Bill

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Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build