Glen-L.com

Mike - That is gonna be sharp.

dave

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Looks Great!!!

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Anybody ever try brass, aluminum, pewter, nickle/silver, or other soft, non-ferrous metal for this application?

Palm might give good texture.

For something really off beat, how about rubber or delrin?

Just spitballing...

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

I think I will pass on your suggestions Andy. While I am a bit off the wall, I try to keep things relatively simple, wood on wood, or even resin seams for clearcoated decks thats going to sit in the open elements part of the day. Rubberized stuff is not real friendly to varnish overcoating, from my previous observations.

Hi Fred: Wenge might be a less expensive alternative to ebony for seams. A little wilder grain pattern, but gives you the same dark contrast. Usually very straight grained where I find it as well.

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Ken Hundley
http://www.nocturnalguitars.com

So, my big brother was playing guitar and I figured I'd try it too.
- Stevie Ray Vaughan

Yea, metals and plastics probably wouldn't expand and contract favorably to wood.

I bet a nice white Holly would be awesome though! I've used it for knife handles. It can be fairly hard and has a very durable straight grain.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

I was going to pester Roberta some more on her thread, but since this is up and going, I'll add to the questions.

If you are using solid stock to plank the deck and some sort of paste caulk to fill the gaps, what is the best method to ensure that the gaps are perfectly even?

My first instinct is a router, but how do you prevent wandering bits?

Do you put down the king-plank and cover-boards first--route them--then remove them so you can repeat the procedure for the field-boards? Then, you reinstall everything with the glue?

I'm just having a tough time getting my head around the best (read: most efficient) procedure.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

I layed out the king plank and perimeter planks, then I started at the king plank using 2 3/4" wide boards. I cut the ends to match the curve of the perimeter and king plank and used 1/4" tile spacers to keep the boards 1/4" apart. Each was temporarily screwed down with drywall screws. Once everything was fitted, the boards were removed and reinstalled with epoxy and SB screws. Plugs were installed over the screws. I will use System Three Gel Magic and a white pigment for the caulking. Doing that tomorrow.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

I've been following this thread hoping for inspiration as I keep musing over my future decking, a ways away that it is.

Been wondering about using wider planks, say 2 1/2" or so, butting them tight, but doing an inlay stripe down the middle of each board, anyone ever try that approach?

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This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

Well the deck is sanded to a uniform surface and wiped down. One more last sanding with the fine tooth paper and the stain goes on.

Very Pretty Mike!!!!

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

That is going to be a DAZZLER!!! WOW!!!

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Unique idea with the planks angled, havent seen that before. Creative and nicely done as usual.

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My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

While many were out playing with their woodies after shaming me and my original staining job, I was sanding, sanding, and sanding some more and reapplying shiny linseed oils to my wood.
Personally I am liking the dark enlays more after each coat of finish work.

Another fun project that I have been doing was to resaw my 20 foot mahogany and created a bookmatched raised coaming. Those also are now being finished off the boat in the buildup process before I install them. This also gives me free run of blocking out the side decks.
fitting the caoming on the inside the boat and sidedeck curves took a bit of patience since you have to compress the board into the side decks and check the angles. The 13 inch wide board ends up to being a ccurved boomerang shape with the sweep of the side decks and freeboard rise.

the raised sections is the location of duel conosle setup for the walkthrough windshield and the foward seating.