Team

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Ayman
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Joined: Thu May 10, 2018 8:54 pm
Location: Cairo, Egypt

Team

Postby Ayman » Sun Jun 03, 2018 1:27 am

Hello
I’m building the zip. I can’t find 3/4” marine plywood in Egypt. Can I make the steam from one price of Mahogany?
The Prof

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Team

Postby JimmY » Sun Jun 03, 2018 4:23 am

What about exterior grade Douglas fir plywood? That is an alternative listed in the Glen L materials list.

Can you list out what materials are available to you, and maybe we can help you identify an alternative.
Last edited by JimmY on Sun Jun 03, 2018 10:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Team

Postby Bill Edmundson » Sun Jun 03, 2018 6:48 am

The stem of my Tahoe is made of three layers of Douglas Fir boards. I could not make each layer from one board. So, I had to splice them. The splices of each layer are in different locations.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Ayman
Posts: 34
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Location: Cairo, Egypt

Re: Stem

Postby Ayman » Sun Jun 03, 2018 3:39 pm

The best option for me now is the mahogany option. If anyone thinks that it may harm the boat please tell me.
The Prof

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sproggy
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Re: Team

Postby sproggy » Mon Jun 04, 2018 12:32 am

The main reasons for using ply rather than solid timber are ply's stability and the fact you don't have to worry about the direction of the grain. If using solid, sawn 1" mahogany you will need to be aware of the direction of the grain - keep the grain as much as possible along the length of the stem at all points. Keep the joins between sections on the two halves well apart. This might mean using two sections for one side and three for the other. I think if I was going that route I'd sandwich 1/4"/6mm ply in between the two mahogany layers.

Another possibility would be to laminate the stem from strips of mahogany to its maximum depth, then shape it around where the keel and frame 5 1/2 attach afterwards.

Hercdrvr
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Re: Team

Postby Hercdrvr » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:16 am

I think you would be better off to use the best 3/4 inch plywood available and encapsulate very well with epoxy. Good luck.
Matt B

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sproggy
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Re: Team

Postby sproggy » Mon Jun 04, 2018 4:47 am

Or, thinking about it, laminate the stem from 4 layers of 9mm ply. Or 6 layers of 6mm ply. If you can't get 6mm you'll have problems skinning the hull.....

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hoodman
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Re: Team

Postby hoodman » Mon Jun 04, 2018 6:24 am

It doesn't necessarily have to be marine ply. You just need something with waterproof glue. And like Matt said, the best quality you can find. I have even found a few voids in my very expensive 3/4" marine ply.

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sproggy
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Re: Team

Postby sproggy » Mon Jun 04, 2018 6:57 am

hoodman wrote:I have even found a few voids in my very expensive 3/4" marine ply.


Same here - at £158 (around US$211) per sheet I wasn't very impressed to find voids, even if they were few and far between. Ironically, the £26 sheet of 3/4" WBP B/BB exterior ply I bought for my shed roof didn't appear to have any voids when I cut it. Makes you think, doesn't it? Even so, I'm sticking with the 'good' (expensive) stuff.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Team

Postby Bill Edmundson » Mon Jun 04, 2018 7:00 am

I've used some ext. grade. when I found voids I just filled them with epoxy with micro-fibers.

Marine always has an odd number of layers. That makes it nice when fairing the stem. It's easy to tell when you are at the center.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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hoodman
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Re: Team

Postby hoodman » Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:08 am

That said I have only found voids in the 3/4" okoume. I have not found any in the 3/8" which has 7 plies if you count the face veneers. Pretty crazy. It's worth it if you can get it but if you can't just use what you can find.

Ayman
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Location: Cairo, Egypt

Re: Team

Postby Ayman » Thu Jun 07, 2018 2:19 am

Thank you everyone for the great advice, it helped me to understand the idea behind choosing specific material. I will go back to my working place and put the alternatives on the table and pick what I think is the best.
Thank you again
The Prof

JimmY
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Re: Team

Postby JimmY » Thu Jun 07, 2018 9:26 am

On the Stem, I don't think you need to be too concerned about void in the plywood, since it will not be bent. Voids are more of a concern on the planking (sides and bottom) where they will be bent significantly and a void can cause the plywood to crease or break.

Best of luck.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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gap998
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Re: Team

Postby gap998 » Thu Jun 07, 2018 2:46 pm

sproggy wrote:Same here - at £158 (around US$211) per sheet I wasn't very impressed to find voids, even if they were few and far between. Ironically, the £26 sheet of 3/4" WBP B/BB exterior ply I bought for my shed roof didn't appear to have any voids when I cut it. Makes you think, doesn't it? Even so, I'm sticking with the 'good' (expensive) stuff.


Was this from Robbins Timber?
Gary

Planning a whole fleet, but starting with a Zip...I think.

"Just when you think you've made something idiot-proof, someone builds a better idiot!"

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sproggy
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Re: Team

Postby sproggy » Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:51 am

Hi Gary.

Yes, the £158 was Robbins Elite. The few voids aside, it's lightweight and cuts well. The £26 sheet of exterior ply was from Builder Depot. I also bought a sheet of 12mm 'Far Eastern' marine ply from Builder Depot (for the frames of a SoF canoe) and that cost £44. The same from Robbins would have been £115.

My next timber order, although not imminent, will be ply for the Zip's hull. I could save hundreds of pounds by not ordering from Robbins and that's significant for me. But is the cheaper alternative of sufficient quality? It's a tough call to make. Robbins Elite is okume and it bends well which is important for the hull skin - the cheaper stuff is probably stiffer.

Ian


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