Cheap floors

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oleman
Posts: 26
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 5:59 pm

Cheap floors

Post by oleman » Wed Feb 13, 2008 11:03 am

I realize this has been covered before but commody plywood and paint is now at an all time low for quality.
I am putting flooring in an old 17' aluminum hull cruiser.
I purchased bd .75" exterier ply at the home center. They no longer carry AC. I selected sheets with no repaired voids on the b surface and few un-repaired voids on the d surface.
When cutting to shape I discovered several interier voids but decided to live with them. [many more voids than in the past]
I rolled the edges off with a 1/4" router bit and sanded all sides.
I painted the ply with rustoleum enamal, several heavy coats, paying attention to the edges.
I realize I should soak in epoxy BUT epoxy costs more than the plywood and I am poor!!
It will be screwed down with #10 squaredrive SS screws.
The floor in not solid, I delibertly left cracks to the bilge to allow fast water drain.
I have some rubber backed outdoor carpet that I can cover the floor with. Thought I would use ss staples in the arrow T50.

This boat is trailered and the floor should never sit in water, unless gulp, she sinks!!

Anyone have a good guess as to how long the floor will last?
Should I stop now and use my $$ on marine ply and epoxy?
I really am after only a year or so while I work on my Glen-l project.

PapaDon
Posts: 66
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 9:37 am
Location: BiggestLitleCity

Post by PapaDon » Wed Feb 13, 2008 7:55 pm

OK I have a response here, at the risk of opening a can of worms. From fully, expensive, Epoxy encapsulated marine plywood you can reasonably expect a useful life of 26 YEARS. Whereas the 'cheap' B-D exterior, painted all-to-hell alternative will need replacement in a mere 24 YEARS! Grab a beer, sit down and contemplate your next dilemma. Honestly, I think you're good here.
If God had intended for us to have fibreglass boats, we would have fibreglass trees.

FDMSIV
Posts: 407
Joined: Tue Jun 06, 2006 12:28 pm
Location: New Orleans

Post by FDMSIV » Wed Feb 13, 2008 9:19 pm

You might want to watch out for the carpet. I would just add some "traction" to the paint. You run the risk of water getting stuck and pooling b/w carpet and painted ply. Just a though

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kens
Posts: 4687
Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 5:25 pm
Location: Coastal Georgia

Post by kens » Thu Feb 14, 2008 6:34 am

I also think the carpet will only hold moisture and promote rot.
I would fill the voids around the edges with something, fill with something to prevent water intrusion.

tbagger
Posts: 41
Joined: Sat Sep 23, 2006 2:10 pm
Location: Western Mass

Post by tbagger » Thu Feb 14, 2008 6:45 am

Really think of how long ext. ply lasts when used for ordinary purposes. I have a shed made of the same stuff, one coat of cheap primer then two coats cheap ext. paint, that was 20 years ago. I've power washed it and painted once since then and it sits in the sun in New England weather (-25 degrees to +105) so I think you're ok but I might leave the carpet off also.
Tom

oleman
Posts: 26
Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 5:59 pm

Post by oleman » Thu Feb 14, 2008 12:39 pm

Appreciate the responses!!
No carpet to be added to boat. That's probably what caused the demise of the previous floor in JUST 16 years. Actually I looked at several aluminum hulled boats and most of them with carpeted floors had some rot at around 6-8 years of normal use.
I already painted the pieces without filling the voids on the ends.
I have a tube of 3m 5200 and a can of fiber-filled and regular BONDO for a car body.
Which one pf these would standing the best chance of blocking the water and staying put in the seam?

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Fifty Plus
Posts: 337
Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2007 3:45 pm
Location: Thumbpit,Michigan

Post by Fifty Plus » Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:58 pm

I would use the 5200.
Shark grip is good and easy for traction. It is plastic microspheres that stay mixed in the paint and don't settle out like sand. If you want to get rid of the non skid later, they just sand off. The grip is better than it sounds like it would be.

Carl

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