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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 2:08 am 
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Location: Branson, MO
Well, if there is a will there is a way.

Explain the taped edges please?

BTW - looking good as always

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:28 am 
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Location: Ridge Spring, SC
Dave,
I use the tape to give me a nice straight line to trim the cloth to after the epoxy has set up enough. Makes for a neat job. I picked up the tip on here. Thanks Oyster. :D

Here is a picture of the bottom at the transom after I trimmed the glass. I had already glassed the transom overlapping the bottom and sides by 4". I overlapped that glass by 2".

Attachment:
16' Huck Finn 080.jpg
16' Huck Finn 080.jpg [ 3.06 MiB | Viewed 593 times ]

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 11:55 am 
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Location: tarpon springs fl
You cut along the tape and remove excess glass and tape when green

The taped edge & cut gives you a nice straight,uniform edge which makes feathering and fairing easier and more uniform than a jagged edge and stray fibers.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 12:03 pm 
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Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
I use a metal yard stick and lap the edge each way the width of the Yd. stick.

Bill

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 5:51 am 
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Location: Toronto, Canada
Beautiful work Chip and clever idea of cordoning off your work area from the rest of the garage.
Richard


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 8:32 pm 
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Thanks Richard,

The plastic was a big help, but as I was doing the fill coats I realized I had a problem. It has been windy here lately and I got alot of dust blown in from around the garage door. :( We are going to clean that side again and tape plastic on the outside of the garage door opening before glassing the last pontoon. :wink: :D

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:54 am 
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Location: Kenosha, WI
Hey Chip, way back in your December 04, 2009 post (page 2?) I saw where you had your bulkheads on the building form. How did you attach them and keep them vertical to the form? I was thinking of using bar clamps and shims if necessary. If that be the case, following your suggestion to get the form up off the floor really paid off. Thanks for all of your help.
Jeff


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 10:33 am 
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Location: Ridge Spring, SC
Jeff,

I used long deck screws and screwed the top cleats straight to the building form. Never had a problem. If you use screws just make sure they aren't too close to the bulkheads or the sides. It gets a little tight in there once the sides and bottom go on. I had trouble getting a couple out that were to close to the sides. :roll:
Your bulkheads should be real close to vertical when you install them. You could brace them off, but I didn't. I installed my keels first and adjusted the bulkheads as I did so. I did the same thing when I installed the chines. Just make sure the transoms are true before you start.

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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 11:31 am 
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Chip,

I'm running a strip of 8" wide glass along the bottom of each toon to strengthen the bottom/side junction before I glass the entire toon.

When you overlapped near the transom, did you apply a fill coat prior to overlapping? Since I have 16' of 8" overlap x 2 on each toon, I'm wondering if I should add a second coat of epoxy to fill the weave, feather and then cover the whole toon or just cover and not worry about the overlapping parts?

Steve


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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 2:41 pm 
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Steve,

I followed the instructions and didn't use any tape. I fiberglassed the hulls with one layer of 6 oz cloth and the only overlap I had was at the transom. See the above picture. I put two coats of epoxy on the piece on the transom first, let cure and lightly faired the edges. If I were going to paint my sides I would have faired more. I then repeated with the piece on the hull and sides. Since I only lightly faired the glass edge I applied extre coats of epoxy to the overlap so I could then fair the area.
Being frame built hulls I don't think tape is needed. Just my 2 cents. Now if this would have been a S & G built. I would have applied tape on all interior and exterior seams.

Hey I almost forgot. Where are the pictures you promised? :D

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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 7:41 pm 
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Chip,

Good to know the strips probably are overkill on a frame boat. I wondered about that. My epoxy on the frame members seems to have cured correctly despite the 40-60 degree temps during the build. I guess the epoxy, screws and glass should hold it together. I've been shopping Dollar stores for pool noddles for backup flotation- the family is getting worried - I might be alone on the maiden voyage. Also, at this point I think my wife wishes it would sink. Shes had enough fun parking outside, smelling epoxy and tracking in sawdust.

Pictures to follow, once I can get them off my phone. Keep in mind its more of a Home Depot boat that wont be invited to the 2012 Glen-L gathering.

Thanks for the help. Looking forward to your remaining build.

Steve


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PostPosted: Sun May 01, 2011 10:16 pm 
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Steve,

Believe me I'm no expert. If you saw my work up close you would see what I mean. I bet you have done a fine job and she will float. :D And I don't care if you built it with duct tape and cardboard. I'm impressed with the fact that someone would even think about building a boat. Even more so that they would actually do so. Hurry up with those pictures!!!
Oh, and you have time to finish her before the 2011 Gathering. You are invited either way.

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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2011 4:53 am 
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GarageSailer wrote:
Chip,

Pictures to follow, once I can get them off my phone. Keep in mind its more of a Home Depot boat that wont be invited to the 2012 Glen-L gathering.

Thanks for the help. Looking forward to your remaining build.

Steve


Such statements are sacrelege. :D :D . We all have one thing in common - a testament to spirit of the boat builder. No two are alike either in style or quality of build. But that does not matter. It is the fact that you built it yourself and that is all that matter's.

There was one gent at the G3 with a sailboat he built totally out of scraps he found. He wanted to see how little he could spend. I think in the end, he had a couple $100 dollars mostly in paint. Everyone attending was in awe how cheap he built a boat he could just go out an enjoy.

Now hurry up. G5 is coming up in 137 days.

dave

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My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

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Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.


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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 12:13 pm 
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Here's a few pics of my Huck Finn 16' build. Starting with the bulkheads where I used Titebond, the waterproof version, and lots of screws as backup. (Just couldn't wait for the epoxy to arrive)


Attachments:
File comment: A makeshift bulkhead oven to aid in the curing process.
IMG_0179.jpg
IMG_0179.jpg [ 2.18 MiB | Viewed 443 times ]
File comment: The bulkheads were made in the garage- Michigan in February.
IMG_0168.jpg
IMG_0168.jpg [ 2.11 MiB | Viewed 443 times ]
File comment: First steps - creating the bulkheads
IMG_0166.jpg
IMG_0166.jpg [ 2.33 MiB | Viewed 443 times ]
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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2011 12:16 pm 
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Bulkhead (Front) and (Back) fresh out of the oven.


Attachments:
IMG_0170.jpg
IMG_0170.jpg [ 2.31 MiB | Viewed 443 times ]
IMG_0171.jpg
IMG_0171.jpg [ 2.26 MiB | Viewed 443 times ]
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