Plywood for Malahini Build

Onplane · **Posted:** Mon May 17, 2010 6:50 am

Ok, so this topic has probably been gone over in this forum over and over, but being new, please bear with me.

I live in Dayton, Ohio, and have to say, not many options for marine grade ply! Local supplier carries 3/4 DF ply, that's it.

So, I've been looking online, looks like my choices are Meranti, Okoume, or Douglas Fir

I have heard DF is not worth the checking issues that will arise later, so I'm thinking that's out.

Meranti is the next cheapest I guess, but not sure if it finishes naturally ok or not (If not, not a huge deal, I don't mind painting the entire hull if I have to, or doing a combo of Meranti for hull bottom, and Okoume for sides).

Okoume, is the next cheapest, but lightweight. As I said above, maybe just use for sides? I guess transom could be made from Meranti too, with a 1/4 inch lamination of Okoume for similar look with sides?

Anyhow, biggest question is shipping costs... Noah's looks to be pretty reasonable on cost for me, but what have others paid for shipping?

Also, I am building the Malahini and plans call for 16 feet long on bottom, 18 feet long on sides. I kinda figured two 10 foot long pieces for sides, but could the bottom be done in two 8 foot lengths or is that pushing it?

thanks for the help!

Iggy · **Posted:** Mon May 17, 2010 7:02 am

Hi Onplane,

I just put 1 side on my Malahini this weekend. You definately need more than 2pcs of 4x8 for the sides... 4x10 can be done in 2 sheets/side. For 4x8 budget 3pcs/side.

This is mine using 4x8 Meranti (no epoxy on the outside yet, it gets a lot deeper in color when wet):

I am using Meranti... love the stuff.. nice deep golden color when wet with epoxy. Its heavier than Occume but seems stronger.

As far as pricing on lumber/shipping, this was mine you can use for reference:
Lumber Pricing - Western Canada - Malahini Quick Comparison

ttownshaw · **Posted:** Mon May 17, 2010 7:14 am

Meranti finishes beautifully. I used some DF (gussetts, stem, breasthook, chine block, transom (although I laminated a 3/8" meranti piece to the outside to make it pretty). I paid the same prices as listed on Homestead Hardwoods site. Freight for me (coming from a different supplier in Houston) was about $160, if I recall correctly, which included crating costs. The bottom can be done with 4 - 4x8 sheets scarfed together. The sides can be done with 4 - 4x10 sheets scarfed but I did it with 5 - 4x8 sheets. I scarfed 2' in between 2 - 4x8 sheets to get the needed length. If you take your time matching up the grains, and with a little paint creativity, you can nearly completely hide the joints. If you don't want to scarf you can use butt-blocks.

Here's a pic scarfed in place. The aft scarf is shown in the middle of the image and you can just make out the other scarf in the lower left of the image.

http://www.unitybuild.net/1003/DSC00560.JPG

Here's a finish pic of from the side...a little dusty from sanding though.

http://www.unitybuild.net/files/DSC00574.JPG

ttownshaw · **Posted:** Mon May 17, 2010 8:20 am

Correction...freight was $90 plus $25 to crate. Shipping was to my business address (with a dock).

Grand Chillin · **Posted:** Mon May 17, 2010 9:14 am

Bill,
Nice job on your scarfs. If you don't mind me asking. What did you use to cut them?

ttownshaw · **Posted:** Mon May 17, 2010 10:44 am

I made another jig to use with my circular saw. I'd take credit for the idea but I actually "borrowed" the idea from someone else...oneoceankayaks. Anyway, Jimmy70's version looks a lot nicer than mine...but I can't find his picture.

So here's the link to oneoceankayak: http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitchglue/plyshophtm/scarfjig2.htm

It looks almost exactly like his.

RayB · **Posted:** Mon May 17, 2010 5:21 pm

If you don't mind a little drive, LLJohnson Lumber has outlets in Charlotte, MI (near Lansing) and South Bend Indiana. They have all the marine plywood and hardwoods you want.

Ray B.

DaveLott · **Posted:** Mon May 17, 2010 9:06 pm

You might want to give Chris a call at Boulter Plywood in Massachusetts as well. Very solid supplier with excellent customer service. I ordered all my wood and ply (except the white oak framing material) from them. Shipping was cheaper than local sales tax.

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:28 pm

I'm planning on using the scarfing jig shown in this thread. Is the 8/1 ratio OK for 1/4" (6mm) plywood. Glen L seems to advocate 12/1. I would not be able to cut that much with a 7 1/4" circular saw. That would be 3". The 8/1 would only be 2" and doable with a common circular saw.

Thanks,

Roberta

tmerrick · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:47 pm

You realize that http://www.marine-plywood.us/ is just west of Sandusky, Ohio. They even have 10' plywood sheets and will machine your mahagony/white oak to size (for a fee).

Almost makes me sorry that I moved from Columbus, Oh.

ttownshaw · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:51 pm

Okay Roberta,

This is how I came up with my maximum cut for the 1/4" ply:

Max cut depth at 90* for my circular saw is 3 3/8". 1/4" ply is actually 6mm or .23622" + blade cut thickness (I used 1/8" since I used a standard blade - thin kerf would use a smaller dimension though). So now I'm at .36122"...so roughly that will leave me a scarf of about (if you're paying attention it will be 3 3/8" - .36122" ~ approximately anyway) 3" as the crow flies. If you are in to geometry we are talking about the "c" side of the triangle. However this isn't a perfect world and friction=heat so you end up with more waste material that is lost so you'll actually end up with about 2.81" of scarf +/- which, again if you are paying attention, is just under 12:1 at 11.89569:1. So Roberta, you can get close to 12:1. You'll end up with one heck of sharp edge on the ply that's pretty fragile so be careful. If you only end up with 2" you'll still have about 8 1/2:1 which is still acceptable in my book.

IMHO: scarfs = a stronger joint. The butt joints I saw at the gathering really looked nicer though (Chris' zip for instance).

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:28 pm

Thanks, Bill. My saw max depth is only about 2 1/4". It has a 7 1/4" blade.You must have a really fancy saw or a 10"+ saw. Unless I invest in a bigger saw ($350+) I'm limited to about a 2" scarf. Maybe I can rent one for a day.

Roberta

J Purcell · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 4:37 pm

Quote:

My saw max depth is only about 2 1/4". It has a 7 1/4" blade.You must have a really fancy saw or a 10"+ saw

I didn't know they made a circular saw that size. I feel inadequate with my 7 1/4". :cry:

Hey Roberta have you tried cutting any scarfs by hand? I made jigs for my longitudinals (works great) and for the plywood (did not like). I ended up trying some plywood joints by hand (planer, grinder, belt sander) and actually found it much easier than I thought. I offset the boards, mark the farthest point of the scarf, and just taper it. You can see how accurate you are being by the width of the plies.

Of course, I am painting so mine does not have to be pretty, just strong. However, you seem to have far better woodworking skills than I do and might be able to make a go of it.

Just something to think about maybe try it on some cheap or scrap wood. It is actually much faster now for me than pulling out and setting up a jig.

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 4:54 pm

I'm trying to come up with the best way for me to do the sides without going through enormous expense. I will be bright finishing the sides and prefer to scarf the joint. I guess I'll experiment with my belt sander and power planer. I only need to do the two joints. The rest I will butt join.

Roberta

jamundsen · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 4:57 pm

I did all the scarfing on my KR-2 (airplane) with a small drum sander using the different plys to maintain proper angle and it seemed to work out OK.

Glen-L.com

Plywood for Malahini Build

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