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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 6:42 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Boise, Idaho
All,

I have the frames on my Key Largo finished and I am starting to encapsulate them before I go further. I am using poxy shield with a slow hardener and the shop is between 68F and 70F. I am using up the first gallon of epoxy shield I purchased to glue up the frames.

I have the following going on and looking for some advice.

- When I mix the epoxy with the hardener at the first reaction small bubbles develop, after about two minutes they are gone from the mix.
- I am mixing gently by hand with a small wooden popsicle stick for about 60 seconds
- After applying air bubbles develop in the epoxy some come to the surface some stay in the epoxy and are trapped when it sets up.

Independant of it looking bad I am sure this is just a bad thing.

Results are getting slightly better as I have tried various tips and tricks on the forum but they are still there.
- Making sure I move from the mixing pot to a dispense pot
- Waiting slightly longer before applying after mixing
- Smaller vs bigger batch ( not much difference )
- While still wet slowly brush with a foam brush drawing the bubbles out

The epoxy I have left will only complete the first encapsulation layer, so about to buy more and a chance at redemption.

My theory is that it may be a an issue with the slow hardener taking too long to complete reacting due to the temp in the room and the relevant temp of the frames. I do not have any fast hardener yet but that will be the choice for my next purchase.

Looking for suggestion and if the consensus is that I am on the right track or just plain doing it wrong.

Thanks

Bryan

https://sites.google.com/site/bbkeylargo/home


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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 10:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 2:45 pm
Posts: 117
Location: Portland, OR
When I use PoxyShield as glue I always add #1 Silica to the mix as a thickener. It stays in the joint better and doesn't tend as much to drain ad run. I think it adds strength to the joint as well. I mix with a hand electric drill and a stirrer made from a bent piece of 3/16" welding rod. I stir until the mix is uniform in color and the silica is completely dispersed. I don't worry about air bubble as in truth I have not encountered the problem. I also use silica in the mix for cold-molding. I think it is most important to mix thoroughly. I have not had a failure to harden with this method while I did see some problems with hand-stirring and more so with hand-stirred PoxyGrip. I abandoned use of PoxyGrip after the first gallon and have gone through almost 20 gallons of PoxyShield.

For coating I use the same stuff without silica and apply it using a roller to as many surfaces as I can. PoxyShield is not a fun product to brush. There are available little 2 and 3 inch rollers. I have not noticed a bubble problem and I am sure that the stirrer (beater?) whips some air in.

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Built a Monaco named: Princess


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 4:56 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2007 5:23 pm
Posts: 2902
Location: East Troy, Wisconsin
Tipping with the foam brush is probably the best way to rid bubbles. Also roll the product on in as thin of a coat as possible. I rarely need to tip doing thin coats.

Roberta :D

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 6:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2011 6:42 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Boise, Idaho
Thanks for the quick replies

For the joints I used the silica in the epoxy, for the coating it is just plain epoxy and I have been brushing on with a foam brush.

Like the idea of rolling it will go on thinner and quicker; as for rollers assume they are foam, any suggestions of any tried and trusted places to buy from.

Regards

Bryan


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2012 7:24 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:21 pm
Posts: 8009
Location: tarpon springs fl
https://www.boatdesigns.com/Application ... tments/18/

Great company,great people,great products!!!! :wink:

Lots better prices on rollers than west

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