...( Gave some contact info and laid out my plans before I got to the set and questions)...
My working conditions are not the best as it tends to get hot here and it wont' be in a climate controlled location. Temperatures are usually above 100 during the summer days and drops to maybe 75 on summer nights. Winter temperatures are usually above 65 during the days and can drop to around freezing at night though usually it's above 40. We don't get sub-zero temps. It is usually not very humid. I will either have a temporary tent structure or a steel shop building where I will be doing the work.
I have heard of other people using cooled containers(stacked containers with ice between or a flat tile that was put in the freezer) to increase working time in environments like mine with other resins.
The type of uses I was seeking for the resins are a few.
I need to be able to encapsulate wood with just resin.
I need to be able to lay and fill about 7oz fiberglass cloth.
I was hoping to be able to use fillers and "glue" pieces together.
I was hoping to be able to use fillers and fair the hull.
I was hoping to be able to use fillers and laminate multiple layers of plywood and hardwood.
I was hoping to not have to do a post cure as I am not really set up for that.
After looking at your lineup of products I thought that the Super Sap One line would be best but I am new at fiberglass and resins.
Taking all of the above into consideration I have a few questions.
Will the Super Sap One work for me and my intended uses?
Am I able to use a cooled container to increase working time in my hot environment?
Will your lineup be ok to use in my environment?
What type of safety gear is necessary with your products? Is it similar to other epoxies where I need a respirator/filter and skin protection?
Does your product produce the same allergic reaction as other epoxies after continued use?
What type of fillers are acceptable with your products?
Are there any paints that are not ok to use with your products?
His response to my questions.
Sorry for the delay, been slammed catching up...
I will answer your questions in the order you paid them out:
So, low humidity is perfect..the lower the better for both clarity and strength...the temps in the summer might mean you have to work fast, but in the winter as long as you can keep it above 65F you will be good, otherwise it will just take longer to get to tack free and cure, etc...but you should be good.
You can use either our ONE resin, but it only comes with 1 hardener speed...whereas the CLR comes with 3 different speeds. In saying that, you can use the hardeners from the CLR resin with the ONE...Bio content might just drop a little. Those hardeners are called CLS (Slow), CLF (Fast) and CLX (Extra Fast). I will attached handy Rack Cards for both the CLR and ONE so you can compare.
- Encapsulating wood...yes, either system you would just paint on like a sealer...no problem.
- laying up 7oz fiberglass...no problem at all, resin has low viscosity, so will saturate beautifully.
- Fillers for "glue", yes, using something like cabosil or any fumed silica will work to thicken the epoxy and glue with a really strong bond
- Fillers for fairing...also yes, just adjust the amount and use within the working parameters of the pot life to fill and fair.
- Same rules apply for laminating multiple layers of wood...adjust filler amount as needed to get desired thickness.
- Both these systems are designed for room temp curing...ideal is around 75F which full cure will be about 7 days...post curing speeds this up
Next group of questions:
- Yes, either the ONE (high Bio) system or CLR (Clear) system will work well.
- Yes, cooling will extend your working times...pot life, tack free and full cure.
- Yes, our resin will act like any epoxy resin, so subject to some contamination, but will work great in your circumstance.
- Technically we should tell you to wear respirators when laying up, but our VOC's are so low you really don't need too...When it comes to sanding though you should. If sanding before full cure, wear a respirator with organic vapor filters...if after full cure a simple dust mask will be fine.
- Yes, you can be subject to some allergic reaction, but only if you have become sensitized to epoxies in the past...keeping it off your skin, wearing respirators and staying away from Acetone and you should be fine...in saying that, we do have different additives that make ours less sensitizing than convention systems, but the chance is still there as there are amines in the hardeners. (even though we are bio based, we are still an epoxy resin system)
- Any composite fillers you generally find will work...most common is called Cabosil or Areosil...both fumed silicas.
- Oil Based paints might have issues if the resin is not fully cured first...other than that you are good to go.
So it looks as though their products will work for our use however it still can cause the allergic reaction though it might be less of a chance over regular epoxies.
I'm still leaning towards the tried and true epoxies but i'm glad I got the information. Since i'm so new to epoxy and fiberglass I probably missed a bunch of pertinent questions I should have asked about. My next purchase will likely be the fiberglass book and video from Glen-l site.