Epoxied Fiberglass Preparation...

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Jones
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Epoxied Fiberglass Preparation...

Post by Jones »

Hi All,

I'm curious about what preparation is required before applying both top and bottom paint to my fiberglassed/epoxied (wood) hull. I'll be using pettit horizons ablative for the bottom and easypoxy for the topcoat. I've emailed pettit.com to no avail so thought I'd ask here. Any suggestions to get the best adhesion?

Thanks in Advance,

Mark

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Graham Knight
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Post by Graham Knight »

Just wash it down thoroughly to remove the waxy blush, then sand to key it and rinse.
I used one of those foam sanding blocks with plenty of water to wash and key it at the same time. Then I hosed it down to prevent any residue drying on the hull again.
Then I painted with epoxy primer first, lightly sanded and wiped down with a damp cloth, then applied two coats of epoxy gloss paint.
Graham in Shepperton, England

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JimM
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Post by JimM »

What does it mean to "key it"?

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Graham Knight
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Post by Graham Knight »

JimM wrote:What does it mean to "key it"?
Rough it up so that the paint or the next coat of resin sticks properly, it doesn't need to be really rough, just a matt finish rather than gloss.
Graham in Shepperton, England

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RobbieD
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Post by RobbieD »

Hey i have been researching the same question as you and i have found a web letter that has been very helpful. Here it is

http://glen-l.com/weblettr/webletters-1 ... html#paint

Hope This Helps
Robbie

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Dave Grason
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Post by Dave Grason »

As far as washing off in preparation for paint, DuPont makes a product called "PrepSol." You simply dampen a terry cloth or old but clean t-shirt and wipe it down. It will bet rid of any waxes, silicons and oily residues such as fingerprints, assuming of course, that the waxes and such are not built up to outrageous levels.

In the past, I've painted many cars in my garage and have always used this stuff with excellent results right before doing a final tacking. PrepSol is available wherever body shop supplies are sold. All the other paint MFGs have their own equivalent and all are good. Also, I use tack cloths made for automotive body work.
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Guest

Post by Guest »

Water is cheaper though! My concern with using a spirit wipe would be that the wax residue might dry onto the surface again, although I use spirit wipes at work successfully but that's mainly to remove silicone spots.
Washing then hosing down with plenty of fresh water makes sure it's all off.

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Dave Grason
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Post by Dave Grason »

Yes, I agree....

However, just make sure that ALL water is completely gone and the surface to be painted is completely dry. If not, you'll have fisheyes.


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brett bitner
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Post by brett bitner »

Resin manufacturers recommend water rinse for cleaning amine blush.

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