Dynel vs Fiberglass

Fiberglassing over plywood and one-off fiberglass methods. See: "Boatbuilding Methods", in the left-hand column of the Home page.

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Bill Edmundson
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Dynel vs Fiberglass

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sun Aug 22, 2010 10:20 am

kens asked me about laying up Dynel. My test show it at least 5 times as abrasion resistant. It is not for Bright work.

It cost about the same as glass. It takes a little more resin to wet out. But, a little less to fill the weave.

The scratch is from my testing. This two sides of the same piece of plywood.

This is 6 oz fiberglass
Image

This 5.5 oz Dynel
Image

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Cranky Badger
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Re: Dynel vs Fiberglass

Post by Cranky Badger » Sun Aug 22, 2010 10:37 am

I've got a bunch of scrap from a job a while ago and I cut most of it into 6" wide tape and I use it to back up butt and scarf joints in panels. For something that's the thickness of a single veneer of the ply, you've got a strength and rigidity that surpasses was a 1/4" butt block can provide - and it doesn't stand proud if you sand out the top veneer where you're laying it up.

And yeah, it's dynamite for abrasion resistance !
I've also been using it as rub strips at the waterline so the bow isn't abraded from beaching. The stuff I've got is around 10 or 12 oz, so it sucks up a lot of resin...but it's well worth it as long as it's employed only where it's needed.

I've got the plans and ply for the 15'6" dory that I'll be building this winter once I get some other stuff wrapped up.
I plan to use Dynel to sheath a small foredeck that'll hold an anchor roller to use for pulling up crab and prawn pots. A red cedar deck sheathed inside and out should ensure that the whole deck absorbs the line pull and not just the area around the roller.

Thanks for posting your results Bill
-Brian

"Do or do not. There is no try."
- Yoda

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Dynel vs Fiberglass

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sun Aug 22, 2010 11:05 am

BTW: The test was a standard fire brick, under its own weight, on edge.

It took only 10 strokes to go thru the glass. At 250 I still wasn't thru the Dynel. I got board.

It's best if vacuum bagged. But, I don't do that.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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kens
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Re: Dynel vs Fiberglass

Post by kens » Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:41 pm

Bill, thanks for posting that.
Oak is over rated, everything about it takes extra time; then it warps, splits or checks !!! :roll:

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Dynel vs Fiberglass

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sun Aug 22, 2010 12:52 pm

OK! I lied :!: :oops: It was 52 strokes and 250 strokes. I still gave up.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

steve w
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Re: Dynel vs Fiberglass

Post by steve w » Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:00 am

Bill what weight dynel cloth & were did you get it from. thinking of dynel for my vandal build. boat will be in the water all summer thank you

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Dynel vs Fiberglass

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sat Feb 08, 2014 1:08 pm

Steve

I used Dynel on the mini tug. I think I found it at Jamestown Distributors. Seems like it has 6 oz.

I think my test was 6 oz. Dynel vs 7 oz. glass. I plan on using it in the anchor chain locker on my new boat.

The biggest down side is that is very difficult to cut.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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