Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Fiberglassing over plywood and one-off fiberglass methods. See: "Boatbuilding Methods", in the left-hand column of the Home page.

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areame
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Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby areame » Fri Jul 06, 2012 10:56 am

I purchased the Squirt Fiberglass Kit to cover the side, transom, and bottom and I am to the fiberglass stage in my Squirt build. My question is, am I suppose to cover the chine, transom, and keel joints with fiberglass before I do the large sheets, and is there enough fiberglass in the kit to do so?

I have been following several other builds and it seems about 1/2 of the builders have simply covered the entire bottom with the fiberglass sheets, and not fiberglass the joints stated above. Also, I used screws instead of nails, in addition to the epoxy, when fastening the plywood panels to the frames. The outboard being used is a 1957 18 hp Evinrude. Thanks for any responses!

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Iggy
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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby Iggy » Fri Jul 06, 2012 12:01 pm

The techniques vary from builder to builder, however in my case bought my own fiberglass cloth and it was long enough I could overlap the chines with cloth, so I didn't run a seperate piece. Not everyone will fiberglass the skeg, I did, however I installed the skeg after I fiberglassed my boat bottom and overlapped the glass cloth at the keel.

When you do it with overlaps, you need to let the epoxy fully cure before you sand/feather down the overlapped edge and do the next section.

You can see some photo's of my fiberglassing here:
viewtopic.php?p=74313#p74313
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areame
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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby areame » Fri Jul 06, 2012 12:14 pm

I hadn't thought about just overlapping it, good idea, and thanks for the picture. You then did another overlap with the bottom fiberglass, to where it extended just over the edge of the chine?

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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby vupilot » Fri Jul 06, 2012 1:00 pm

I also overlapped. The glen-l kit came with plenty of fiberglass. I overlapped the keel about 4" each side and did the same at the chine. The chine edge will need to be rounded about the same amount as a pencil for the glass to lay smoothly over the edge. The transom I did not overlap since the cloth wont follow the crisp edge required of the transom bottom and I didnt want to round it over then have to fill and shape it back crisp again.

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Iggy
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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby Iggy » Fri Jul 06, 2012 1:13 pm

What Vu said.. about 4" overlap. In my case I did round over the transom and chine, then rebuilt the crisp transom edge with a build-out of thickned epoxy. In my case, I also applied spray rails at the chine (epoxy coated, not fiberglassed) after I fiberglassed my hull, where I filled the rounded over chine edge at the same time I epoxied the spray rail. I figure I can always re-fill any scratches in my spray rail, which is solid Sapelle lumber, but I would be concerned about leaving a potentially exposed plywood edge if the scratch/dent cut past the fiberglass cloth into the plywood.

In other works, my spray rails are 'sacrificial' solid-lumber pieces that can be rebuilt and are naturally rot-resistant in case I miss the scratch for a few months.
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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby areame » Fri Jul 06, 2012 3:24 pm

Oh ok, I had seen people build up the transom after fiberglassing but I didn't know why, that makes a lot more sense now. I have already rounded all the edges, including the transom, so I'll just go ahead with fiberglassing the bottom/transom edge. The overlap method seems to be what I'm going to go with as well. Any recommendations on which part to start? The GLen-L fiberglass video had recommended starting with the transom first, but then is it better to do the bottom or sides next? Thanks again for the responses.

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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby vupilot » Fri Jul 06, 2012 4:50 pm

I started with the bottom, one half at a time. Paint would mask any mistakes on the bottom and since my transom was going to be finished clear I didnt want to start there until I got some experience incase I screwed up. But it would have been fine, its easy but intimidating at first, just plan ahead and have everything ready before you start and a person with you to mix the many small batches of epoxy youll need for each section.
The crisp edge at the transom bottom will help prevent porpoising.

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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby brad1516 » Sat Nov 15, 2014 12:29 pm

I am ready to fiber glass what method would you suggest to use the dry method or wet ? do you wrap the btm glass over the transom or is the transom a separate piece ? any suggestions would help thanks

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rbrandenstein
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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby rbrandenstein » Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:47 am

I used the dry method and it worked well. I did my Malahini in 5 pieces. Bottom left and right. Sides, left and right and then transom. Do one at time. I put down strips of duct tape to make a cut line, then cut at the line when the epoxy was green (set, but still soft. ) Be careful not to cut too deep. After full cure, I feathered the edges where I would overlap.

Make sure your edges are rounded. The corner at the transom/bottom/side is a little tricky.

IMG_0591.JPG

IMG_0594.JPG
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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby brad1516 » Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:56 pm

did you overlap about 4 inches and feather it out ? does your sides wrap to the btm fiberglass 4 inches to or does it stom where you feathered in ?

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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby rbrandenstein » Mon Nov 17, 2014 4:09 pm

I overlapped about 4"
I feathered the bottom piece where it lays on the side. Then I did the side and overlapped it onto the bottom.
Then I feathered that.
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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby brad1516 » Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:55 am

when you did your bottom coat how much epoxy did you put on and the steps you used ?

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rbrandenstein
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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby rbrandenstein » Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:20 am

Most of that info is in my blog. There are two posts, starting with this one:
http://bobsboatbuild.blogspot.com/2011/04/fiberglassing-hull.html
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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby brad1516 » Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:30 am

I read your blog very helpful when you put your bottom fiberglass on was the resin tacky or completely dry ?

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rbrandenstein
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Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question

Postby rbrandenstein » Tue Nov 18, 2014 3:10 pm

The plywood was encapsulated with resin and allowed to completely dry before the cloth was put on. The cloth slips around, which is why you have to hold it in position with tape. Be sure to wash and clean off any amine blush, if you have it, before you start with the cloth.
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