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 Post subject: Hunky Dory
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:38 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:28 am
Posts: 2
Hi all I am new to this site. I am interested in building the hunky Dory in steel. I am not sure that steel is a good choice for this model, although I hope so as I really would like to use steel. I am unsure of an adequate hull thickness. Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: Hunky Dory in steel
PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:36 am
Posts: 307
Location: Kenai, Alaska
Troy, small boats in steel are not as common because of a number of factors. First is weight, second coatings cost and effort, and last is because of the first two; aluminum is often found to be less work and cost.

Steel is heavy so make the boat thin, but then you're welding very thin sheet which is not easy to keep a hull fair or wrinkle free. The Hunky is a skiff form (not a dory) and has large relatively flat areas that will be extremely difficult to keep clean/fair/smooth when final welding is done on thin sheet.

To reduce weight, naturally we'd thin the material more, and the small steel boat problems all become larger factors- yet.

Coatings are critical to any steel boat. The material has/may be/is wise to be purchased as 'wheel abraded' so that the sheets are actually primer painted while in the mill/distribution center. Then when complete, the material has to be sand blasted at least along the seams but more commonly everywhere.

Then a very decent quality primer and usually some form of coal tar epoxy are applied to allow the hull a decent life. If at anytime the paint is marred and the underlying material exposed; that area needs a spot re-blast and re-coat to avoid loosing the hull at that point. Remember its thin so it won't allow much rust- other wise the hull is heavy and the Hunky becomes a displacement cruiser!

When you initially compare aluminum and steel the steel is less expensive, but when you add the slow build, cutting and increased wit of handling along with blasting/painting/coatings labor; you exceed welded aluminum by twice or more.

In Holland they build lots of small boats with sheet steel but almost all those shapes are highly curved hull forms. They are kept reasonably fair by pulling the sheets into very contoured shapes and rolling and forming with an English Wheel, so the tension on the hull panels is greater than edge contraction when welding.

So.... steel is heavy,
to reduce wt you thin it out,
making welding 5x to 10x more difficult with much higher skill and
experience involved and
the main source of small welded steel boats almost
all make the boats in extremely curved cylindrical and conic forms
very different from a flat bottom,
straight sided,
skiff form of the Hunky form.

Once the Dutch get their steel boats done they blast and paint them and if the internet is any indication (?) they don't last 1/5th as long as welded aluminum.

The last item is strength, a welded aluminum, boat of 1/2 the weight will be about the same strength as steel.

If you skip the blasting, painting, super slow cutting and welding, and work in aluminum as you would in wood, (tools and cutting) then the result is less fuel for the longer life of the resulting skiff.

If you were pouring a few tonnes of ballast into a displacement hull form I'd say the increased weight was not a draw back, but the Hunky planes so I'd do it in wood or aluminum.

cheers,

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Kevin Morin


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 Post subject: Re: Hunky Dory
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:58 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:28 am
Posts: 2
Thanks for the quick feedback Kevin you sure did give me alot to think about. I need think on it some more before I go any further. I will keep you posted.


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 Post subject: Hunky Dory in steel
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:58 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:36 am
Posts: 307
Location: Kenai, Alaska
Troy, why don't you use the ply spec.s to get a wt per foot^2 of the bottom and sides? Then use a metal supplier's web page to find that wt in steel and see what thickness it represents?

Next, you'd look at welding that thickness, AND.... what stiffening it would require? For example if the 1/2 or 3/8 ply was the same wt as a 0.080" thickness of steel? What size for framing pattern will you end up needing in steel to make the sheet rigid?

Then why not call a steel supplier in your location and ask what steel is stocked? Then ask about 'pre-primered' steel? or "wheel abraded" steel to get an idea of their costs relative to the same steel untreated?

Finally call a local sand blasting service to see if they could give a rough idea about blast costs per square foot?

All these factors are realistic considerations for a steel version of this skiff.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK

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Kevin Morin


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