19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Steel and aluminum boatbuilding. See: "Boatbuilding Methods", in left-hand column of the Home page, for information about alloys.

Moderator: billy c

WJY
Posts: 13
Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:55 am

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby WJY » Sun Jun 09, 2013 1:05 pm

Well my steering cables arrived and the install was quick. Made it out on the water twice now, and really really happy how she performs. On her maiden voyage I had myself, a friend (and fellow boatbuilder), my wife, two kids, and a dog to boot. Launched on a local lake and tested her for shifting, steering, cavitation, etc... All was good so we took it up the river canyon and it was super pleased with the performance.

With the Honda 90/65 jet it cruises at 17 knots at 2700 rpm. WOT it runs 31 knots. That was with a few passengers. No cavitation, super stable and roomy, and the tunnel seems to be right as it doesn't suck the boat down and get clean water. Very satisfied, and very proud of my first boat.

Hopefully the pics I attach don't turn upside-down like the last few!
Attachments
P1130396.JPG
Running Myles Canyon along the Yukon River.
P1130393.JPG
Passed the first test- it floats!

User avatar
Gayle Brantuk
Posts: 1569
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 1:02 pm
Location: Bellflower, CA
Contact:

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby Gayle Brantuk » Wed Jun 12, 2013 10:26 am

WJY,

Congratulations! You should be very proud--your boat looks great! Enjoy...

Trackhappy
Posts: 1411
Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 5:42 pm
Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia. Building Gentry.

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby Trackhappy » Wed Jun 12, 2013 3:07 pm

Well done! Love the co-pilot... :D
By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

NWDriftr
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:33 pm

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby NWDriftr » Wed Sep 25, 2013 12:39 pm

Great job

North
Posts: 269
Joined: Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:29 pm
Location: Nova Scotia

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby North » Wed Sep 25, 2013 5:52 pm

WJY - Congratulations on the great results! I am a new member, just starting to work from the full size patterns to build frame templates, so I can see how they nest together, and what size sheet I will need for the frames. Building the Double Eagle at 23 or 25' and would be very please if results were anywhere close to yours!!!!

Hope you (or some others) don't mind helping another new guy out, as I have a few questions in getting started.

Can you elaborate a bit on what material and method your plans called for with respect to longitudinal stringers, why you chose to slot and use flatbar and your thoughts on how it went. For reference, I am building the Double Eagle and it describes (method 1) using tee which is ( i believe) cut in small pieces and placed intercostally (new word got me) between the frames. Or, it says (method 2) you can slot flat bar (similar to what you did) but then weld small pieces of flatbar at 90 degrees to the long ones, to basically make tees in place. I think this second method seems better than the first, for getting a fair hull, but seems like overkill when I ran this by some people on another metal boatbuilding forum - they thought just flatbar would be fine.
Then, a member here showed me (method 3) how his plans for the snakeshooter show to cut away a long swath of 2" on the outside edges of the side and bottom frames, leaving the end points, chine points, vee points full width. The 2"x1" tees are ran and welded in these swaths which allow the hull plate to sit evenly on the stringers and chine points for example(which are not cut away, so are at the same depth as the new stringers. I like the look of this method, and it seems like it would be easier than cutting individual slots at each frame for all stringers. But am wondering if I would need to add width to my frames - it calls for minimum width of 4" and would be fine for method 1 or 2. But in method 3, if I cut away long swaths of 2" from a 4" wide frame - obviously this is only leaving 2" where the tee stringers are welded on. I am thinking I would have to increase my frame width to 6" and cut away the 2" swaths to be left with 4". This would take more aluminum sheet and have more waste, as well as reducing interior space marginally.
I am leaning towards using flatbar in slots like you or going with method 3. Can you please describe a bit how you aligned and made the slots (before or after frames were up), what you cut them with and how it went for you?

Finally, my plans show the frames being made of 4 separate pieces ( 2 sides and 2 bottoms), butt welded together with overlapping gussets fillet welded onto most of these joints.
I am considering trying to make the frames each out of a solid pieces, with no welds. This would most likely result in more waste, unless they nest well together. If they don't nest well (as I try to test lay out the cardboard patterns I will make) I could consider a compromise where I cut the side and bottom as one piece and therefore only have to weld at the center vee, etc.
Would like to get thoughts on this decision, if you don't mind!!!

Any advice would be appreciated, as I would like to copy my pattern lines and make frame templates asap. Thanks!!!

cbrammer
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:50 am
Location: Traverse City, MI
Contact:

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby cbrammer » Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:24 am

Great Job on your Rogue Runner. Makes me want to make another boat.
Charles Brammer

yukiodad
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 6:58 pm
Location: Kamloops British Columbia, Canada

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby yukiodad » Fri Feb 07, 2014 8:50 pm

I am currently preparing to build an aluminum rogue runner, and trying to get my head around the transom. The plans I have call for 3/16 plate with flat bar and a piece of channel to stiffen and reinforce it. I'm inclined to double the plate and use wood or heavier metal where the motor will bolt on. What are your thoughts. It would be appreciated you include pictures of your transom
Thanks for your help
Bill T.

WJY
Posts: 13
Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:55 am

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby WJY » Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:59 pm

First of all a big sorry for all the unanswered posts. I haven't checked the site in quite some time, and I feel a certain obligation to answer some of these in detail to the community… Give back some of my experience to assist others! In the future I will try to set up my email to notify me when I receive a reply on the thread, or when I receive a PM. Even though some of this may come late for some people, it should help others in the future.

To reply to North, from NS:
"Can you elaborate a bit on what material and method your plans called for with respect to longitudinal stringers, why you chose to slot and use flatbar and your thoughts on how it went […] Can you please describe a bit how you aligned and made the slots (before or after frames were up), what you cut them with and how it went for you?" My plans called for T, but because it was unavailable at our local supplier I chose flatbar notched into the frames. Once welded to the hull plating, it effectively performed the same function (longitudinal stiffening). Framing with the FB went OK, however it was very tricky to control the shape of a curve without it buckling. It also is quite reactive to heat, having only one strong axis, so you could be welding 6 feet down and see it kink 3 frames back! If (lets be honest, when) I do my next build I would use the equivalent angle L to maintain easier curves. Cut your frames, clamp them all together, layout, mark, cut. You are guaranteed perfect alignment. Slot the FB or L into the notch, and make sure its sitting proud of the frame. Work your keel longitudinal from stern to bow on layout spacing, tacking them in place as you go. Same with port-stb, always measuring from a constant reference point. Very easy method to develop a hull.

As far as having frames nest well… If you're cutting the frames out of plate in single pieces they won't nest perfectly, so you will have waste. However you will have stronger frames, and spend less time welding. You'd also be amazed how handy "scrap" aluminum can be… brackets, gussets, non-boat projects, etc.

Yukiodad, I modified my transom from the plans. I eliminated the motor-well, so I had to reinforce it in a couple ways. I took 2X4 heavy wall channel and ran a piece horizontally gunnel to gunnel along the top of the transom. This stiffened it for push/pull type thrust from the outboard. Then I layed two pieces of channel vertically to align with my engine mounts. My four bolts are drilled through this heavy channel, welded to the 3/16 transom. A picture really does say 1000 words so I will try to post one soon.

Hope this helps folks out. Better late than never, right?

WJY
Posts: 13
Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:55 am

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby WJY » Tue Feb 18, 2014 4:14 pm

Here is a picture of the transom, showing the heavy wall 2.4 channel with the engine mounts. I also put in 2 inch flatbar stiffeners (3/16), and tied it together with some 1/4 inch gussets from the side plating to the transom. The hanging weight of that Honda is somewhere just south of 400 lbs.
Attachments
image.jpg

yukiodad
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 6:58 pm
Location: Kamloops British Columbia, Canada

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby yukiodad » Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:15 pm

Thanks for the picture. It is worth a thousand words. I've put in my vertical 2" flatbar stiffeners and a 2 1/2" x 5" horizontal channel. I like the idea of the vertical channel where the motor bolts on. I have two pieces of 2" x 4" channel I can use. Great idea.
Thanks for your help.
P.S. I'll be putting up pictures just as soon as I can figure out how.

North
Posts: 269
Joined: Mon Jul 15, 2013 6:29 pm
Location: Nova Scotia

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby North » Wed Feb 19, 2014 9:45 am

WJY - Thanks for the response - Appreciate the help and I am sure it will help other as well.
I have made some progress, and have posted pics and more questions under the Power Boats section, as there didn't seem to be much activity under this metal section. Hopefully more people will join in on the discussion of building in metal, and specifically alumium for some of us!

crowsridge
Posts: 50
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:46 pm
Location: Eugene, Oregon

Re: 19.5 foot Rogue Runner

Postby crowsridge » Sun Aug 03, 2014 6:47 pm

WJY,

Thanks for the inspiration. Ive had the Rogue Runner plans for two years or more now. I have the frames cut out and glued. I had been practicing on my aluminum welding and have deiced to scrap the composite version and go aluminum.

Thanks again, Chris


Return to “Metal”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests