question on scooter boat build

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twaite
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Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:38 am

Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Fri Apr 08, 2016 5:06 pm

:D
Attachments
buggy build.jpg
Last edited by twaite on Sun Apr 10, 2016 4:02 am, edited 2 times in total.
Capt. Travis

twaite
Posts: 129
Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:38 am

Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sat Apr 09, 2016 4:01 am

Deck Layout:

It should be very easy as designed for the builder to build in structual plating for mounting during fabrication (tied into the entire framing scheme) use extrusions/plate to build backing plates under deck plate.. can this be done during the build process... everyone is going to want something different, style, color, console railing ect. I feel that should be completely up to the builder... I would assume it would be up to the builder to configure and add backing plates and adhere to given recommended weights (displacement) this would also allow for balancing and adjustments if needed as we all know in fabricating sometimes even planed things change.. This design has a perfect canvas for customizing to fit the builders needs... that makes it that much more desirable to the consumer/builder. :D :D :D
Last edited by twaite on Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:17 am, edited 2 times in total.
Capt. Travis

twaite
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Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sat Apr 09, 2016 4:31 am

Deck Layout:

Lets design it with a blank canvas, the builder assumes the responsibility to maintain recommended specs.. does this make since :idea: :idea:


Lets just say design it as: flat decked, center console, raised platform (bow) for storage, inspection hatches (stern) and leave the custom add-on to the builder...Keep it simple for us newbies... then that would give us an opportunity to post and document our crazy customizations :D ... then others more educated/experienced can make comments, no that is wrong, that looks good, I would do it this way, that's going to cause problems and why...
Last edited by twaite on Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:17 am, edited 2 times in total.
Capt. Travis

twaite
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Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:26 am

Console Ideal: Please Note that Height can very easily be raised to accommodate your style:

Picture is of a console that will fit this deck well, it can be mounted to deck (welded with L extrusion around the base) I would prefer it be bolted as this would allow for later removal if needed for: repairs/service/modifications.. :D

A 25 gal tank will be amble for my needs but with all the available preformed size options available it leaves room for options. The shown console can be mounted directly to deck or on a raised platform off deck as is popular for the flats fishing community ( reason for raised platform is to enable one to see fish/bait while cruising the shallow clear water flats) but either way backing supports will need to be planned/added into the framing as per your chosen option.

Console for scooter.jpg


Here is the Brand Name and Model number of given fuel tank dimensions: Just incase someone wants to use this design for there build and Like me does not have access to a tig welder to build their own.

Moeller
Part number: FT2431
Tank will mounted to deck inside (under) console Build Note: need backing plate in proposed area for mounting tank
tank mounts with J clips

Moeller tank mount.jpg

J clip Dim.: 5.6 x 7.8 x 12.1 inches
Last edited by twaite on Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:26 am, edited 7 times in total.
Capt. Travis

twaite
Posts: 129
Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:38 am

Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sun Apr 10, 2016 7:42 am

Front Rail (proposed raised deck area)

In my build the boat will used for multi purposes, one being Flounder gigging. For that I have chosen to add a rail along the front deck as drawn below.

Proposed dimension:
38" H x width (to be bent in the corners to best fit the final plan) as of now I will just use width.
Post will be notch cut (hole saw method) and be welded to the proposed 1.5" split pipe rub rail that will slide over the sides (sheer) and complete the deck finished edge (corner joint)

Here is what I use to notch the pipe with, as it makes a perfect fit welding joint after a little beveling... as Kevin posted use a non stick pan spray for cutting lube..
notched pipe.jpg




There is a opening (centerline) (for now lets say 30" W x H to be determined) this will allow access to hook the front strap while loading as well as getting into boat via trailer tongue without getting feet wet. Another thought was to enable for trolling motor mounting :idea:

The rail will end just past raised deck (say top rail slopes down to attach to deck to finish off front(side sections) both P&S sides. Then I show an open section after, this will allow access for loading materials/supplies as well as accommodating convenient pedestrian access.

I then note that a short rail will be added along side console (24" H x length of proposed console + " passed each side) I want this to eliminate anyone from possibly stepping off while walking past console in night time (dark) conditions. Post will be notched cut and welded to the 1.5" pipe (rub rail)


Not noted is the Stern section of rail: I am not sure of the finished dimensions however I am thinking that it should attach the same and plan is to wrap around the corner and the top section of rail will be bent down after corner bend attached to deck to complete the rail ( will need to attach backing plate for welding) will try to draw an example and post.... to break any confusion.

Deck railing.jpg
Last edited by twaite on Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:28 am, edited 5 times in total.
Capt. Travis

twaite
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Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sun Apr 10, 2016 8:25 am

Mid Ship Rail:

Here is my stab at drawing the proposed rail as per description in the previous post:

console1.jpg



Post will be notched cut and welded to proposed 1.5" rub rail

Proposed Dimensions:
1" pipe (bend radius to be determined)
Post: 12" spacing (notched and welded)
48" L x 24 H (this will put the rail app. 4" above the console seat height
Top rail will bend downward to act as beginning and ending post.
Last edited by twaite on Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
Capt. Travis

twaite
Posts: 129
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Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sun Apr 10, 2016 9:34 am

Lean Post: Lean Post come in every shape and size, this is the one I have chosen for my build as it fits the console well.

To be mounted behind Console (17-20" is typical)
Build Note: (will need backing plate for mounting to deck (20" after console) x posted foot print W x L... (mounted with screws to deck)

Foot Print: as shown 12.5" x 33"
Weight: 40 lbs.


mini_cad_drawing.jpg
Last edited by twaite on Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:22 am, edited 2 times in total.
Capt. Travis

twaite
Posts: 129
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Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sun Apr 10, 2016 9:35 am

Air Motor mounting: Plan is to mount to Stern section of the boat. Build Note: Will need backing plate to mount to deck (feet will be welded to deck)

I am still in limbo on this

Foot print:
26" center pipe to center pipe
rear leg spacing: W 84"
Front leg spacing: W 90"

newboat-5.jpg
Last edited by twaite on Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:23 am, edited 6 times in total.
Capt. Travis

twaite
Posts: 129
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Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sun Apr 10, 2016 10:12 am

Well I think I am all caught up now, if I don't hear back I will attempt to continue on my own not simple, but I feel as I started this thread and owe it to finish... I will be trying to figure out what to do next...
Capt. Travis

twaite
Posts: 129
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Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sun Apr 10, 2016 11:05 am

Underwater Lights: Structure will be made of 1" pipe (lights to be spaced evenly and mounded on C brackets as to be adjustable, up/down, side to side). Light bar should pivot on fabricated L brackets at desired maximum lowering to keep the lights from coming in contact with bottom. Build Note: Brackets to be fabricated so that lights can pivot on a bushing pin point (config. to be determined later) Brackets will be welded to outside hull side panels...

Picture: I used Kevin's drawing to give an insight on what I am trying to describe: Lights will be lowered into water (this is great in our are as it eliminates glare from salt water as well as cutting down on the swarms of mosquitos) I plan on using 20 watt LED submersible lights in green (green lights cut through our normally off colored water here) generally off white are used but I have found green to work best in stained water. The lights on the P&S sides will be pointed out towards side to light up and give a side view.

unerwater light bar.jpg


Lights used for light bar: https://www.oznium.com/super-bright-10w ... light#tech
flounder lights.jpg
Last edited by twaite on Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:24 am, edited 2 times in total.
Capt. Travis

twaite
Posts: 129
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Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sun Apr 10, 2016 11:34 am

Here is my ideal of the deck layout for my build: I don't have the exact measurements as of yet for the hull, so I used Kevin's drawing to get a feel for the layout.. I have no clue on balancing it all but I will have to research that and post when the time comes... My drawings are in no way to scale but help me to see were I am going with this...

deck layout.jpg


Not Shown is a fish box that will be mounted to the bow section up against the raised deck on the centerline of the boat ( box will be a 72 QT cooler with a special V shape piece of aluminum attached to the inside of the rim for removing fish from gig) this box will be removable and will be mounted with standard cooler mounting hardware tie downs.

Cooler Dimensions:
Igloo Ultra Marine Manufacturer model #: 44685. Exterior Dimensions: 30''L x 16-1/2''W x 16.1''H.


Cooler tie down kit: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/igloo--ti ... --13857883 this is the best one I have found. It is rated for offshore use and the loops fold down for stowage when not in use. (no tripping over brackets) Build Note will need backing plates for brackets

cooler tie down.jpg
cooler tie down.jpg (4.52 KiB) Viewed 3711 times
Last edited by twaite on Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:16 am, edited 3 times in total.
Capt. Travis

twaite
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Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:38 am

Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby twaite » Sun Apr 10, 2016 11:37 am

Wire trace (rigging) rough in : Will use pipe so it can welded in solid thus adding to framing also makes a water tight deck as Kevin described in previous post. If space allows it may be possible to install batteries for lights in the front storage lockers this will eliminate the need for the chase from console forward. Plan is to use the chase from stern to bow for Air motor controls to include: throttle cable, start/kill switch and wiring for actuator used for turning air motor. cable size 1/4 and wiring for remainder will be similar in size.. Sorry for the rough drawing but it gives an ideal of the planning.. as it may and probably will need to be adjusted.

wire chase.jpg
Last edited by twaite on Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:15 am, edited 2 times in total.
Capt. Travis

Jamarton
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question on scooter boat build

Postby Jamarton » Fri Sep 15, 2017 1:52 am

Been thinking of going to look at some mills this weekend, i struggle with hole drilling accuracy on the drill press, my question is if i wanted to make say a motor mount out of aluminium i need to put 4 mounting holes in 50mm apart, would i be able to clamp my piece of aluminium to the mill then move it using the handles to drill the 4 holes exactly 50mm apart? sorry if this seems a little basic.

Kevin Morin
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Location: Kenai, Alaska

Re: question on scooter boat build

Postby Kevin Morin » Fri Sep 15, 2017 4:43 pm

Jamarton,
metal workers without a mill's precise sliding or cross sliding table, usually do their layout with a metal scribe in 'steel ink' sprayed onto the metals' surface, but with aluminum there's often high contrast to a marker line (edge of the marker's track on the metal) and that means the layout lines can be carefully placed edges of lines using permanent marker.

There is an implied four lines at the centers of the holes- each line's intersection would be the centerpoint of one hole in a four square layout flange plate. Then with a small metal (center) punch you can carefully make small dimples/punch marks for the center of each hole. Some prefer to use a 2n and larger punch to make a bigger conic depression to hold a pilot drill in the correct location to drill the first size hole.

Others will use a 'centering' drill bit with a small pilot tip and larger body of the final size for the hole. Still others prefer to use roto-broaches https://www.amazon.com/Blair-Equipment- ... B000LQOCRK on aluminum as it machines well with these types of bits and they have a sharp center guide (pointed) which will allow you to visually insure you have the bit aligned with the punch marks before drilling.

A mill's table (if the indexes on the cranks have been maintained?) will also allow you to move the piece to be drilled - specific distances instead of layout, punching and drilling. However if you're not familiar with a mill - it may be best practice for you to drill a pattern or two i a test piece to insure you've got the distance/travel adjustments all figured out?

Cheers
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
Kevin Morin


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