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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:38 pm 
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Location: Cape Canaveral, Florida
So a guy saw me working at the warehouse and stopped in with an offer:

All from a 1979 Ski Supreme Inboard that worked fine when he pulled the engine to put in a hotrod:

Everything for the drivetrain except the engine - from the bell housing to the prop nut - all for $500.

The Ski Supreme had a Ford Based Inboard.

1:1 (he thinks) Velvet Drive
Bell housing
Prop shaft
Prop
Prop Strut
Shaft log
Rudder
and a bunch of small parts, brackets, strainer, some thru-hulls.

The trailer was a no-brainer for $200.

I know very little about velvet drives. What do you think?

KB

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:54 pm 
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Kevin.

If we ignore that one sheet canoe thingy, I see a trajectory forming here...

tubby tug, Jet squirt, console skiff, INBOARD RUNABOUT.

(Does he still have the engine marinizing parts? Manifolds, risers, raw water pump, etc. Maybe you could get him to throw those in.)

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 4:53 am 
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A good used velvet drive is OK at $500. I think that is about market price for a velvet. Bruce has a good point, get all the manifolds and stuff from him in order to close the deal, then you got a real deal.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:03 am 
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Kevin,

A few things to check before you pull the trigger. No use buying a bunch of parts that are not suited to your build unless you plan to sell them off to buy what you need.

    • Determine the transmission's ratio. There should be a metal tag on the top of the tranny mount. Post the numbers so we can ID it.

    • Measure the strut's drop and angle, shaft log angle, prop diameter and pitch. Many of the Inboard Plans itemize the running gear hardware, so check to see if the parts will be usable.

You can take your chances and run the transmission 'As Is' or factor in the cost of a good rebuild for optimum performance.

Now, inquisitive minds want to know which inboard are you considering ??

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:42 am 
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if it is a 1:1 gear velvet, you dont even need a tag number, just a photo view will verify that.
a reduction gear is obvious difference between a 1:1

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:01 pm 
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Here's where I am. I have a Kingfisher hull built, upside down still, fiberglass on, fairing and paint needed before flipping.

Every time I go to the Gatherings, I wind up wanting an inboard. When I build another fishing boat - I want one bigger than the Kingfisher anyway. Something like KenS since I live on the coast now and never plan on leaving.

So while browsing plans I noticed the Roustabout. The hull compares very closely to the Kingfisher (on paper anyway) so I'm thinking I will convert to the Roustabout with painted sides and bright top. They are both Deep V and the Roustabout has been built as an inboard. I would take some creative license above the waterline.

What do you think??

KB

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:19 pm 
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The plan description for the Kingfisher says that you can use an inboard engine, connected to an outdrive.

Do the plans specify different internal framing (motor stringers) for that set-up? or could you proceed on that basis after you flip?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:26 pm 
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Quote:
The plan description for the Kingfisher says that you can use an inboard engine, connected to an outdrive.

Do the plans specify different internal framing (motor stringers) for that set-up? or could you proceed on that basis after you flip?


I don't know about the internal framing. I won't know until I get the Roustabout plans. We builders have a sense of invincibility about us anyway. Its only wood. I figured I would proceed after the flip.

KB

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:47 pm 
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I dont understand where you are with this. You mentioned wanting a bigger boat and converting to Roustabout.
The kingfisher is bigger anyway, the better coast boat.
Kingfisher could be setup as a vee drive inboard, and a dandy at that. Although you need to tell more about that velvetdrive you were going to buy. Is it a vee drive velvet?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 7:16 pm 
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Ken, I mean building yet another boat after the Kingfisher/Roustabout. The Kingfisher is 18ft and I really want 24ft or more for going offshore - on the next build. Then I plan on stopping building.

The guy is holding it for me until I get back in town next weekend. I'll try to get more info about the parts then.

KB

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 2:57 pm 
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I picked up my inboard parts today. The model number is L017-001 and serial number is 9628. Does anybody know what I've got before I start my google search?

KB

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 5:51 pm 
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Are you sure that is not a 1017-001?

1017-xxx series is late model 71c
1018-xxx series is late model 72c.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 6:02 pm 
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Its most likely a 1 and not an L.
I am in that stage of life for you deny needing reading glasses.

What does that mean the reduction is?

Thanks,

KB

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 6:17 pm 
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A 1017-001 is a late production, 71c series, 1:1 ratio (direct drive),
Check the indexed rotation, I believe the -001 was set at factory for a right hand engine. you might have to flip the input pump cover.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2011 9:41 pm 
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Hp numbers mean jack unless they are from your individual engine, and derived from an average of 3 pulls on a decent dyno. For that matter, if the engine is within 10% of the published numbers it's a bit of a miracle.

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