Glen-L.com

We're getting ready to plan for the deck on our 23' barrel back project. We like being a little different, so our present plan is to cover the deck with lighter deck boards, but separated with a darker wood 1/8'" "caulking" between them, and then glass the deck similar to the top sides.
This is my question;
Is the traditional "caulking" between the deck boards an important step to prevent deck deformation "blow up" from temperature expansion or whatever, or is it more a traditional "look" that many are trying to achieve?
Wouldn't the fiberglass and epoxy encapsulation help to prevent any potential deck expansion issues if there are any?

Thanks for any input,

Grampa Steve

Interesting question Steve. As you know I have dark joints using dyed thickened epoxy. It does expand and contract with the exposure to the sun. I have wondered what would happen if the deck had been glassed. I don't know. It will be interesting to see other comments on this

dave

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
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Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

This may be a silly question as I'm new to the site, but I've often wondered how you can fiberglass over a "natural" wood deck and have the grain show thru so clearly? Miller Custom Boats used to do this back in the day, and I've often wondered how it's done.

On my deck - After all of the planking was in place - I used CPES (2-3 coats) and then varnished with many after that.
I did not glass the deck. The main reason was that if there were any minor issues during glassing - you may see the weave, which would have made me crazy. I also wanted the white caulking with the slight cove as opposed to a perfectly flat surface. The little grooves would not have glassed well.
That said, I have had no issues.
HTH

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Regards,
Bob Perkins

My Current Projects
http://h12restoration.shutterfly.com/
http://nutshellpramconstruction.shutterfly.com/

My Completed project
http://biscayne22.shutterfly.com

Riley,

It's not a silly question. I used to wonder the same thing.

The fiberglass cloth, believe it or not, turns completely clear when it is saturated with epoxy. It is just that amazing. As long as proper care is taken in ensuring that the cloth stays down on thewood and enough coats of epoxy are added on top to make sure the sandpaper does not cut the cloth when sanding, then the cloth is very difficult, if not impossible, to detect.

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Ches

Ches,
How 'heavy' a grade of fiberglass can you go and still be able to make it clear with wet epoxy?
Graham

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I am presently constructing a Glen-L HERCULES, hull basically complete.Am going to fiberglass and paint bottom and then turn over. Sides to be planked with10mm yellow cedar edged bead and cove . Engine is Mitsubihi 4-cyl. 39 crankshaft hp.

Use 4oz cloth - and MAS epoxy if you want it to be perfect.
All the other epoxies are too thick. look at the cedar strip canoe sites. They do this all the time and they do a great job.

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Regards,
Bob Perkins

My Current Projects
http://h12restoration.shutterfly.com/
http://nutshellpramconstruction.shutterfly.com/

My Completed project
http://biscayne22.shutterfly.com

I plan to use 4oz cloth on the deck of my Zip. With a 1/2 inch marine fir subdeck under my meranti strips for the deck, strength is not an issue and a thinner cloth does give a more clear finish. I used 6oz exclusively on my kayak build. (you can see a pic of it in my zip build thread titled "Ches T Zip build") There was no problem (except normal first time builder problems), but the fabric performed flawlessly, in my opinion. I have not used anything heavier than 6oz.

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Ches