Glen-L.com

Ok so I have read over some of the topics from the past covering this but I have a few questions still yet. First off how high roughly should the chine be from the breast hook. All the pictures I have seen show it to be about 6-7" (From what I can tell at least) above the breast hook. Secondly the book says to start bow and move aft which I have no problem doing but how do I start? I am not sure where to clamp the chine to (the height), how to clamp it, and am I just supposed to cut some random angle in the chine to start with or what? Seems like it would be a lot simpler to work stern to bow.

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Why not is why!

Clamp your chines in the notches at the frames with a few inches hanging past the transom.

follow along up to the stem clamping as you go (light clamping cause at this point you probably have not faired the notches for a nice landing of the chine....that'll come next)bring the chine around, letting the chine flow,it'll find a nice place to land at the stem.

I hold the chine at this height, and twist, and use a miter-box saw,or back saw and cut the approx angle on the chine based on eyeballing with the stem.

You may have to move the chine aft slightly in the clamps ,and final sand and fair to get a good fit at the stem.

then you trim at the transom to fit in the notch. Do the same to the other side,eyeballing the chines (and measuring) to make sure they curve and land similar.

study the booklet that came with your plans, they show this

http://www.glen-l.com/methods/plywood/mthdpw03.html

http://www.glen-l.com/methods/plywood/mthdpw04.html

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

The height varies from boat to boat....some have it higher than others.

here's two Squirt builds by the same people at the same time that illustrate this:

http://www.glen-l.com/picboards/picboard9/pic519a.html

let your chines be your guide you to where they want to flow!!

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Ok I decided to laminate the chines in three layers just because I was getting mad fighting them I could have probably done it in two layers but I figured what screw with it. Does it look right?

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Why not is why!

Nice looking work so far,,, That corkscrew twist in the foward section drives a lot of folks nuts in the early going for sure. When you get all the laminated in place the shape will also improve over the one thinner piece. It may just be the angle of the picture. But I would double check the measurement of both chines from the transom foward to the junction of the stem. Measure each frame on both sides along the chines too. In the shot looking from the stem aft, it almost appears that the stem has a wee bit of a left alignment to all of the frames and keel. Maybe run a string at the floor position along the centerline starting at the transom centerline to the stem top at the floor and see if the string along the way plumbs up to the center of the keel.

I think its the angle of the pic. I have triple checked the stem because I thought the same thing you did.

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Why not is why!

Also be sure the chines dont bend inward between the stem and the frame aft of the stem. It may also be the picture but it looks like it bows inward a little about a foot aft of the stem, you want it to bow outward only or your planking will dish inward also, that happened to me.

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It does dish in ever so slightly. I am going to laminate the rest up and see how it turns out and if I need to shim it. Also I think the dish is created by the way I have it attached at the moment. I and going to fix that too.

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Why not is why!

Blazing fast progress Static!!!

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

I have a very understanding wife MOST of the time so I get to work on it a lot. I also get off work before she does 3 days a week so I have time while she isn't home to work on it. I would guess that the process will come to quite the slow down when I hit the fairing process as it will suck. Having done body work and bed liners in the past I can say with 100% certainty that I hate sanding with a passion. I am just keeping myself motivated by looking at pictures of finished boats and that seems to work.

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Why not is why!

A power planer and belt sander will make short work of the fairing process. I think you'll be surprised how fast it'll go.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

that boat is smaller than a crx you should have it knocked out in an hour or so the build is taking shape and kooking good keep up the good work and thanks for posting pics