Glen-L.com

I'm excited!..and somewhat perplexed/nervous...I want to build a boat for my grandson but in no way shape or form want to put him or anyone else in danger..is this wood acceptable? Sandeply hardwood plywood from Home Dep..or would Red Oak domestic plywood be better? The STORE touts both to be furniture grade..cabinet grade ..instrument grade?..

This question comes up all the time. So don't feel like the lone ranger. Most of the big box hardwood plywood does not always have exterior glue in the laminates. The problem with most of the alternative 1/4" plywood or simular 6mm stuff is that the amount of cores are less and the actual core material is common. Take a good look at the end grain and see what you have. If you are not sure take a picture and post it here of a close up of the end grain. Most of the three ply stuff has a really fat inner core with very thin face veneer in the three ply which makes the plywood very weak too. I buy some of the big box 1/4 called Super Ply which is has some value as its sold for a good skin under flooring materials in bathrooms. While I use it for some applications I normally do not use any as a stand alone panels for any boat.

At the end of the day, seek out the known and recognized types as the price of plywood while varies all over the place is the least of the costs and can save you a lot of additional work down the road when going on the cheap as its known on the core materials. The labor and the steps are the same and in some cases some of the inferior quality stuff will create more work.

Seek out wood beginning at the local cabinet shop and see if they can ship in several pieces with their order as this can save some shipping costs. I also suggest to people new to the process to use some of the cheaper stuff to make patterns or even get familiar with how and what wood does in the area of bending and shaping in certain directions, which is completely different from most all home projects that most are familiar with. Thats money well spent too as a learning tool before cutting the good stuff.

While you may be able to use some of HD's plywood for parts of the topside, I'd never think of using their stuff for a hull.
Based on the Glen-L distributors list, there's a lumber place in Albuquerque: http://www.glen-l.com/resources/lumber- ... rs.html#NM
Give them a call, and see if they can help you.

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Jeff

My Celerity build.

Truman,
I built my mini tug using ACX Arauco Plywood from a local big box Manards. It bent around the sharp curves well and it's exterior rated. I liked it so well I'm using it now on my 20' houseboat. Keep it simple or it becomes work. Also keep in mind that the stitch and glue boats are VERY forgiving. So grab some wood and get to cutting

Btown

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Anywhere But Down
http://dansboathouse.blogspot.com/

I received my plans today ...I hope everything is in there, it appears UPS has several cats working for them..The BIG yellow envelope is shredded and taped back together I just finished reading "Building the Tubby Tug"..and I can't tell ya how glad I am that others have posted detailed pics of their builds! I believe that I will pick up a dictionary while out looking for supplies..(maybe I can find one with pics)

Many thanks for the suggestions on plywood(s)..I will see if I can take pics of the end grain for opinion(s)..What scared me was reading about other builders paying $600 a sheet for okoume? Maybe I misread, maybe they paid that much to cover the entire boat..Looks like I can buy okoume in Albuquerque for about $75.00 sheet (sounds expensive to me, but probably worth it)..

I want to install a trolling motor with forward controls (steering wheel and "throttle")..throttle seems easy using a potentiometer (or is that already built into the motor?), looking at others steering controls, left and right is ok..but how do you achieve reverse? I think it can be achieved using automotive relays (but why re-invent the wheel if someone has already done it).

$75 a sheet for 3,4,5 mm sounds about right. I paid $105 for 1/2 okume (actually a bit less than 1/2 but I cant remember the MM for that one) I thought it was great to work with.

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John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Winter Haven, FL

Maybe it will be done by G6 and maybe not.

well I still suggest that you find some of the cheaper 1/4 inch stock and practice your cutting. For anyone that is new to the game, this really gives you a great perspective of the build, even sitting things up 3-d. When you are done with the templete and learning tool for the hull panels, you can also use the pieces as templete making material for the inside pieces too, getting things fitted properly and then transfering the shapes to the good stock. Good luck and sorry about the UPS cats.

Truman,
Converting a trolling motor for the Tug is quite easy, I first installed a short piece of galvanized pipe thru the bottom, I then removed the top part of the trolling motor, then I ran the wires and shaft up thru the pipe using the end caps and rubber bushings off of a compression coupling to seal it off, put it back together so I could run it to see where I needed to cut the shaft.

There is a simple switch in the top of the motor that controls speed and direction. I mounted mine in a box on the port side to give me true action and made a handle with set screw to make it work.

I then made a wooden tiller arm with set screw to attach to the shaft and teleflex steering system.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

I used the superply underlayment plywood for my Tubby. That was almost 4 years ago. The boat gets used regularly - especially at the Gatherings - and has held up well. It tends to bend easier in one direction more than the other. So if you use it make sure you match the bending characteristics in the panels opposite each other.

I also used an "inboard" trolling motor set up. The reverse is accomplished with the controls in the head of the trolling motor. No need to buy anything additional.

Good luck,

KB

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"I'm not trying to get it perfect. I'm trying to get it finished!"
Squirt Build: http://www.tubbytug.com/SquirtHome.html

Oyster, I agree with you...HD has some cheap cheap plywood..I believe I can build the entire boat for less than 2 sheets of Okoume..and part of my choice of building the tug first was to gain experience before building MY boat..I believe I will build 2 tugs side by side..practice building one, gain experience for the other...maybe I'll make a flower bed out of the "cheap" one..or set it afloat and shoot flaming arrows into it..I hope I'm not breaking any rules..one set of plans, one boat.

Sounds like you all have the kinks worked out of the steering and fwd/reverse...now I have to build the boat..feel like Im putting the cart before the horse asking these questions..Kinda like chess, thinking 3 moves ahead..

Thinking three moves ahead!!! now you have it!!! That's boat building!!!

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Here they are!!!

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Ok..probably a stupid question but since the envelope was tore to shreds when the plans were delivered...and I have read and re-read everything I received..Is there supposed to be an instruction sheet guiding me through the building process..i.e. After cutting board(s) attach "widget" A to "widget" B then attach C and so on..Because either I'm drinking to many refreshments while reading or I'm missing something..

Truman,
There should be an instruction manual that has "Building The Tubby Tug" in bold print on the cover.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!