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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 2:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 05, 2009 12:18 pm
Posts: 587
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Finally finished fabricating the floor. Now that I see how little room there is under the rear seat I shall use that space for semi-permanent floatation, and likely add some more semi-permanent floatation on the back of the rear seat back.

Have made sure cruiser fuel tank can fit forward of frame 4, forward of frame 2, or beneath motor/splash well - whichever works best on eventual sea trials for best planing/speed.

Thanks for all the earlier feedback on my dash design dilema. I'm now pretty sure I will go with centered gauge cluster, which leaves me the option of installing them in a 'removeable' panel as somebody suggested. SWMBO says she likes the flip up/down switch panel concept, so with a little 'tweaking' hopefullly I can make it work to my satisfaction. The dashboard will be cut down to the top of the blue tape so it's not so 'bulky'. A happy wife makes for a happy life!

Once I get the floor out and epoxied etc. I'll just have to finish the dash and the floatation fore and aft and I'll be ready to clear coat the interior. Perhaps as a Christmas present to myself, could be too optomistic a date to shoot for but worth a try.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
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Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Where can I get those guages?

Bill

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 2:12 pm 
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Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
I can make you a custom set of gauges to match for a hefty price.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 2:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 5:17 pm
Posts: 399
Wow GD,
That floor is nice! I like the way you've curved it to the natural shape of the hull. Also, I like the slat style back seat. Always good to leave the spaces so the water can get out. Great positioning on your controls! Gonna be a nice boat.
Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 5:48 pm 
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Location: Indy
I like the planks going across, man thats a lot of planks. Do you have them tied together with battens underneath or are they each individually installed? Its going to look even better when coated. Having the area forward of frame 4 empty gets your feet low which will be more comfortable than a flat floor continued forward like mine is, my heels get sore after a while but if your passengers have been drinking be careful on the sloped floor. :P

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 6:45 pm 
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Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Each plank is individually cut and fit and screwed to the batten stiffeners/strongbacks. The plus is that the planks are a hair less than 5/16" thick, but with the battens roiughly 6" on center, they are plenty strong enough. I figure a minimum 50% weight saving over a 'conventional' 3/4" thick deck boards. The center section is flat and only curves up toward the sides. I need the section forward of frame 4 needs to be low as my seats are LOW!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 6:34 am 
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Location: East Troy, Wisconsin
Lookin' Good, GD!!!

Roberta :D :D :D :D

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Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:08 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:47 am
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Location: North Georgia / Chattanooga Area
Wow! That flooring looks great!

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:48 am 
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Location: south australia
She's lookin' beaut!
I don't really talk like that - but we love to amuse you Americans.
[quote][/quote]
I voted too.
In terms of practicality, as well as aesthetics, I believe ( and obviously others ) that the centre cluster is the best choice. Happy to vote in a real democracy :? :lol: :oops: :roll: :( :x :roll:
Oh, and keeping the Mrs happy, don't ask me, especially if she has a clone (daughter/apprentice). That's twice as hard at least :lol:
Still trying to get her everything she wants without her knowing :twisted:
Beautiful work, looking forward to the launch pics.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 5:08 pm 
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Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
No offense taken re amusing Americans. Being a displaced Canadian who happens to live in Raleigh NC - I'm probably more closely related to you Aussies than my neighbours. Eh!

I kept resisting the 'centered' gauges, wanted to be 'different' (life long problem but we won't get into all that here) - sometimes takes me a long time to accept that there are reasons it's usually done one way, and that doing it another way just to be different is - well - shall we say 'different'.

Will have to do quite a bit more 'toying ' with the flip down/up dash to get it to work for me, missus aside, though for someone who is part Irish, part German, and part Hungarian there's not all that much stubborness in her --- MUCH! Can't imagine trying to satisfy two of them!!!!!

Launch looong way off, hopefully some time next summer/fall.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:42 am 
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Location: Lander Wyoming
You are going to resist covering anything with epoxy because you will begin to think that it will ruin your craftsmanship! You might just want to keep everything natural and never put that thing in the water! Just roll it out in the driveway every now and then!....or drive it to the boat ramp and just let it sit there for a while! :wink: :wink: That looks great! (You might want to put some saran wrap over those gauges though! :roll: :roll: )


Reading your blog I love the fact that you used the half-lap joints in the framing. I think it is a much better "looking" job and is very professional. My only concern, as is yours I am sure, is: will they hold up over time. I think the gusset provides most of the strength, however, once all of the parts come together I still think it will be fine. Gussets provide for additional grain orietation to gain even more strength. When you look at structural framing members in a house, trusses for instance, the gussets provide all of the strength practically. (Some of the gussets are metal nailing plates). The butt joints of the timbers are actually engineered to allow for gaps because the nail plate/gussets provide so much of the strength.

In the end I like your method for aethestics and size considerations. I wish someone would do an actual engineered load test on the two different style frames to prove what the actual difference in strength would be and find out what the failure mode would be with each design, that way others could incorporate the same method into their builds with total confidence.

Hell, I can't build a good dog house so I am impressed with all of it!

Great job! ....

Steve


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 3:45 pm 
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Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Thanks for the feedback and thoughts. I've use a lot of half lap joints in various uses as a carpenter and have a lot of faith in them. In essence you have crossed grain in the half lap, the two pieces joined are essentially at ninety degrees to each other, but as you say the proof is in the pudding. Given their location and their stresses, from an non=professional engineering standpoint, I'm 'betting the boat' that they will work. And I HATE TRUSSES in construction, although I realize they serve a purpose, but I would never have the dang things in any house I build!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 5:15 pm 
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Location: Lander Wyoming
Hahaha..I know what you mean about the trusses. I dislike them as well, but I guess they have a place in some construction. The same "technology" is used in some of the silent floor systems. I just hate that they waste so much usable space.

I don't think you will have a bit of a problem with those frames, that is why I would love someone to do a stress test or engineering test on them to prove it to all of us, because it makes such a better looking project in the end. I love the craftsmanship of standard woodworking joints. ''

Keep those pictures coming, that is a great build!

Steve


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 2:38 am 
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Location: Spring TX
GD C, I ain't sure you're gunna like that floor being screwed down. Once you get pu pu in the bilge and you want to clean it out, crap normally plugs up the Limbers in the bilge. It's just been my experience in boats over the years, it's nice to be able to get to the Limbers in the bilge when cleaning... If one plugs up then as you know, the water will just flow over the frame... That was one thing that I really liked about Dave Lott's build, the removable center floor boards. Others have done it but his were really nice.

Have a read on what Mr. Glen had to say in here..... http://www.glen-l.com/weblettr/weblette ... ter92.html

Your floor does look good though! :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2011 7:03 am 
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Location: tarpon springs fl
One thing I have heard of is to fasten a cord loosely at both ends running through the limbers.

This way if they clog up with simple dirt& small stuff,you can just work the cord some to loosen up the stuff and get the water flowing again.

Haven't tried it, but sounds reasonable for limited access places

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