Glen-L.com

Just playing around with my new toy. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Click on the link.
Thanks,
Jim

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDnuXpXojZw

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RetroMan
Built A Zip/Flying Saucer. I do my boating on South Oyster Bay, Long Island, NY
Documenting my build on YouTube @ http://www.youtube.com/SuperUnknownMC

Jim, I use Boesheild T-9 spray for anti-corrosion.....just spray it on everything under the hood and let dry

http://www.pronto.com/user/search.do?di ... reativeid={creative}&site={placement}&loadingComplete=true&owl=false&obl=false

West Marine has it, and other places.

As far as the negative trim,you have enough....I would go up in height some on the motor, and trim the motor out using the tilt pin,I'd start with the cavitation plate even and parallel to the bottom.....take it out and play with it!!!

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Jim,

As set up, you definetly have negative trim going on. Try the 2ed and 3rd holes until your straight edge is dead even with the cav plate. Then shim up the motor until top edge of straight edge is even with the bottom edge of the cavitation plate. This is a good starting point for performance. Once in the water, you'll be able to determine correct trim by experimentation. I like to be familiar with two tilt settings. Out as far as possible (one hole in from where the bow won't hold steady) for calm days when you aren't fighting rough water.) and one in far enough to push the bow down into the rough water when on plane. This'll give a smoother ride on those nasty days.

You (and your powder coat guy) are doing a great job.

Randy

Jim, what prop came with the motor.....2 or 3 blade?

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Since you play around in the salt, you must fight corrosion all the time--Do as Warren says and get some of that stuff from West Marine and use it frequently. I can't tell you how many salty dogs I've had to smash apart with a big hammer to get at the moving parts.

Get some of that thread release compound at the car parts store and put it on every nut and bolt you think you might ever want to remove. Make sure you get it on those coverplates on top of the water pump and on the end of the gearcase. You must keep the salt out of the threads.

If that waterjacket is damaged, I have a good one. That jacket is the one that's easy to remove--both nuts and bolts are exposed.

I believe your motor came with a 2 blade prop. I'm saving a 3 blader for you if the prop you have won't let the motor come up to speed. When you get an alternator on that motor, you'll be able to get a tachometer that works with it from West Marine for about $75.00. You'll need it!

Randy

Randy, have you ever used a Tiny Tack on these or a Mark 25?

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

I've never used a Tiny Tach. I have an inductive timing tachometer that I take out with customer's boats that I'm propping. Works with 2,4, and 6 cylinder motors off a spark plug. Mine cost about $75.00 10 (or so) years ago.

Jim,

It's been correctly pointed out to me that I might be leading you guys to raggedy edge trim and hight setups that could be dangerous to your and your boat's health.

I have, quite literally 1000s of hours spent in high performance runabouts, many of them in racing setups, over the past 50 years. I look for control synptoms as I go through trim proceedures. I recognize trim problems before they adversely effect boat handling and correct for them.

Your Flying Saucer powered with the Mark 55 is going to be capable of high performance. Any high performance boat trimmed to the max can have control issues which, if not corrected immediately can put you out of control. A hand on the throttle is just as important as a hand on the steering wheel. If you find your boat getting squirlly, back off the throttle immediately and you'll get positive control back.

I don't believe angle trimming will be any problem as long as you approach max positive angle trim with caution. Too much positive angle gives excessive bow rise on the hole shot and the bow never settles down. It feels wrong right away and is no fun. Real control problems can rear their ugly head as you approach maximum hight relative to the cav plate and the bottom of the boat. Looks like your set up as is will place the plate about an inch below the boat's bottom. This is a good place to start. Get to know your boat pretty well before you start shimming the outboard up on the transom. As you come up, the boat will lift further out of the water and your control at wide open throttle will become less positive and your boat will become more sensitive to the water conditions. Your final hight will be a compromise between acceleration (out of the hole) and top speed. The higher and faster you go, the more handling will become an issue and your hole shot will suffer. A good hole shot is part of the performance package and if you go too high, your prop will suck air and cavitate.

Any maximum must be approached with caution and experience. You guys be careful!

Randy

For checking Revs I use this one http://www.buyamower.co.uk/zoom/30544.aspx

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The Bitterness of Poor Quality, Remains Long After The Sweetness of Cut Price is Forgotten...Thanks Dad R.I.P.

For whatever it's worth here's information from the original owners manual for my Mark 35A. Interesting how high they say you can raise the motor.

Merc. also 'specs' out a 12 degree transom tilt for my engine.

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This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

Pics of two props for a Mark 25....one a two blade 9.5" pitch


One a three blade 9" pitch


The number after the dash after the part number, on a Quicksilver (Mercury) prop, shows the pitch

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream