Glen-L.com

Lookin' Good. I put a "T" in my keel to make it more rigid and to keep it more flat. I dado'd a groove in the center of the keel and glued in a 3/4" X 2" web for about 8 feet of the length aft of frame 4. In retrospect, it might be better to bend the keel from the front to back to minimize the bowing or lifting in the fulcrum points.

Don't forget to trim your build frame to allow the planking to fit around frame 5 1/2.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Ah, I didnt realize your keel wasnt glued yet, that makes the taper easy.

Looking great, if any bit of a hump is left near frame 4 it can be faired out later. When running on plane my Zip and the other Zip's at the Gathering only the section of the boat from about a foot aft of frame 4 and back is in the water, so be sure that is flat as I'm sure you already know. You can see it clearly on this pic of DBSkier's Zip. https://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Ga ... 6716584210

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My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Thanks guys/gals, I appreciate the input.

I just noticed something that I hope is not too critical, please let me know what you think ....When building my frame members, I thought it would be a good idea to precut the notches for the chines and shears. I just roughly fit the chines into place and saw the error in my ways. My notches are cut perpendicular to the frame member. However, when bending the chine, it now (obviously) rests on only a portion/edge of the frame notch. I should have cut the notches to more closely follow the shape/contour of the chine. The angle that I should have cut for the notch would not have been obvious when building the frames but is apparent when the chine is fitted. I think I can use thickened epoxy to fill in the space between the chine and the frame/chine notch. Anyone have experience with this issue? Thanks!

You really don't want the chine hitting a frame on a hard edge. You can do one of two things (or both). Either continue cutting the frame to get the chine to land properly then fair the leading edge of the frames to match or glue in some wedges and refair for the chine. Make sense?

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

You will need to fair the edges of the frame members to follow the contour of the chines and shears, so the notches can also be faired the same way so you shouldn't have a big gap in the notches. Unless you have already glued the longitudinals in place, just fair the notches to coincide with them. Then you will see what needs to be faired on the edges of the frames. The object of fairing is to get everything smoothed out so subsequent layers will lay flat and true on the substrate.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Thanks ttownshaw and Roberta. I guess I didn't think about fairing the notches, but that makes sense. It will only make a small difference in the amount of fairing required on the frames. Also, thanks for the superfast response!

I did the same thing on my build if it makes you feel any better.

_________________
My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Chris, how did you fix....shim or fair???

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

a little of both, I put a small shim in, about 1/4" tall and the same size as the notch, faired most of it off on the forward half with a file and then installed the chine and used a healthy dose of thickened epoxy and a wedge to fill the rest of the backside of the void.

_________________
My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Chris,
Actually, it does make me feel better, Thanks! And thanks again everyone for the advice

I think a little fairing, a shim, and some thick epoxy is in order. I dry fit the chines in place. I did not laminate, but used 3/4 x 2 (net) african mahogany. A little persuasion, some leverage, and I got them to bend/twist into place. A friend of mine helped hold them in place while I marked and cut them (thanks Jim). They are clamped in place and I am soaking the area where there is the most stress. I am curious to see if they relax a little once wetted and then dried.

I also ordered 7 sheets (1 for good luck!) of 1/4" hydrotek. I ordered it from a place in Michigan called LL Johnson Lumber Mfg. Co. The sheets were $42 each and it was $167 delivered to my garage. I talked to them on Tuesday Morning around 10 am, the package was picked up there yesterday, and is now in my garage. I contemplated driving 3 hours each way to a place in Ohio, but figured with gas, tolls, and time, I was way ahead paying the delivery cost. If anyone is interested, they were really nice and knowledgeable and really fast. Highly recommended.

A few low quality (camera phone) photos below...

Looking very good!!! LL Johnson was where I bought all my wood and ply. Good people! Did you work with Chris Fletcher? 7 sheets will do it, but be very frugal with your cutting because you will have no waste or room for error.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

The rep I talked with was Earl Breen. I wouldn't hesitate to contact him again if I ever needed anything else. Roberta, now you scared me, "No waste or room for error...." Hah, I should have ordered 9 sheets!

Seven sheets will do it, but you you will need to plan out your cuts and be careful. Some cuts will need to be slightly diagonal, so don't rip a sheet in half hoping to cover two planks. Measure the planks and fit them carefully on the sheets. I did the bottom in three 4 x 8 sheets, the sides can be done in two, leaving you two for the deck, which should be adequate doing the twin cockpit. You will have to piece in the parts for the aft cockpit. I believe I did the deck in 6 parts. I used the two full sheets to plank the front and used the salvage to plank the aft portion along with some scrap from the sheets used on the bottom. Take a look at my build.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Not too much progress to report. The chines are permanently attached and I fastened the first sheer lamination on one side of the boat (with screws). Maybe tonight I can attach the other (then remove) and then epoxy them. For me, the sheers are a lot easier to attach than the chines. The chines had to bend and twist where as the sheer only needs to bend in one direction. Also, the angle to cut on the sheer can be set without having to bend the sheer into place (and it can be marked and cut away from the boat) which makes it way easier than trying to bend/twist/mark/cut the chine. One cut of the sheer and you have a perfect fit).

Sawford,how is your breasthook attached to the blocking?

I only see two screws down into the blocking on the form. If this is the case, you need to fasten some blocking to the form's center brace behind the breast hook, then run screws parallel to the floor into the rear of the breasthook,then remove the down screws that you have now.

If you don't,you won't be able to remove the down screws after the plywood planking is installed when you are ready to flip the boat!!

Nice job on the chines & shears

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream