Building a Squirt

kic259 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:22 pm

Mike,
I have not built a squirt (or any framed boat) yet. However I do have the plans for one. Everything I have read and seen imdicates that the frame should be assembled prior to the assembly to the build form and stem. If the frame is a mirror image on the centre line then the only adjustment that you should need to make when you assmble to the form and stem is that it is square to the form and the sheer and chine points are the same distance from the vertical reference.

KC

J Clark · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:28 pm

I would go ahead and glue it up to match your building jig. It's more important that the frame matches the layout. You can always file or shim if needed when you set up the frame with the stem. One thing... be sure you glue that deck member on the forward side of frame #2, otherwise it will be in the way of the building form during setup.

jprice · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 3:57 am

BarnacleMike wrote:

So, here's the question: Should I assemble the frame now, and then fit the stem to it later? Or, should I wait until the stem and the building form are made, and then assemble the frame and stem together? My main concern is whether or not I'll have enough latitude to adjust & align the frame as needed once everything goes to the building form.

I agree with J Clark. You want the frames to match the plans as accurately as possible. You can (and likely will) make adjustments during assembly.
Plus it's a lot easier to work on a flat surface. Personally, I think trying to assemble the frame and stem together while on the form would exceedingly frustrating.

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:02 am

The frame pieces are set plumb and square to the build form. Once those are set the stem and breasthook assembly is set and the height of the breasthook is set with blocking on the Zip. If the stem is assembled to the frame prior to the frames being set on the build form, there is a possibility that attaining the prescribed height of the breasthook could throw off the plumb of the frame. I think the stem should be mounted to the frame after the frames are set on the build form and everything squared up on it. That is how I built the Zip. Make sure you have centerlines marked on all the pieces and along the floor for reference. Squares and levels are also helpful.

Roberta

BarnacleMike · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:26 am

Thanks everyone! I got the frame assembled last night. Everything went together pretty well, although some of my cuts for the bottom battens on the backing piece were a little off. So, my next step will be filing & sanding those to match the cuts in the frame floor members.

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:55 am

Looking at your blog, your framing looks really nice and neat, but I don't see any glue oozing out. I hope you did use epoxy in all the joints.

Roberta

BarnacleMike · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:42 am

Hi Roberta,

I haven't actually glued the pieces together just yet. My plan is to "pre-assemble" the frames and smooth out the edges of mating pieces. Then, once I've purchased the epoxy (looking strongly at West 105 system), I'll disassemble the frames, encapsulate all the parts, then "glue and screw" them back together.

-Michael

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Wed Dec 07, 2011 12:21 pm

105 is fine but you should use a thickener with it for joints. Glen L's Poxygrip is nice as it is very transparent and has the thickeners in it. The color will match well with their Poxyshield. I would sand the outside edges of the plywood gussets after gluing up the frames. A belt sander will sand them nice and flush with the edges of the frame members once everything is all cured. Wouldn't hurt to do the inside edges before assembly, though.

Roberta

BarnacleMike · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:15 am

Merry Christmas, fellow Glen-L'ers! I was laying out my Glen-L plans in the living room floor this weekend to trace out the transom frame members. I thought I'd take a photo of it & post here to wish you all a Merry Christmas.

I've got the transom frame members cut out now. Next I've got to get some epoxy and some 3/4" plywood.

On the topic of the transom... The plans call for 1/2" plywood for the transom and 3/4 plywood for the motor board. Would there be any harm in building them BOTH from 3/4" plywood? Some of the threads I've read on transoms give me the impression that transoms benefit from being "beefed-up" a bit. But how much is enough? How much is too much?

Also, once the transom pieces are assembled, what's the best way to cut the 12 degree bevel? I don't have a table saw, but if that's the only realistic option I can buy one.

jeffh · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:54 am

I'm one of the guys who had to beef up my transom. I hung a new and heavy E-TEC 90HP on the back. Another Malahini owner in the Atlanta area also used a newer 60HP Yamaha and he cracked his transom somehow. In my case, the boat was basically finished when I discovered I needed some extra strength. The way it was built, I still think I would have been OK (others may agree when they see it), but I wanted to take no chances. My center knee was already oversized. So based on some suggestions from a few members, I built two additional braces that are 2" thick. They run from a batten all the way up to the top of the transom and then forward to the first brace. They are epoxied, bolted at the transom and bottom and fiberglassed.

If you are planning to stay within the suggested power rating for the Squirt, you'll probably be OK. That boat is so compact that it seems that everything would be connected as if it is one piece. There are a LOT of Squirts out there. I've seen some for sale that are >20yrs old.

I also saw your posts regarding epoxy. Before buying a large amount, you may want to be sure you aren't allergic. I used to not have problems with the stuff, but I have become sensitized to it. My eyes itch terribly and my throat gets really sore. I have to wear a respirator and goggles when working with even the smallest amounts now.

Iggy · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:12 am

I beefed up my Malahini transom 2" thick (from 1.5") between my motorwell supports as I am hanging a 235# / 90 HP Mariner off the back. I think so long as you don't go overboard with the weight/HP, a minor beefing up of the design specs for the transom will probably do the trick.

I am curious who the boat owner was in Atlanta who had issues with a Malahini transom and a 60 HP Yami on the back? Malahini specs show up to 85 HP, short leg. I've seen ShaneD's ZIP with a newer 50 HP Merc unit hung off the back with no issues (so far).

Personally I have a lot of trust in the Glen-L designers that they didn't under-design the transom per spec. I am betting its more the builders/owners who get into trouble with design changes (no motor well or no knee support) or overpowering the boat engine.

But I don't think anyone would give you a hard time about adding a bit more thickness to the transom. It has to absorb a lot over its lifetime, so an additional 1/4" or 1/2" is not a lot of weight or cost in the big picture.

As far as transom angle, I left about 3/8" 'extra' on the bottom and faired the angle at the same time as I faired the chines and sheers. I used an angle grinder with sanding disk attachment for rough, then power plainer/belt sander to clean it true.

jeffh · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 12:05 pm

My transom is 1.75" thick and then I have all the extra bracing. My E-TEC weighs 320lbs :shock:

Jerry Lindamood in TX has a Merc 115HP on his Malahini. It looks really cool in the photos I've seen. It's one of the tall ones.

upspirate · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 12:23 pm

BarnacleMike wrote:

Merry Christmas, fellow Glen-L'ers! I was laying out my Glen-L plans in the living room floor this weekend to trace out the transom frame members. I thought I'd take a photo of it & post here to wish you all a Merry Christmas.

I've got the transom frame members cut out now. Next I've got to get some epoxy and some 3/4" plywood.

On the topic of the transom... The plans call for 1/2" plywood for the transom and 3/4 plywood for the motor board. Would there be any harm in building them BOTH from 3/4" plywood? Some of the threads I've read on transoms give me the impression that transoms benefit from being "beefed-up" a bit. But how much is enough? How much is too much?

Also, once the transom pieces are assembled, what's the best way to cut the 12 degree bevel? I don't have a table saw, but if that's the only realistic option I can buy one.

I don't see any problem with building it up with 3/4 instead of 1/2.....it's not that much more weight,but it's probably not necessary.

If you build in a motor well, it'll add strength and a little weight too,+ extra weight from 3/4,+ weight from a 4 stroke if you go to a newer 4 stroke motor

What engine are you going to use? 4 strokes are heavier than 2 strokes.

What length are you building......10' as designed,or stretched to 11' ? (I highly recommend 11'....I've ridden in both, and the 11' gives you a much more usable boat.....I'll be building mine 11')

BarnacleMike · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 12:52 pm

I am building it to 11', and I'm also planning to build a motor well.

As for the motor, I'm not entirely sure just yet. Depends on what I can find/afford. However, I'm NOT trying to build a rocket here, so it definitely won't be 25hp. Maybe 15hp tops. Primarily, I've been looking at the 9.9 hp motors.

The specs call for "up to 10 hp" but I don't know if a 5 hp would do the job or not. I'm 5'11" & on the north side of 210, so I have my doubts that a 5hp would be enough... but perhaps I'm wrong. I've been out with another adult on a 14' boat with a 7hp Suzuki motor. That was adequate, but then again it was an aluminum boat...

J Clark · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:10 pm

You can pick up old 15 hp johnson/evinrude/OMC for a song. I picked up a 9hp for $200 and since this squirt is for my little girl I didn't want too much power just yet :wink:

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