Glen-L.com

I believe the brush in this video is not foam....looks like bristle to me!!

The pros I've talked to all recommend good bristle brushes to tip off

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
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I will say this, having used both the SM product and the Interlux brightsides shown in the video on my kayak bottom, the interlux really is as easy as he makes it look. You simply can not get the same results with SM. To get the same smooth finish with SM you would have to wetsand and buff it like Ted G did but thats a ton of work and you will lose a little bit of the gloss.

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"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

OK, here's an update on my SM1000 adventure. I finally finished sanding the failed first attempt at paint down almost to the primer, and laid down the first coat of new paint using the technique recommended above in this thread. First coat looks really good! I probably went a little too thin at first (almost translucent) but once the roller got a bit more loaded with paint I as able to apply it very thinly (but not too thin). I am happy to say that I got the "squeak" from the foam brush as Bergy pointed out! In fact, I used this to tell when I had a little too much paint on and I'd spread it out a little more.

I think I'm going to give it a day in between each coat, and use the scotch brite and tack cloth as Bergy recommended...

Did you try the SM160 Accelerator/Hardener? I don't have any experience with it, but from the write-up it may help with the cure process.

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"It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years."
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I thought about it, but at this point I decided to not introduce another variable. Using the technique we've discussed in this thread, how much time do you think I should allow the hull to dry after the last coat before I consider flipping it and putting it on bunks? I've been thinking of allowing 10 days to be safe.

I figured I could always wet sand and polish the sides of the boat later after its flipped. (My whole hull is painted.)

That should be plenty of time. I don't think I waited that long. I flipped it in the cradle with pipe insulation for cushion. Followed the hull contour up to the rub rail. No marks when I put it on the trailer.

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"It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years."
Abraham Lincoln

did you really use SM1000 paint to dampen the tack rag, or did you use the SM101 thinner?

I think I waited 2 days between coats and 5-7 days before flipping onto the trailer. It was winter so it cured in cool temps.

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"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

I used the residual on the stick I used to stir the thinned SM1000.

_________________
"It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years."
Abraham Lincoln

Interesting. I've been using the tack cloth you buy at home depot.

ive never heard of putting any paint or thinner on a tac rag but you can have issues if you press down to hard when wipeing the surface you can inadvertantly leave rosin behinde that can cause fish eyes

Oops, I didn't put SM1000 on a 'tac' rag, I made a tac rag with a clean rag and a very small amount of the SM1000. I have never used a purchased tac rag. Too cheap.

_________________
"It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years."
Abraham Lincoln

I'm finding that after each coat I tend to have some small bumps here and there (in addition to other dust in paint) that the scotch brite (green) doesn't really remove. So, I've been lightly hand sanding with 500 grit on a rubber sanding block between coats. Then I scuff with the scotch brite and then wipe with tack cloth.

I have relatively dusty conditions, so maybe others didn't have to deal with this.

I sanded with 400 on the barrier coats. Didn't need to on the top coat. I did mix in small batches and wipe with the rag just prior to coating.

_________________
"It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years."
Abraham Lincoln

I also painted in dusty area. I used the Duplicolor tack cloth from the auto paint section of Meijer, I bet wal-mart has em too. I have since started using cheese cloth with a little dab of the thinner to wipe the dust away. I let it fully dry before painting and wipe with a dry cheese cloth right before applying the paint. I was happy how much those methods limited the particles in the paint. Little hairs bothered me more than dust, paint without a shirt on (well, if you are a really hairy-manly chest guy that may not work but with my young rippling bod it worked well ), its amazing how much crap comes off your shirt into the paint surface.

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"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."