Glen-L.com

I use just about every kind of brush known to mankind. If I absolutely gotta have the right brush and will not accept anything less, I buy this brand. The story behind this family run business is quite an incredible one too. UPSpirate can probably tell you some local outfits that you may find them sold at down your way. I know he has purchased them too and love the varnish ones, either the Ox Hair or the Europas.

http://www.coronabrushes.com/corona/ind ... t=showHome

For varnishes I choose one of the two following links.


http://www.coronabrushes.com/corona/ind ... ries&id=15

The Europa

http://www.coronabrushes.com/corona/ind ... ries&id=16

My favorite all time brush is the Urethaner. I brush two part paints with these and have used them for over 20 years now.

http://www.coronabrushes.com/corona/ind ... eriesId=14

If my surface is slick and primed and ready, i apply a coat and let cure. I then use a fine scotch pad or 220 and lightly scuff it up and then apply another coat. I then let sit for two days, of course depending on the temperature outside and then I sand smoothe and repeat the process, finishing up with 280 for the final coat.

Bob,
I have limited experiece with Brightsides one part, but I'm highly pleased with the results. I used it to paint the cockpit and trim on the Kidyak. I used 4" foam rollers from HD and as Oyster said it goes on thin, I think I stopped at 5 coats, sanding with 220 between each. Remember to use a respirator.
Here is a picture of the cockpit done and one coat on the trim.

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Thanks for the advice Oyster and Grand Chillin. I have seen two part paints have you had any experience with that type?

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.

While we still brush Awlgrip, the best brushing two part paint that I have used is Sterling. This is what I used way back in the 1980s with the Urethaner brushes and cannot be more happy. We used to brush 50 footers and had no problems with even roll and tipping. But with your boat size, brushing it is a breeze. If you are painting inside, make sure a respirator is used. Their primers are great too. The stuff is not cheap though but no diffferent than all the other brands that can only be applied as a rule with a sprayer. Avaliability is a bit of a issue. But ask your marine supplier if you are not quite sure, if you are interested.

http://www.sterlingpaints.com/slsurprep.htm


Many years ago I used to get it from these guys. But they also carry most marine paints and have stores down your way.
http://www.boatownerswarehouse.com/

This is another great outlet but I do not know if they sell it. Ask the folks as each and everyone of their boats aged boats in their rework yard was painted by hand with the Sterling.

http://www.merrittsupply.com/Topside-Paints-C543.aspx

I haven't had time to load pictures but will this weekend. Spent the weekend applying epoxy resin to build up FG cloth. ALL epoxy will run on a vertical suface no matter how thin you try and apply it. Sanded down the epoxy runs and made my favorit filleting mix of 10 squirts of epoxy and 4 scoops of equal parts of slica and microspheres.

I troweled the mix over the entire hull and made it as smooth as glass. Started standing the hull down and it is looking great. My plans are to paint the hull white so the white fillet apperance really dosen't matter.

I shoud start painting by weekend and have the week of between Christmas and New Year to finish the hull.

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.

Hi Bob
I was able to complete the sides of the Monte Carlo 4 coats of epoxy with no runs. I used MAS low viscosity epoxy for the sides. I bought 6 gallons of the MAS for the exterior and used 20 gallons of Glen l epoxy for the inside, constrution and laminations. I used the rollers from Glen L to apply the epoxy. I applied each layer when the previous application was tacky or just showed a fingerprint and then put the next layer on.

_________________
John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Winter Haven, FL

Maybe it will be done by G6 and maybe not.

Thanks John,

Your boat looks great!! I did not get the memo on low viscosity epoxy with any of the material or DVDs that I watched or some how I missed it. If I was going for a natural wood look I would be in trouble but as it has turned out I think it will come out fine.

Thanks for the tip. If there is a next time around I would definitely use it.

I tried to roll the epoxy on initially but the roller would not turn on the previously sanded epoxy surface. I even sprayed the roller with a lubricant. I finally used a Glen-L roller with a wooden handle attached and just smoothed it over the hull as thin as I could then went back with a brush and tried to eliminated the runs until the epoxy started to set up.

The whole experience was not all that bad but was a fast learning curve.

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.

Bob.

temperature could also be a big factor. I was able to build a booth and aircondition it so I am able to control the temps a little better. 10 degrees difference was a big factor for me. I did get some bubbling (outgassing) that I could have taken care of with a foam brush but didnt learn about that until later. I found that if I brushed the epoxy the bubbling was minimal. Also because of the temps here in Florida I used the slowest hardner. Depending on your temps you may have better results with a faster hardner. I have come to think that System 3 has a similar product to MAS and you can get that from Gayle.

_________________
John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Winter Haven, FL

Maybe it will be done by G6 and maybe not.

Well I finally got with the program. Not working between Christmas and New Year and my goal was to get the boat painted and ready for the trailer that should be here the first or second week in Juanuary.

I now have three coats of Brightside paint on the boat. Applied with 3" brush with sanding between coats. I have used only about one 6th of a gallon of paint. I picked up some Interlux 333 for thinning. I will try a roller tomorrow and see how it goes after thinning the paint a little. Still have some difficulty with runs. I think that is just the way it will be and you have to minimize it as must as possible.
With the cost of paint as high as it is my plan is to continue painting as long as I have paint.

Maybe I am trying to be a perfectionist?
Ready for painting

After three coats.

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.

Looks great, I think you will really like rolling and tipping the brightsides. It should be a lot easier than brushing alone, a little paint goes a long way.

If the next coat is great stop there if not one more will be more than enough.

_________________
My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

The other part of this project is the rudder, moter placement and setup. I was able to place the rudder in position and determine its position on the mock up. I hope the rudder will work with the trailing edge at the stern or within one inch. I have also attached my notes for placement for the design of the trailer. I still do not have the strut from Glen-L but hopefully will have it next month. Will have to wait and see. My plans are to move ahead with decking and moter placement development while waiting for the sturt. More on the motor in the Electrice motor post.
Mock up of rudder at this time. The stuff block plate is exactly the right length. Might have to adjust the oak block thickness due to FG buildup but should be no problem.

Sketch of lower rudder and prop placement for trailer.


Still having fun with project.

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.

Bob it's looking great!

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Bob,
the paint looks great. Neat idea with the mock-up.

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

I finished painting the hull with 5 coats of paint. That is what one gallon would do and it looked great. I can always paint additional coats on the hull at a later time if needed.
The trailer came in. My son-in-law and friends were available in the evning so we flipped it. Was no trouble and all went well. My plans are to finish construction with the boat on the trailer. The boat is sitting a little high so modificatioins will be made to the trailer after it is launched the first time. I really was suprised at the size of the boat and how it all of a sudden appears bigger!!! The boat for the first time is starting to have character.
Boat trailer

Little Ark on trailer

Little Ark ready for decking

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.

I spent this weekend attaching the sheer and the carling. I thought is would be more difficult than it was. It is a job that takes two people and the carling was much more difficult to bend into place than the sheer. It takes 12 clamps to do the job. We placed the sheer in place and pre-drilled the holes and attached it. Afterward I took off one half at a time and epoxied and reattached in place with little trouble. Carling on the other hand was bent into place, epoxied and screwed in at one time.

In the photos you can see I finished the mahogany back to the rear seats and placed the transom sheer in and reshaped the stern section. I attached 3M tape with plastic attached to protect the hull and ran the green tape over it for extra insurance. (Great stuff)

Now I start the Fairing progess. Always a new adventure in building LIttle Ark.

I talked with the machine shop and the motor mounts should be ready in the next week or so.

Propeller came in so all I need is the strut to start the motor phase of the project.

Sheer going on


Carling attachment


Ready for Fairing

_________________
Bob
When ever you face trials of any kind consider it with great Joy.