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This design calls for double diagonal plywood.Two layers of 1/4" on the sides two layers of 3/8" on the bottom.What I came up with is almost the same as what you said.I will post pics and compare them to yours. Thanks a lot, if it wasen't for this forum I would really have a lot of questions. Thanks again.

I'm ready to start the plywood, and I have one more question. When I cut the plywood strips, do I cut them the 4' way off the sheet or the 8' way or don't it matter?

Measure the width in about three different areas along the sides. A lot depends on the width of the sides, if thats the place you are starting at. If you rip the 4 foot way, its quite possible that you will end up with a lot ofsmall cut offs and waste. As far as grain orientation too and bending, length ways works better. But this only applies int hin the foward and most flare areas. What width are you considering? In the mid and aft section it looks like you can use nice sized panels in your laminates.

If I cut it the 4' way I would have a lot of scrap, that is why I asked. As for width up front 2' seems like it would work well. Is that to small or don't it matter? In the mid and aft sections I will use the widest pieces I can. With all these Questions I'm going to soon owe you a consulting fee.

Up foward you will have a lot going on in regards of compound bending. A slight bias angle to longitual will assist wider panels such as two foot to bend, if you are talking about width fore and aft versus vertical as in the width from the chine to the sheer.

If you go with two foot wide measuring fore and aft, the problem with that is that not only in the panel bending vertically, it also needs to twist foward on the curve. So check and make sure that that wide will actually work. Before you cut the good stuff get some pattern making stuff or luan type plywood for the big box stores and experiement so that you will not waste the good stuff, even though you can cut some of the wider stuff down too. As far as fees? It so happens you are in luck. The price of admission is free and the popcorn can be suspect in these types of venures. So tread slowly and you will not step in any gummy chewing gum either.

So that was a typo, I ment 2" wide.

The least amount of loose ends you can have is better.
Make a Scale drawing of the Sheet, then see which way to make your cuts.

Awe man! I can't WAIT to see more weller!!!

I bet you can get by with 3" foward, at least give it a try for the first layer. The second layer is more forgiving and can probably increase to around 6" except for the hard turn of the sides in and around the main builkhead area. Right now I have glued up a second layer using the 6" at the turn myself. Of course I am using solid veneers which is a bit more forgiving than plywood at the sheer turns. the advantage that you have too is the numerous battens that you can fasten too in the distance until the glue dries. Experiement in the dry fitting.

Weller, I'm not sure if this will help, but there is an article on this in our blog:
http://boatbuilders.glen-l.com/982/cold-molded-planking-review/

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Thanks for the article. I cut some strips at 3" and they seem to work well. I will try 6" strips on the second layer. Thanks everyone for all the help.

This shows the three inche laminates that I use in the foward area with the six inch overlays for the second laminate.




This is the two layers that I will now cap and lock in with another laminate of the inwale batten before I now glue up my last laminate which will be 3/8" thick. The lasy enwale laminate will also lock in the last laminate and finish off with the side angle along the edges.



This shot shows a rough sand awaiting for the additional glue up of the batten back to the double laminate. When done I will flatten the side plank so that I can install the last layer for the rails all the way down to the transom along the sheer. This may be a bit unorthodox but will give me a solid surface in which to install my hardwood rails. I like something tough and solid in which to bang on in the wrong wind or if I screw up and ram a piling.

Awwww yeah, I see yours is come'n right a long Oyster. I been wait'n ta see some of welllers progress!!!

Her are some pics of the first layer of plywood. Most of it is not glued down. I had to fit every piece one at a time on the front section. In one of the pics you can see where the first layer hits the sheer, the second layer will come to the edge. Thanks for the help Oyster. Now that I see how you did it I will probably do it that way on the next boat. I understood the way you explained it, but I already added a nother layer on my sheer in the front section to make it work. I have been working on a nursery for my soon to be born son, so I have not had a chance to work on the boat lately. In o anther 3 weeks I can get back at it. Thanks again for all the help, I'm sure I will call on you a few more times until this is done.

She's coming along really nice Weller. I'm glad you added that extra 6" on the bow shear line. I was actually thinking of doing the same thing if I ever get a chance to do mine. I'm not planning on the drop down you did midship but a sweap all the way to the stern. This confirms my thoughts will werk. There's gunna be a lot a fairing going on there on that monster of a hull before the next layer! WOW!

What type of plywood did you get, how much have you used so far down that one side?