Glen-L.com

Now thats really nice! Great job!

Thanks Oyster,

This is a question to all the experienced builders out there;

How critical is it to install the engine first before the decking?
Can the engine be lowered and installed through the hatch opening, or is that a big head ache?

We have all the material and labor to do the deck, but short on funds for the major hardware pieces. I would love to keep the project moving forward unless it's a big mistake to do so.

Thanks for your advice, and Happy New Year!

Grampa Steve

Disclaimer: I have not built an inboard,but have worked on several production already built ones.

It'd be much easier to do the initial install before the deck beams& decks are in place.

You can do it later, but crawling around in contorted positions to initially install is not what I'd call fun.....doable, but not easy.

Tough enough to remove and repair things later w/o having to get drills in there etc

The hatches and deck "holes" need to be designed so that the engine can be removed later anyway, so they should be big enough

I like trisailor's way he built the center section of decking, then removed it for engine install to be completed, then install the deck section later.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13820&start=45

i don't know if this approach is feasible for your design though.

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Doing the engine, mechanical and electrical is a LOT easier without the deck in the way!

Bill

_________________
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

The single biggest reasons that I do power plants and associated hardware before i do much of the decking is to minimize dings and even residue associated with some of the natural grunge thats generated from even the body on wooden bits and pieces. This makes finishing and even refinishing wooden and cosmetic stuff a bigger job. Its much easier to deal with flaws and resulting residue while in the rough without having to redo your already tiresome work. This for sure does not discount that is is much easier since you are not having to be so carefull.. I even do my outboard rigging and align controls and gauges with pattern plywood to get it right. Then I do my finish work even the end grains of plywood in gauge panels if applicable before the final installation. This is my story and I am sticking to it.

Thanks guys for the advice. I knew it would be easier to install the engine first, and now know it's not a critical mistake to install it last. As we've already broken most of the standard wooden boat building rules, looks like this is another excellent occasion to maintain that tradition. To keep the project flowing we're going full steam ahead. Just like we completely finished the bright sides first (without varnish), the deck and seats are next.
Ever seen a sparkling dark rich mahogany boat with contrasting blond hard maple covering boards? Muahhaaahhhaaa!

Can't wait to see it, Grandpa, that's exactly the thought I had in mind for my Key Largo/Riviera (whichever and whenever it gets started). All 'hog, with flamed maple covering boards, and 'hog caulk lines was what I was thinking. I'll be keepin my eye on this one.

_________________
Ken Hundley
http://www.nocturnalguitars.com

So, my big brother was playing guitar and I figured I'd try it too.
- Stevie Ray Vaughan

Wow, thanks Ken. Thar's the spirit! Those are encouraging words coming from an "out of the box" beautiful wooden musical instrument craftsman (saw your neat website).

Not sure what "flamed" maple, or 'hog caulk lines is, but sounds cool, and would love to get more from your innovative idea bucket. Right now our plan for the deck is to use straight grain 2.5" mahogany deck boards with ebony stained edges, glued snugly together with no caulk grooves. That way we'll get a subtle yet traditional but clean pin striping effect and without what we think is unnecessary higher labor caulking issues. Should look kewl within the blond maple covering boards outlining that classic American wooden boat shape above the beautiful "ribbon formed" bright sides. At least that's what my dreams say.

I guess I am not as far along in vocab yet, and misunderstood coverboards....flamed maple is maple with waves in it, somewhat translucent or shimmering, as in the electric body below (as opposed to the grain lines)



'hog is Mahogany....

I was thinking of doing a hull with all mahogany, and maple deck boards. Rather than caulking, I thought I would do 1/4" caulk lines of inlaid mahogany. I take it the covering boards go along the outside edges and meet at the prow? (Sorry, still learning). Thats what I had in mind, and how I took your post. Even though I misunderstood, I think it will still look magnificent.

And thanks for the compliments. They are fun, they are difficult, but boats they are not. My hat's off to everyone that has started and/or finished one.

_________________
Ken Hundley
http://www.nocturnalguitars.com

So, my big brother was playing guitar and I figured I'd try it too.
- Stevie Ray Vaughan

Beautiful example of your amazing work Ken. Love that "flaming" maple. Is it hard to find in large quantities? You'll make an amazing boat for sure.

We too considered the inlaid "caulking" look (blond maple stripes between the "'hog" deck boards), until I got to interview a wooden boat restorer at the Tahoe Concourse De Elegance wooden boat show earlier this year. The deck on his beautiful classic was recently done that way and though it was already showing some split seams, I liked it. He told me how hard it was for some reason to do that, so we are choosing to go the way described earlier.

As this is our first time ever trying to build any kind of boat, we didn't think we could reasonably expect to get an "up close touchy feely" type of intricate finish as is required for a musical instrument. Instead we're going for the 100 ft "over all" impression, and if it's better than that we'll be elated. Already the in person up close comments (though non expert) toward our exterior hull have been "mantle piece" "floating Steinway", so I think we're on track to being ahead of our expectations. If we don't blow it on our simple and hopefully elegant "shaved" deck, we may even be able to dock next to any of those restored and award winning classic American mahogany runabouts and not feel too embarrassed.

Happy New Year! Let's all pray that 2012 will be better than 2011

Grampa Steve

I learned the hard way about combining hard and super hard woods, such as maple and mahogany. The mahogany shrinks as it ages at a far different rate than maple will. I am thinking that, If I move forward with my idea, I would stabilize with cloth just like the rest of the hull...this would prevent the shrinkage. Also, the mahogany would only be 1/4"x1/8" strips between larger (I am guessing around 2.5") deck boards....they will not shrink as much. I think most others I have seen this way were mahogany deck boards with maple inlay. The maple will not shrink much over the years, but the mahogany will...especially as the larger piece comparitively. Again, I think the cloth will greatly stabilize this effect. We'll see how it works out....gotta get started first.

Flamed or quilted maple is not all that hard to find, especially in the small quantities you would be using for this process. Ask your wood supplier if they have any. I love the stuff, but it is not as stable nor easy to bend as straight-grained wood....there is a lot of natural stress in the tree where this effect occurs. It's also hard as a rock...doesn't take well to blades. Planing can be difficult and cause tear-out, so sanding is the thing to do, by hand, or with a thickness sander.

_________________
Ken Hundley
http://www.nocturnalguitars.com

So, my big brother was playing guitar and I figured I'd try it too.
- Stevie Ray Vaughan

Hi guys!
We took a break for 9 months but back at it again. We relocated "Old's Cool"s modified but slightly finished Bel Isle hull to my garage where we can keep it out of the weather, or roll it out to work on in good weather.

Here's the beginning of the deck work on thew bow;


http://s1053.photobucket.com/albums/s47 ... tion=view&
current=280149_10152046483870463_1269494466_o.jpg

http://s1053.photobucket.com/albums/s47 ... 3873_o.jpg

Ok, so I'm finally learning how to post pictures!

Here's "Old's Cool" getting the front cockpits installed. This part of the build is funner than I thought it would be.

Grandpa Steve,
Looking good....please post lots more pictures.....now you have it figured out its easy....
Jamie

Ok Aussie,

For some reason I can't do what I did last time to get the images to open here. I think you can click on the links to open or cut and past in your browser window to see the latest progress in the front cockpit seating design. We're trying to keep the original 70 year old classic bench design, but with a little better usability between the two benches with a step through feature that also creates a backward seated "observer" position right next to the driver.

http://s1053.photobucket.com/albums/s47 ... 4923_o.jpg

http://s1053.photobucket.com/albums/s47 ... 1091_o.jpg