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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:38 pm 
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Location: Ridge Spring, SC
Thanks Mike,
3/4" is what I had in mind for the transom. I don't have any 3/4 plywood, so I hope laminating 3 pieces of 1/4" is OK. Do I need a solid member along the top for the motor to bolt to? I plan on sealing the end grain with a solid piece.
Tonight I realized I was putting the cart before the horse, worrying sbout when to cut the well. :roll: When I should have been thinking about what size to make it. Here is a link to the specs for the motor.
[url]http:
//www.tohatsu.com/outboards/4_dimensions.html[/url]
The specs show a hardover of 10 3/4" from center in both directions, so I played around laying it out using 12" per side For a 2' wide well.


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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:42 pm 
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Location: Ridge Spring, SC
DaveLott wrote:
Grand Chillin wrote:
DaveLott wrote:
Did we have a discussion yet on how you are going to delivery your fleet to the G6 this year?

Not yet. Are you volunteering your help. :shock: :wink: :P
If not I figured multiple tow vehicles or one big trailer. :roll:



I recall that you have a big trailer
:roll:

I do have a big trailer, but I don't have the haul truck set up to cross state lines. NO DOT or IFTA. :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 5:26 am 
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Location: North Carolina
Well if you are worried about the width and the removal of too much bottom, this is the fix. Make sure the fore and aft measurement is correct with a bit of reserve for the swing which creates an additional deminsion on a diagonal. Of course I have a true planing hull. So keeping as much bottom as I could was important. If you do not have the engine in hand, build the well and then cut accordingly along the sides for the swing when you get it. I also support the sides all the way to the top, which is connected to a transom frame, if you look closely.


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Last edited by Oyster on Thu Jan 05, 2012 5:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 5:28 am 
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Location: Branson, MO
Grand Chillin wrote:
I do have a big trailer, but I don't have the haul truck set up to cross state lines. NO DOT or IFTA. :wink:



I won't tell if you won't :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 10:35 pm 
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Alright Pirate,
Here you go, I hope these will do. As I said remember this is a work in progress. :roll: :wink:
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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:16 am 
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Location: North Carolina
Sure he has a truck that will haul all of his stuff and its a Ford too, which I am sure you also approve of. Let me refresh your memory Dave. :lol: :lol: :P

Image


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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 9:24 am 
Thanks for the pics Chip....looking good!

One tip though...if it's not already too late,better remove the helpers hand from the epoxy before it goes beyond the green stage!!LOL :shock: :roll: :wink: :lol: :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 9:26 am 
Oyster wrote:
Sure he has a truck that will haul all of his stuff and its a Ford too, which I am sure you also approve of. Let me refresh your memory Dave. :lol: :lol: :P

Image




I'm going to an invitational Ford show this w/e, but I bet they won't have one like that classic!! :shock:


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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:00 pm 
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Location: Ogden, Utah-Jubilee build
:lol: no thats not a classic my old 69 ford 350 1 ton was a classic but had to part with it last year.

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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:53 pm 
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Location: North Carolina
Any well cutout shots? Did you get the thing figured out?


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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 10:14 pm 
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Mike,
I haven't cut it out yet, but I think I have it figured out. :D Thanks for the help and the truck, now I can harvest some black gold. :shock: :P I plan on finishing the layout tomorrow and hopefully if I have enough nerve worked up make the cut tomorrow night. Cross your fingers and keep them out of the way. :roll: :wink: :lol:
In the mean time we installed the blocks for the bow and stern eyes. Now once the well is done and the bottom is flattened for the skeg we will sand the hull and glass. :D
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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 10:16 pm 
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I still haven't cut the well yet and after talking to the Pirate tonight I'm glad I didn't. :wink: I hadn't taken in consideration the angle of the transom. So now I need to know how much angle and what height for the transom. The specs give a measurement of 17.1" from the mounting bracket to the bottom of the cavitation plate.

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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 5:03 am 
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Location: North Carolina
Grand Chillin wrote:
I still haven't cut the well yet and after talking to the Pirate tonight I'm glad I didn't. :wink: I hadn't taken in consideration the angle of the transom. So now I need to know how much angle and what height for the transom. The specs give a measurement of 17.1" from the mounting bracket to the bottom of the cavitation plate.



That sounds about right. But this does not really make any difference about the physical hole size. Running distance vertical is also not the same as the vertical height, you know. Since you boat is not a true planing hull, anywhere between 11 to 13 degrees should be more than enough. Consider the fore and aft deminision of the cowling of the engine, which needs to have some margin of error for the turning and even changing to a bigger one down the road, you know.


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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:07 pm 
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Location: Ridge Spring, SC
Mike,
Thanks for the advice. We split the difference and went with 12 degrees. :D Finished laying the cut out and took the plunge tonight. :shock: Man that was nerve racking. :roll: But never fear. :wink: :D
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I still don't know why we cut a hole in the bottom of a perfectly good boat. That is like shooting a horse with a broken leg. How does a gun shot wound help the horse's broken leg? :roll: :wink: :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: PUG
PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:58 am 
Anyone asks, it's a scuba door! :roll: :wink: :lol: :lol:


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