Glen-L.com

Thanks Mike,
3/4" is what I had in mind for the transom. I don't have any 3/4 plywood, so I hope laminating 3 pieces of 1/4" is OK. Do I need a solid member along the top for the motor to bolt to? I plan on sealing the end grain with a solid piece.
Tonight I realized I was putting the cart before the horse, worrying sbout when to cut the well. When I should have been thinking about what size to make it. Here is a link to the specs for the motor.
[url]http:
//www.tohatsu.com/outboards/4_dimensions.html[/url]
The specs show a hardover of 10 3/4" from center in both directions, so I played around laying it out using 12" per side For a 2' wide well.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

I do have a big trailer, but I don't have the haul truck set up to cross state lines. NO DOT or IFTA.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Well if you are worried about the width and the removal of too much bottom, this is the fix. Make sure the fore and aft measurement is correct with a bit of reserve for the swing which creates an additional deminsion on a diagonal. Of course I have a true planing hull. So keeping as much bottom as I could was important. If you do not have the engine in hand, build the well and then cut accordingly along the sides for the swing when you get it. I also support the sides all the way to the top, which is connected to a transom frame, if you look closely.

I won't tell if you won't

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Alright Pirate,
Here you go, I hope these will do. As I said remember this is a work in progress.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Sure he has a truck that will haul all of his stuff and its a Ford too, which I am sure you also approve of. Let me refresh your memory Dave.

Thanks for the pics Chip....looking good!

One tip though...if it's not already too late,better remove the helpers hand from the epoxy before it goes beyond the green stage!!LOL

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

I'm going to an invitational Ford show this w/e, but I bet they won't have one like that classic!!

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

no thats not a classic my old 69 ford 350 1 ton was a classic but had to part with it last year.

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Don't be afraid to attempt anything. You might surprise your self in the attempt.
http://www.facebook.com/Home.Made.Boat.Building
Modified Jubilee-"Wild Flower" 40' house boat
14' Mr John-Wild Flower 2
32' Supper Huck- Wild flower 3

Rod H

Any well cutout shots? Did you get the thing figured out?

Mike,
I haven't cut it out yet, but I think I have it figured out. Thanks for the help and the truck, now I can harvest some black gold. I plan on finishing the layout tomorrow and hopefully if I have enough nerve worked up make the cut tomorrow night. Cross your fingers and keep them out of the way.
In the mean time we installed the blocks for the bow and stern eyes. Now once the well is done and the bottom is flattened for the skeg we will sand the hull and glass.

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

I still haven't cut the well yet and after talking to the Pirate tonight I'm glad I didn't. I hadn't taken in consideration the angle of the transom. So now I need to know how much angle and what height for the transom. The specs give a measurement of 17.1" from the mounting bracket to the bottom of the cavitation plate.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

That sounds about right. But this does not really make any difference about the physical hole size. Running distance vertical is also not the same as the vertical height, you know. Since you boat is not a true planing hull, anywhere between 11 to 13 degrees should be more than enough. Consider the fore and aft deminision of the cowling of the engine, which needs to have some margin of error for the turning and even changing to a bigger one down the road, you know.

Mike,
Thanks for the advice. We split the difference and went with 12 degrees. Finished laying the cut out and took the plunge tonight. Man that was nerve racking. But never fear.


I still don't know why we cut a hole in the bottom of a perfectly good boat. That is like shooting a horse with a broken leg. How does a gun shot wound help the horse's broken leg?

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Anyone asks, it's a scuba door!

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream