Glen-L.com

Absolutely! Not uncommon to laminate extra thickness to the chines and shears.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

I have some gaps in areas between frames and chine log. should I try cutting little pieces of wood or is it ok to just let the thickened epoxy fill them? I'm talking about up to 1/4" or so.

If you haven't already glued the chines in place, I would try to fair the frame notches to get a better joint. Those notches are often compound cuts and should be cut and shaped in accordance to the way the chines and shears pass along the frames. While the glue will bridge some gaps I would not depend on that to compensate for a poor fitting joint. Good joinery is a result of good work habits and helps improve skills and will result in a better looking boat. You have a nice start so far. Don't settle for mediocrity.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

I was concerned that if I kept fairing then I would have to fair the side frames back that much more, didnt know witch would be better . ( fiil some gaps or fair a extra 1/4 to 3/8 material off side frames in bow area.) It sounds like fairing back side frames is the way to go ?

It would be better to see a picture of the joints in question. Generally you need to fair the frames and notches to coincide with the angle the chines. In the case of the forward frames where the angle of the chine heads towards the stem, the front edge of the frame would be faired, but the back edge would remain intact. If your frame notches are too deep to allow that and to get a good fit would necessitate removing material from the frame that would reduce the frame width, I would square up the joint and add a nicely shaped shim to provide a nice flat land for the chine. how's that for a run on sentence. When I say "square up" I mean to make the joint such that it squarely mates with it's counterpart. This could mean many compound angles. Sides if the chines generally require little or no fairing when properly fitted.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

already have a wedge cut to shape. at work right now so no pics. its mostly one frame that the problem,and hate to refair 3 or 4 frames cause of one bad one. most frames have 80% bearing with small voids (1/16 or so), the bad one is about 25%.

In that case, I would just clean up the offending notch and shim it.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Ok thanks . ill use the shim.

I am going to be working on my sheers next. It is two laminated pc's and a third in bow area. this may sound stupid but when laminating are the screws to help in the process or are they a structural part helping to hold the laminats together. my plan was to glue and clamp, then go back and install screws after glue has dried (if needed). let me clarify: first layer fasten to frames, i know i need them. second layer gets fasteners from inside out (these are the ones in ? ). Then a bunch of then in planking. just seems like a lot of screws in a small area.

Hello Tom, I'm also building the Cuddy Sport and am about a year ahead of you. Building was very very slow this past year (planned on being finished) so hopefully in the water by next summer (maybe ).

Anyhow, this is how I attached the sheer's.

Screwed the first lamination to the frames but removed the screws from the connection at frame 6 and 7 after the epoxy was set up (approx 24 hours)

Temporarily screwed the second lamination to the first (from the outside). I used thickened epoxy (West with microfibers) to bond, and removed ALL the screws from the second lamination once it had set up.

The third lamination, which is done to the (inside) of the sheer in the forward section was held in place with C-clamps.

Particularly forward of frame 6 you do alot (ALOT) of fairing, so not having any screws in the way is really a plus. Even if you are using silicon-bronze (which plane away pretty well with a power planer), it really saves the blades if there is nothing there.

After removing the screws I just glooped some thickened epoxy in the holes that were left behind. The epoxy itself is stronger than the screws and I have zero concerns about not having screws in the sheer (or chine for that matter, which was attached without any screws anywhere).

I will give you a suggestion to think about at this point. You may want to consider putting in an (extra) batten at this point to support the outer edge of the walkaround deck. The plans indicate that you can scab in some cleats after the side are on and the boat is turned over, but putting a batten for support at the framing stage seems to (me) to make a little more sense (and save alot of horsing around later on).

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about (also shows the C-clamps holding the inner sheer lamination in place).

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Graham

Yes, Plywood is "real" wood

A "professional" is someone who gets paid for their work - it doesn't necessarily mean they are good at it

thanks,your build look very familar hopeing to be fairing in a couple of days. thanks

very similar to the Glen -L design (A-Lure). The foredeck clamp is installed at time of framing. Also I found that I had to add material on the chines but on the outer side. I just seemed that the chine did not bow enough. looking good on the build.

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I have been fairing last few weeks.just about done I think. right now my keel is 3/16'' in 18' convext. is this to far out ? should it be straighter. The aft 8' is flat as could be and then it drops as it goes forard to the bow. Boy I hope I didnt scew this up !