Building a Squirt

Roberta Hegy · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:11 pm

A circular saw with a tilting frame will cut hte transom angle just fine. Merry Christmas!!

Roberta

upspirate · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:12 pm

a 5 HP will "move" the boat, but I would be you'd need at least 15 to get it up on plane....esp with it being 11'.

I rode in an 11' with 25 HP Johnson,and a 10' with 20 HP Mercury.The Merc on the 10 outran the 25 on the 11,but not by much

I'm going to use an old Mark 25 Mercury on mine.

Attachment:

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One thing about it though,if the size you choose isn't enough, that size sells really well and it's easy to re-power up a few HP....not to heavey to move around!! :wink:

BarnacleMike · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:31 pm

I do have a circular saw. Great! Thanks Roberta!

UPSPirate, that's a cool-looking motor. What year model is it?

rjlemay sherman ct · **Joined:** Tue Dec 15, 2009 5:17 pm **Posts:** 399

Hi B.M
I put a 25 hp Johnson on my Squirt, found it on craigslist for $650, and have found it to be about perfect. I am 6'1" and 220 lbs... when I go out, I always take the two dogs, each weighing about 70 lbs apiece. My tank is mounted under the bow. We get on plane instantly, and do about 25-30 mph in calm water... Good luck with you're build.
Bob Lemay

upspirate · **Posted:** Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:30 pm

1956 If I remember right

It's been reported to put out anywhere from 18-22 HP so it should run decent,

Someone from Michigan has one on his Squirt too

I wanted to keep the build,motor and hardware to look like a mid-late 1950's boat

BarnacleMike · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 9:22 am

Well I finally ordered some Poxy Grip, which should be here in a couple of days.

I want to play it safe as far as epoxy allergies / reactions, so I've been looking at respirators, etc... Does this one from Lowes look adequate?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_336138-98-62023DHA1-A_4294766299_4294937087_?productId=3316798&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_Paint%2BClothing%2BSafety_4294766299_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

As far as other PPE, would snug-fitting goggles and latex gloves work, or should I look for something more specialized?

Thanks everyone & Happy New Year to you!

Lowka53 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 04, 2012 6:24 pm

I also used the throw away painters cover-hauls as well so not to ruin my cloths while working with the stuff and the sanding dust can be just as bad for you as the uncured stuff.

BarnacleMike · **Posted:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 7:32 am

I've started constructing my building form for the Squirt & I've come to my next question:

Should frame #2 (the foreward-most frame that mates to the stem) be mounted parallel to frame #1 so that the keel would be completely flat from the transom all the way to frame #2?

The reason I ask this is that it doesn't seem clear in the plans. Since frames 1 and 2 are shaped differently, the base of the frames do not sit parallel when they are mounted upside-down on the longitudinal members of the building form. (My form is built with the longitudinal members 18" apart). The difference would result in a rise in the keel of approximately 3/4" (eyeball measurement) from frame #1 foreward to frame #2. The plans only specify that the keel is "flat" from the transom to frame #1.

If the keel needs to be flat all the way to frame #2, then I'll need to cut the notch for frame #2 at a different depth.

J Clark · **Posted:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 8:49 am

I mulled over this same question for some time as well Mike.
On the plans you will see it is mounted slightly lower on the form from frame #1 when you sight it with a straight edge. When I mounted my frames after assembly #1 and #2 members where mounted flush to the building form and I had to raise the transom about an 1/8" off the form to get it on a level plane with frame #1. Remember you want a level plane where the peak in the keel will be and the curve towards the stem starts at frame #1

BarnacleMike · **Posted:** Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:54 am

Thanks JClark. After looking at some other builders photos, particularly JWPutnam's detailed photos, I'm pretty confident that the keel should be level from the transom all the way up to the base of the stem. When I notch the longitudinal boards on my building form, I'll make sure to compensate accordingly.

Now, for the next question...

The transom is mounted at a 12 degree angle. So, the bottom part of the transom will be cut accordingly. But what about where the keel and battens fit into the transom frame? Do I need to cut away the frame notches themselves to match the 12 degree angle? Or is it best / easiest to make the 12 degree cut on the aft end of the keel and battens?

It seems that it would be pretty difficult to cut away the interior surface of the frame notches, but I suppose I could file it away if needs be...

jprice · **Posted:** Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:09 am

My jigsaw has a tilting base. I used that set to 12 degrees to cut all the notches in the transom frame. Wasn't too bad.
If you cut them straight, you'll probably have to put small 12 degree shim/filler pieces in the notches rather than angling the ends of the keel and battens.

You could also file the angle like you mentioned. If you do that, make sure you cut the depth of the notches less than specified to account for where the angle will be filed away. (probably about 1/8 inch)

J Clark · **Posted:** Mon Jan 23, 2012 3:26 pm

I fit my battens by hand and used a sharp chisel to cut the angle in the notches.

On the keel. I think you'll find that it will create an S-bend once you fasten the keel to the stem. The sheer will also create some unfairness if you raise that forward frame. In the plans it does specify that the keel should only be level between the transom and the next frame forward.

BarnacleMike · **Posted:** Mon Jan 30, 2012 12:04 pm

I mixed my first batch of Poxy Grip over the weekend & laminated my stem and breasthook parts. The resin and hardener were MUCH thicker than I expected & I wound up having to "pull" the respective parts out of their measuring cups with a paint stick in order to put them in the mixing container. The mixture was extremely thick, but I managed to coat one of the mating surfaces for each part without too much difficulty & got the pieces screwed back together.

How will I know when the epoxy has cured completely?

J Clark · **Posted:** Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:14 pm

Glad to hear you are sticking some parts together.

Epoxy will thin out once the temp rises. I shine a heat lamp behind my epoxy bottles to warm them up at least an hour before I'm going to use it. The epoxy becomes very thin and it is a good idea to use some type of filler to thicken it up after you have initially coated the mating surfaces.

For epoxy, depending on the temp it could take from 24 to 72 hours for the initial cure. It should be hard not rubbery. Even then it isn't fully cured for some time after that but usually is strong enough to pull clamps, unless it is under a lot of stress. Not a big issue until you start mounting your sheer laminates and chine.

upspirate · **Posted:** Mon Jan 30, 2012 1:29 pm

He's using poxy-grip, not poxy shield....it's already thick

In the cold weather, I keep mine in the warm house, then it stays at the proper temp for mixing (not as stiff....no problem with straight resin at cooler temps though)

Glen-L.com

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