Glen-L.com

Well it has been a long time in coming but yesterday with the help of my son we fiberglassed the bottom. did a first coat then waited till it was tacky and the put fiberglass on one sid then did the other side. Was able to get 1 more coat of yeaterday night . Then this morning I put another coat on. Am going to put the 3rd coat on later to day.
did not look to good after wetting out ,but every coat after made it look better.
I used 4oz cloth,so my plan is to put on 2 or 3 more coats of epoxy for a total of 4to5
Now to the questions. I see that there was added a piece of wood in the center of your boat bottom. A wood skeg i am asumming. Is there some where that you got the size and shape of it. And how did you determine where to put it.
Thanks Jeff

Looks Great!!!!

My skeg is 5 ft long. It tapers from 1" in the front to about 3" about 3.5-4 ft back then back to 1" in the rear. It was made from 5/4 white oak and is faired down like a dull blade. The mounted edge is beveled to fit the angle of the keel.It is mounted 3 ft forward of the transom in a bed of thickened epoxy and 4 # 10 screws. Mercury suggested 4 ft and Glen L specifies 2 ft so I compromised. It seems to turn very well.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Thanks. Reberta.
After you finished sanded your epoxy bottom. And before you painted it. Did you prime the bottom. And what did you use and whos bottom paint did you use.
Thanks Jeff

I used System Three Yacht primer and their WR-LPU paint. They have a good selection of colors and clear gloss and satin. These are water reduced paints and are water cleanup with no solvent smell. They are not intended for prolonged use below the waterline, but are fine for trailered boats that don't spend extended time on the water like more than a week. My bottom appears to be holding up well.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

I will need paint that will allow me to leave my oboat in the water for a prolonged time.
Thanks. Jeff

Nice work!

Here is a picture of my skeg. https://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Ch ... 9976366082 Its kinda on the short side, having ridden in Zips with longer skegs I like the way the longer ones turn a little better. Mine still skids noticably more than those with a skeg thats 1.5ft longer. Mine is set 18" forward of the transom, I think that is shorter than recommended but it has caused no problems of cavitation at all. To install, its just bedded in thickened epoxy. Look in your little Zip instruction packet that came with your plans, it should have some details about skegs.

As for paint, I've been really, really happy with Interlux products the couple times I have used them. They are easy to use and give really amazing results. They should have what you are looking for. They have products for nearly every application, which can be daunting to choose one so you might want to just contact them and ask which they recommend for your usage.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/default.aspx

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My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

There are probably as many shapes and sizes of skegs as there are boats. Mine is very long but not very tall and tapers from full profile to nothing fore and aft. I cannot speak as to how it performs, that will have to wait many months.

For bottom paint I used VC performance epoxy. It is rated for up to 60 days immersion as I expect to be floating my boat for stretches at a time. I am thirilled at how it came out, but must admit applying it was the one thing I hired a pro to spray on. Lots of bottom 'paint' options, choosing one was one of my worst cases of 'analysis parlaysis'.

PS: I could get away with tapering my skeg to such a fine point because it is, in fact, part of the keel.

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This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

I am pleased with the way it has turned out so far. Should I fair the bottom then build a skew and install and fiberglass over it and then finish with a coat or two of epoxy. And then move to bottom paint. Did any of you put on primer before your bottom paint.
Will ck out the book for tips on skegs
Jeff

The paint you pick should have a suggested primer, use the one it suggests as it will be designed for your paint system/brand you choose. I installed the skeg after the fiberglassing was done but before priming. I did not fiberglass it just epoxy coated and then painted with the rest of the bottom.

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My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

I didn't taper mine at the stern...probably should go back and do that though...anyway, it goes from about 1/2" to almost 3". I can still slide in turns though...not quite trimmed out right yet.

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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

Here is a photo of my skeg on my Malahini. I have not measured it in a long time, but I'm pretty sure the tapered tip is about 22.5" from the transom. I think it is 2.75" deep and about 9ft long. I have a 90HP engine. My cavitation plate is at the bottom of the transom. I've only had it out twice since finishing it. The second time, I made some quick turns at 25-30MPH and there were no problems. I also did not notice any cavitation problems. My bottom is painted with automotive paint. Mine will stay on a lift during the season and on a trailer over the off season. So no long term water exposure. Like Chris said, check out Interlux. They make very good products and will definitely have something for extended water exposure.

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2011 MALAHINI - KICKED IN THE HEAD

I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/

Well last night I put on the last coat of epoxy, until after fairing. Not sure how much film is on it but there are 3 top coats after the wet out coat. It looks very shiney. Does anyone have a guess as to how much film goes on with one of those yellow foam rollers, asuming you don't put it on so heavy as to let it run.
Is 4 days a good amount of time for curing, ased west system.
I tried to put it on and get smooth as I don't like to sand.
Next step will to build the skeg and get ready to install.
I am going to try to get the bottom done as soon as possible.
Want to get her turned over so i can see if it looks loke a boat.
Thanks for the responces on the skegs and bottom paint.
Jeff

I didn't taper my skeg that much at either end. It's about 3" high and 4' long. The boat turns sharp enough to cause the motor to cavitate. I don't feel any skidding at all. 2/26 correction: my skeg starts 24" from transom, is 84" long, 2" high at rear tapering to 1" forward. (amazing how quickly the actual details of the build fade from memory!)

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My Webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/Buckeyesmith1/Gem#

The best part about a manual screwdriver is not needing to remember if you left it in reverse.

Completion is but one step in the process and not one bit more important than the others.