Glen-L.com

I would recommend full size pre-drilling the outer panel and a very small pilot for the butt block. I needed to slightly countersink the meranti on my Super Spartan to get the screw heads to sit low. The meranti is very hard and does not squash like the DF or Okoume. You will want to try to set the ones under the glass to make sure they don't project through, or sand them down. I used # 8 machine screws and blind nuts on the butt blocks on the Zip bottom. There is a little curve near frame 4 and 1/4" ply does not have a lot of holding power. The blind nuts with machine screws prevented a problem of having the wood screws pull out, plus I was able to really pull the ply down tight on to the block making a better joint. Predrill the locating holes for the screws during fitup and then enlarge the holes for the screws and blind nuts. The blind nuts can be run in with a screw to set them and then a small dab of glue to keep them from falling out. The screws were trimmed flush once the epoxy cured.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

A note on curing the dreaded itch from fiberglass. Cold showers. Keeps that crap from getting deeper into your pores. I know my advise comes a little late.

Thanks for the solid advise guys. I feel better about the way I was leaning on this stuff now.

One of the things that strikes me most about this journey, is just how different the pictures and illustrations in the books look as compared to my actual work. For example, the beveled edge over the unbeveled edge at the keel... yea, whatever. All I did was screw up what WAS a perfectly straight factory edge on the panel.

I see some fill work in my near future.

Thanks again. Back to work.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

One of the many things I learned this week is that I could have done a better job with fairing. Consequently, there are a few gaps to fill. Which filler is best for that function--silica?

I hit a dead end when I ran out of 1 1/2" screws. Hopefully my new batch will arrive today. Then I can resume work on the forward section of the bottom (need the length for the washer blocks).

I'll get a few more hours in before the end of the weekend, but more importantly, I am re-motivated. What is it..., six months until G6? I'll be ready.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

I think we all find spots we could have faired differently Andy, it aint no thang. Someone here once said craftsmanship is all about how well you cover your mistakes. I think there is a lot of truth to that.

Youre making great progress with your boat building vacation time.

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My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

I'm considering the following steering solution for my Zip.

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/pc/TEL-S ... l#readmore

Is this going to work?
How many feet would be ideal?

Also, are two bunks enough for the trailer? What if I used 2x6 stock, or even 2x8?

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

I may have answered my own question on the bunks anyway. I reviewed all the archive photos (again). Most Zips (including many of the most admired builds like Tom Drake's) are sitting on two 2x4 bunks.

I was also looking at windshield options. I was surprised by how many opted for no windshield at all. I'd say it's roughly half.

I may call an audible on the deck layout that I have long been attached to. I came up with one that visually elongates the boat's lines.

I need to knock it off and just build the dang thing! I just have too much time on my hands here at work.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

The standard Teleflex kit comes with either a straight bezel or a 20 deg kit. I thought the 20 deg was too much, so I bent the mounting bracket a few degrees and purchased the straight bezel. Then I sanded the bezel to match the new angle. Worked great and saved some money over the articulating helm. Unless, of course, you want the helm to articulate. Shop around and you can find the helms discounted.

Most of the boat trailers are two bunk setups and should be fine. I used a Teleflex rotary style helm and a 13 ft cable on my Zip with right side steering and tilt tube connection to the motor. Make sure to leave enough room for the cable to bend from the helm rearward and likewise leave room for the bend at the transom. The mounting instructions will give you minimum radius for the bends. Not sure if your motor is 15 or 20 inch. You may want to consider exiting the hull on the deck to get a straight shot to the tilt tube if you have a higher transom for a 20 inch motor. A small clamshell vent makes a nice cowl for the exit for the cable on the deck. The tilt tube mounts are the best to give you free movement to tilt and trim the motor. If you have the 15" motor, then you can exit the side of the motorwell in line with the tilt tube.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Thanks Roberta. I have a 20" motor.

The steering cable on my donor setup was ancored to the motorwell. It would seem that such in neccessary, but I'm a little confused.

I get the clam shell vent for a higher connection--that sounds logical, but I dont know what a tilt tube is.

I will probably buy the articulating 'column' as I am a tall fella, but I'm still confused about how it all works at the back of the boat.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

The tilt tube is that pivot point on the motor mount to the transom that allows the motor to be tilted up. There is a large nut on each side and the tube is hollow and you can see right through it from side to side. Your motor is so equipped, but you may not have the correct link. These are easily available from boat part suppliers or Ebay. The Teleflex cable has a nut on it that will attach to the threaded end of the tube. Here is a link to a drawing of the various ways to hook up steering to your motor. The tilt tube method is the best way to go.

http://www.teleflex.ru/upload/files/cat ... 20Kits.pdf

Here is a link to the Teleflex Marine tilt steering systems with link of how it works and installation guides.

http://www.teleflexmarine.com/products/ ... -steering/

http://www.teleflexmarine.com/wp-conten ... 606_r3.pdf

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

That is exactly the info I needed Roberta! Thanks. I love these forums!

My donor had a splashwell mount. I'll try to do this one with the tilt tube.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

More progress tonight... starboard, forward bottom ply fitted, jointed, and installed. Time consuming but pretty easy.

I mixed my leftover glue with some sawdust and started filling screw holes and gaps.

Need to order another gallon of Poxy Grip--stuff goes fast!

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Good stuff! Keep up the good work!

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Built the 17' Glen-L "Sea Knight"

Ok..., I now have a complete hull--I guess its a boat now, as it will float.

I'll replace the washer blocks with regular screws tomorrow or Monday, then its time to get sanding.

I used silica with Poxy Grip to make a good putty and covered all my screws and gaps (except the area I just finished). I'll be taking my belt-sander to the hull to level everything out. After a little hand-sanding, I'll be fiberglassing.

Progress is coming faster these days.

I'll post some pics when I get the sanding done. It's pretty ugly right now. lol.

It might not be finished at G6, but it'll be there, God willing.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Good Job Andy!

_________________
My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."