Glen-L.com

Looks great. Now that you have mastered fiberglassing you will have to resist the temptation to mend your daughter's arm with fiberglass and a few coats of epoxy.

_________________
My Webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/Buckeyesmith1/Gem#

The best part about a manual screwdriver is not needing to remember if you left it in reverse.

Completion is but one step in the process and not one bit more important than the others.

Yah, but at least a fiberglass/epoxy cast would be waterproof!

I picked up a Johnson long shaft 50hp today. It's a 1982 in great condition; not quite the era of the Zip, but I think it will still look good. Plus, at 180+/- pounds, it should work great...

You'll be racing Roberta!!!

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Look's like a nice motor. With the extra speed I get with the 50 hp I do get some porpoising above 30 mph in choppy water. I don't have remote trim, so I may be adding some Lenco trim tabs. Get this thing done so we can race at G6.

Roberta

_________________
Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

That motor looks like a good find. Nice job on the fiberglassing too.

_________________
My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Thanks! So I haven't posted for a while...but not much progress to show or report on (I was golfing last wed-sunday in NC ). Basically put on several coats of epoxy and have been sanding it out trying to get a perfect finish. Just wanted to ask if I have the next few steps correct:

1. Do a final sand of the entire hull to prep for primer
2. Tape my waterline
3. Primer the bottom to the taped waterline
4. Paint over the primer (two coats)
5. Add boot stripe if desired
6. Clear coat everything (over the paint, stripe, and epoxied sides) - multiple coats I hear

For the clear coat, I was thinking of Epifanes Clear Varnish (High Gloss). I already have Interlux brightside paint (poly) for the bottom.

Does that sound right?

Sounds like a good plan. Make sure you allow enough time for all the coatings to cure before the next type of coating is applied. Check compatibility of Epifanes over the Interlux.

Roberta

_________________
Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

You dont clear coat over the Interlux Brightsides. It will be bright, shiny and durable itself. You only need to clear coat the wood you will not be painting such the sides and transom if you intend to not paint them and have a natural wood finish. If doing a natural finish on the sides and/or transom I would wait to do that until you have finished the deck and do the deck and the sides at the same time. Youll inevitably sand some of the finish off the sides when fairing the outside edge of the decking and likely have to redo it anyway so I just waited till near the end.

_________________
My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

I am definitly not a motor expert but I have a question; are you sure that is a long shaft? I am used to seeing a 5" extension joint above the lower unit and I don't see one on yours.

Vupilot is correct, you don't want to clear finish over any of your painted surfaces. Epifanes has some amber color and it would affect the colors of your paint. I have used both Brightsides and Epifanes for years and love both of them. I think you will be happy with the results.

_________________
My Webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/Buckeyesmith1/Gem#

The best part about a manual screwdriver is not needing to remember if you left it in reverse.

Completion is but one step in the process and not one bit more important than the others.

Yah, it's a long shaft...measures 20" from perch to cavitation plate; and about 28" from perch to center of prop. Don't feel bad though, I had the same reaction when I first saw it...it does look like a short shaft at first blush....

Regarding the paint/finish....I was schooled by the tech folks at interlux who wrote a response to my inquiry. Guess I am going to make some changes to my planned system....

Unfortunately I am afraid to say, but the system which you are proposing will likely pose a few challenges and possibly not work out all that well:
- Pre-Kote primer is not suitable for use on epoxy as it will not hold to the surface all that well nor will it completely seal off the epoxy and prevent any of the amine blush from working its way up.
- Brightside is technically a topside finish, therefore we cannot guarantee that it will hold up as expected when applied to the bottom of a boat. See any direct contact with water for periods of time will cause bubbling/blistering which in turn would result in detachment. Therefore if you do use Brightside, I would be absolutely certainly that the boat were to never sit in the water for more than 3 days at a time and when out of the water it will sit on a hard and sound surface which does not have the ability to retain moisture (ex: rollers on a trailer rather than carpeted bunks).
- There are no varnishes available which are suitable to be applied overtop of Brightside or any topside finish as the attempt to do so will only result in splitting/cracking/detachment of the varnish from the Brightside.

Based off of the information which you have provided so far, I would recommend that you revise your system a bit to ensure that you achieve the appearance and durability that you are ideally looking for:
- Above the waterline – Perfection Plus which is a clear two component polyurethane varnish with great UV protection (Applied directly to the clear epoxy and above the waterline only)
- Below the waterline – Epoxy Primekote which is a two component epoxy based primers which will completely encapsulate the epoxy and Brightside which is a one component polyurethane topside paint which offers a high level of gloss (Just bear in mind that the boat is to never sit in the water for more than 3 days at a time and when out of the water it will sit on a hard and sound surface which does not have the ability to retain moisture (ex: rollers on a trailer rather than carpeted bunks)
- Optional below the waterline – VC Performance Epoxy which is a biocide free two component epoxy non antifouling bottom paint which offers great abrasion resistance and has no issues with being immersed and is intended for boats which are trailered (Provides a semi gloss finish and is available in White only)

Interesting. When I built my kayak that kit company suggested the Pre-kote knowing full well it will go over epoxy and they are a Interlux distributor. In fact, here is a quote right from their own tips for builders section of their website which specifically mentions pre-kote going over epoxy .

"A ‘hi-build' primer, such as Interlux's Pre-Kote Primer will even conceal some of the epoxy runs and other warts that you didn't catch before running out of sandpaper." Sure sounds like they fully expect you to apply pre-kote over epoxy to me.

I had not heard that prekote will not bond well with epoxy. Mine and presumably hundreds of others from that company are holding up great and I find it interesting that their own distributor/user appears to be unaware of such warnings as well. I have heard of the 3 days submerged limit and I think you and most builders were aware of this. I had not heard of the carpet bunks causing any moisture problems.

Interesting to hear it right from the horses mouth. I would change primers to their suggestion.

_________________
My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

I'm all for the VC Performance epoxy, used it on my boat bottom.

_________________
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

...just as I was about to order paint too...

Now I'm confused. I want white or off white from sheer to sheer--entire hull--one color. I was planning on Brightsides and whatever they recommend for primer. Will this work? Do I need roller bunks now?

_________________
Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Vupilot - yah, I was surprised with the response...I was just checking with interlux regarding my approach as final check before I began that process over the next couple of weeks. I am going to switch primers.

Andy - I think their recommended primer of Primekote with brightside poly is acceptable. As long as your boat is trailered (and not docked for extended periods of time) the brightside should be good to go. I had not heard of bunks vs rollers being an issue with brightside until the interlux email (though I understand their point). However, they would be the experts. If I were you, I would go to interlux's website (http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/conta ... fault.aspx) and send an email with your painting approach to the address for tech support. I sent mine at 9:30 pm one evening and had a response the following morning.

I used System Three WR-LPU on the bottom of my Zip. It also is not recommended for continuous immersion. I have 4 carpeted bunks and I will not change that. Personally, I think the rollers on a wood bottom would do more damage to the paint than the bunks. Thr WR-LPU is very tuff and flexible. I'm not concerned. I will not be mooring my boat for extended periods of more than 3-4 days. I did have it in the water for over 3 days last fall and so far so good. I have launched and retrieved the boat at least 8 times last fall and have yet to see any blemish to the finish.

I just finished using the WR-LPU Clear Gloss on the Super Spartan bottom last night. I laid down 5 thin coats over the last two days using just the 4" hot dog foam rollers and no tipping other than to remove a little foam on sharp corners. The finish rivals spray. I will post pics on my Super Spartan thread.

Roberta

_________________
Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"