Glen-L.com

Ok, so I got some great advice (as usual) on another thread in regard to glassing. Thanks to all for that.

I am now looking just beyond the glassing to paint. For a while now, I've been set on using Brightside for pretty much everything white. Then I was going to find a good clear for the entire top, bright and paint both.

However, I've been nagged by the Brightside caveat of 'above the true waterline'. So, I went looking for alternatives--enter Supermarine SM1000, which is rated for top and bottom. Now, I know SM has a tricky rep around here, but I also know that Dave Lott has used it to dazzling effect. I also know that it comes in clear and colors and is therefore compatible as a clear coat over the color for an even deeper gloss.

I've read all the posts I could find both pro and con. I understand that a high quality bristle brush may produce better tipping results for this paint. I am futher aware that the potential exists that I might need to wet sand and/or buff. I have painted a few motorcycles and have everything I need to perform this procedure to excellent results and I'm confident in doing so. Heck, if my garage was better set up for it, I'd spray the entire boat via HVLP (seems a shame that I have that stuff and can't use it).

Add to ALL THAT, that my wife would like a creamy color--not quite white for that antiqued look. Enter: Hatteras White.

All things considered..., I may have just talked myself into SM1000. Are there concerns that I have not addressed?

One more question: The SM website mentions a certain primer for a wood substrate, but the Zip will actually have an epoxy substrate for which, they have no listed recommendation. Can I do this sans the primer? After all, the SM1000 clear obviously needs no primer to stick.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Some colors like yellow and other lighter colors do not cover well and when applied over a surface that is mottled with color variations do better with a primer that will even out the surface so the topcoat does not allow the substrate to show through. A good filler primer will prepare the surface for a really good finish, especially if you are looking for high gloss. High gloss requires a really perfect substrate or every little blemish will be amplified.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Andy do yourself a favor and save the headaches and avoid the SM products. Dave had to recoat his bottom because after 4 months it was already rubbing off in big areas on his bottom which we saw during the boats debute at G4 the small amount of time it was on the trailer. Mine has rubbed off where the bunks are after about 18 launches in 2.5 years. When I ordered some supplies for touch up last fall they lost my entire order and cost me a week an a half of downtime and wouldnt even give me free shipping or any discount for their error in losing the order paperwork.

I used the brightside on my kayak below the waterline and couldnt be happier. Its smooth and glossy, was very simple to apply and its quite durable. I know many people that have used it below the waterline and left the boat in for a weekend that I wouldnt hesitate to use it on my Zip bottom. The Gatherings are the longest my boat sits in the water at a time and I think you said the same. If youre looking for alternatives you might look into the Pettit brand of paints.

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My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Never used SM but seriously considered it. Could well be a briliant product but seems to be 'finnicky' at best, very difficult to use exactly for best results at worst. For a first time boat buider I decided against it for those reasons.

I used Interlux VC 'Performance Epoxy' rated for use below waterline, and some excellent reviews. It is not the easiest to work with, being a true 2 part epoxy, but recommended for boats that are trailer a lot - ie most boats built by folks here. I experimented with it myself but wound up finding a great professional painter to spray the entire bottom up to the water lines for $300.00, some if the best money I've spent.

The 'base' product is a 'soft' white as in the photo of my boat, but as I understand can be tinted. Can't speak to water use as I have not gotten to that point yet.

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This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

Hmmm...,

Dang it. Everything I know about building a boat, I learned here, by learning to take good advice. I thank you all.

...more research...

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Ok,

I've been on Interlux's site all night reading tech sheets and everything else I could find. Here's the deal..., My deck will have both painted areas and bright finished areas. What attracted me most about the SM1000 was the fact that is is available in color and clear. This means that maintaining the deck finish could be as easy as a new clear coat every three or four years (guessing there) over the existing clear and color. That is a VERY tempting consideration because it's easy. However, I have ZERO desire to repaint the bottom EVER! My boat doesn't have lifting eyes. A bottom side re-do, will be a PITA when it comes around, so the less it comes around, the better. So I'm inclined to take Chris' advise.

I'd love to use the Brightsides, but only hesitate because of a lack of clear coat version. Interlux has a variety of one part and two part (Perfection Plus) varnishes, but I'm not excited about the prospect of varnish next to paint, because varnish needs redone far more frequently. Interlux prints in BOLD LETTERS that using Perfection Plus over clear epoxy must be done perfectly or it will have adhesion problems--that's not inspiring. Then, there's the whole thing about many, many coats with sanding between every coat. Plus, the two part is only 4 times longer lasting than the single part varnishes. I would expect more from a catalyzed polyurethane since the same system will last for decades on a car that sits in the weather.

I watched Allan Fullerton's videos of automotive clearing his bright work and might take another look at that, but I still run into the problem of having my bright work next to paint. I can't spray any polyurethane over a single part paint.

Chris, did you use the SM160 hardener on your boat bottom when you used SM1000? It is supposed to enhance wear resistance of SM1000. I'm just reaching here.

This whole process is just very frustrating due to my design choices, and I refuse to create a boat that doesn't achieve the look I want. D_mn my stubborn nature.

Sorry for the rant.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Andy if your going to use a two part polyurathane paint theres no reason why you cant use a poly clear coat over it just lay out your paint design paint it be careful an sand it with 400 grit and clear over it and all the bright work and your done

Andy I sent you a pm

You can always step up to Supermarine's Ironside Urethane Two-Part Urethane (SM-266). This can be topcoated with Ironside Urethane Clear (SM-266). Both products may be brushed, rolled or sprayed.

Another option if you're spraying is to skip the marine products entirely. We've had excellent results with DuPont Imron and PPG urethane primers, sealers and topcoats. We've torture-tested these products to 80 MPH + ...

Due to tighter VOC regulations, these paints are no longer available in our area, so we switched to Sherwin-Williams. Their primer-sealer and Genesis® GC/G8 Single-stage acrylic polyurethane seem to be holding up well.

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Paul Kane
Kane Custom Boats Ltd.
Chelsea, Quebec

Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.kanecustomboats.com

Glen-L Boat Video Directory : http://www.kanecustomboats.com/pages/vi ... ctory.html

My Malahini has automotive paint on the bottom. It is also clear coated with 2-gallons of automotive clear coat and then sanded to 3000 grit and buffed. I think the whole process took 2-weeks from DA sanding to buffing. It looks good, but I've had a couple of people think it was fiberglass painted to look like wood. If I go through with the next boat, I think I'm going to varnish it.

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2011 MALAHINI - KICKED IN THE HEAD

I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/

What kind of dope would think your boat was painted to look like wood???? Takes all kinds, I guess. Your boat is Beautiful!!!

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Another long night of paint studying until the ER exploded with three code red gun shot victims--all shot by the Wichita police during a home invasion. Got what they deserved if you ask me. Look it up online, should be a good story.

Anyway, before duty called, I was looking at prep procedures for all different brands of paints. Since I am encapsulating and glassing, should I be looking at the 'fiberglass' prep? Surely I would not do what is listed for wood prep as I'm sure they mean bare wood. With a substrate of epoxy, I thing fiberglass is the closest thing listed.

Yes..., no..., maybe?

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

So, I'm in the garage glazing the bottom tonight when the tornado sirens go off--big twister SW of the city coming this way.

My first batch of epoxy (which I'm still working with newer batches) has more than 20 minutes on it. Dang it... Can you imagine a more inconvenient time to have to start moving things to the basement?

If I post later, you'll know we survived.

Take the truck. Take the Harley. Leave the boat (it's not insured yet).

_________________
Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

hopefully it misses you good luck

good luck Andy,let us know how you are as soon as you can

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream