Glen-L.com

Not to hijack Sawford's thread, but while we're on the subject...

I don't see myself getting rollers. I agree with Roberta's thoughts on that matter. Nonetheless, I will have to choose a paint system. I've heard great things about the Brightside product and was leaning that way. Anyone have any idea how much I need for an appropriate number of coats over my entire primered hull? I imagine it will be more than a quart.

I can't imagine my boat staying in the water more than a day. It will be wet overnight at the Gathering, but that's about it.

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

I have to tell you that I used Brightside paint on my restored bottom that I did on a 1966 Century mahogany boat.
Not a good experence. I know that it is for above the water line only. Used it anyway. Went on vacation and left the boat in the water for 8 days. Put on the trailer and went home. After parking it in the drive way I noticed that I saw something white on the bottom. After a closer look. The white I saw was the interlux barrer coat. The Bright side paint was just pelling off.
So be carefull how long you leave the boat in the water.
Jeff

The key to the paint choice is how long your boat is going to be in the water. I used Brightside over scuffed epoxy, no primer. You can apply your first coat over an epoxy coat that has just a bit of tack left in it and you will get a chemical bond. I didn't do that, just scuffed with some 120 and applied two coats. My trailer has rollers at the keel and bunks on the side. My paint is about two years old and the boat has been on an off the trailer a dozen times. The bottom looks as good as the day I painted it.

I believe I used 1 1/2 quarts for the two coats.

I have used Perfection and it is a great product but I found it harder to get to flow out into a "perfect" finish than I do with Epifanes. Perfection cures harder than spar varnish and in my opinion is harder to touch up. I have been able to touch up dings and scrapes with Epifanes and the results are invisible.

If you think you are going to leave the boat in the water for more than a day or two, I would go with Interlux's recommendation.

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My Webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/Buckeyesmith1/Gem#

The best part about a manual screwdriver is not needing to remember if you left it in reverse.

Completion is but one step in the process and not one bit more important than the others.

Picked up the Epoxy Primekote as recommended by interlux. It is a two part primer that gets mixed and then thinned 25%. Maybe over the weekend I'll get to give it a try! Not too much else going on. Just need to get a block of time to begin finishing the bottom. I did make the skeg the other day, attached it to the keel yesterday, and applied a second coat of epoxy to it today. That was pretty easy and took just a little time each day. Below are some photos of the sanded epoxy hull with the skeg attached.

Looking Good!!!

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Thanks....I decided to add one more coat of epoxy and then sand again. This afternoon I taped off the waterline (+/-) and applied the first cost of primer. I will need to sand w/ 220 between coats and then apply the second coat. The primer I used is a two part epoxy based primer. I was really surprised how thick the base material was. Once you mix it with the reactant, it is still really thick but then it is supposed to be thinned 20-25%. After adding the thinner, it rolled on and tipped easily. However, I may have thinned a little too much; I'll have to see how the second coat goes. If you zoom in on the photos, you can see how think the first coat went on. Since I have never used something like this, I have nothing to compare it too. Who knows, maybe I did it just right.

In order to mark the paint line, I read lots of peoples posts and looked at lots of examples. Since there were lots of variations out there, I didn't sweat it too much. A nice horizontal line across the transom (about 4 inches above the bottom - or below the top when upside down ), then stretched the tape from the transom line toward the front til it 'looked about right'. Tried to mirror that to the other side. Taping took about 25 minutes. Primer took about an hour. I had to lock myself in the garage to keep anyone from opening the door. It was a pretty windy day and I didn't want to kick up any dust. The only problem with that was the two part primer really stinks!

Looks like you're making progress. Be careful about using that stuff without adequate ventilation. You want to be around when it's finished.

Roberta

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Roberta
Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"

Thumbs up!

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My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Looking good! Right behind ya brother!

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Andy Garrett

"When all else fails, follow the instructions." -Dad

Two coats of very thin epoxy primekote and two coats of thinned prekote. Noticed a small area in the finish (about the size of a quarter) that didn't pass the QA/QC so I sanded it out and am repairing it. Need to sand this area one last time and then add a thinned coat of primer. After that, should be ready for the surface coats...then "the flip"....ooohhhhh

Looks like you are right on track for G6

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Applied 4 coats of brightside. Wouldn't say I am disappointed, but I was hoping it would look like the hood of a freshly waxed car. It doesn't look as nice as that. Maybe I am being too critical of my work. I just couldn't seem to keep those tiny specs of lint/dust/pollen off the finish. Maybe I am just looking at it too closely. I'll take some photos with the better camera soon, but here are some photos from my phone.

Looks so good it may blind the fish!

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My Webalbum: http://picasaweb.google.com/Buckeyesmith1/Gem#

The best part about a manual screwdriver is not needing to remember if you left it in reverse.

Completion is but one step in the process and not one bit more important than the others.

You old guys are funny.

Its really easy to get hung up on a perfect dust/lint free paint job when the boat is flipped over like this and its all you see. Once you flip it over its amazing how little all that matters because it will never be seen again. If the transom, sides and bow area are smooth, shiny and looking good its time to move on because that is all you will ever see once it is flipped.

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My Zip build log...
http://www.vupilot.blogspot.com
http://picasaweb.google.com/vupilot/Chr ... O0x7SvsQE#

"Nothing screams poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Great points Chris....plus the bottom will take abuse from trailers,grounding,etc!!

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream